Awlwood Problem

Wondering if anyone in our group has used Awlwood on their teak.
If yes, did you cover your scarf joints with the Awlwood?
We had our Sitka scarf joints and cap rail coated with 10 layers of Awlwood and within one year it is lifting off the scarf joints.
Any advice or suggestions welcome.

I have had it lift at joints also, but after three years. I am considering making a slight vee in the joint, so there is room for the paint to expand and contract.

Awlwood is very hard, so mine has not traveled down the wood more than 1/8".

Will advise.

What if you cut a small groove on the scarf and caulk the groove? The caulk should move with the joint and not crack out.

I'd like to follow this. I have considered Awlwood, but local suppliers I use don't stock it.

I have used Cabot's 'marine grade' polyurethane exterior gloss. It also is very hard. This is good for durability, but it did crack at joints.

My conclusion is that for joints to stay waterproof the varnish needs to have a degree of flexibility. Some loss of hardness is the tradeoff. Currently I am using Deks Olje #1 and #2, and it is working quite well on the joints. It does not have the same high gloss of awlwood or some other finishes, but it is still quite good.

For anyone interested, from bare wood (only necessary for areas that have been neglected for a long time) I use #1 and then 4 days later I start to put on 6 coats of gloss, 1 day apart. I light rub with #1 after 4th coat. Then at 6-9 month intervals I lightly rub with #1 and put 2 costs of #2 on. After a couple of years this does end up as a reasonably good gloss finish.

Marlow uses black caulk at joints.

I have an Awlwood factory contact. Let me see how they see it solved.

May take a week to get an answer.

Insequent,

I had the same problem. I called Awlwood factory and asked for my rep by area, and ask rep where to buy it.

He set me up with killer pricing, and also Awlgrip through a distributor.

I've "always" used black sealant at the joints. When I haven't...every type of finish I've used has started to fail there in way less time than it "should", i.e. captains, flagship, 2-part, awlwood.

I used Awlwood on my previous boat. The difficulty for me was the minimum temperature for application, but I was able to work around that. When we bought the current boat, the teak really needed attention and although I was happy with the results from the Awlwood, the heat issue made it a killer. I went with leTonquin and am very happy with the results. It’s not quite as glossy, but is much easier to repair.
Just my two cents.