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Originally Posted by tiltrider1
Maybe this will work for you
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That's a pretty slick fender. Might work, but I think I'd have to remove it while underway, as it would catch the water and flop around/come off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by koliver
A more permanent fix: A pair of teak stand off boards, vertically from the bottom of the swim grid to the waterline (at rest) spaced to wherever the dinghy dictates. I have seen several boats set up this way, mostly with teak swim grids, but there is no reason the same wont work for you.
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That could work to keep the dinghy from going under, but it could still rub on the edge of the platform, unless I added some anti-chafe.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simi 60
I'm guessing the edge is not tube?
Our duckboard is a s/s tube frame with teak slats.
The tube allows a continual length of old 1inch mooring rope to be wrapped around it.
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Correct, the edge is not a tube, just a fiberglass edge.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG CAT
Why not put a permanent ss bar on the underside of the swim step? It would probably only need to hang down 6 or 8 inches to keep it from getting under it.
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This could work potentially, and provide another way to tie off on too. Similar to the other suggestion of teak stand off boards, but I like SS better.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Nomad
Mooring whips mounted on the swim platform. Only the mounting brackets remain when not in use.
They keep the dinghy from hitting the platform even with decent swells/wakes. An no laying in the aft cabin listening to the dinghy bounce off the hull all night like it would if side tied. Plus once adjusted there is no fine tuning needed. Both my wife and my kids can unclip, go for a ride, and come back and re-secure the rib without having to worry about adjusting lines.
This setup works great for our Highfield CL360 with 20hp tiller Suzuki.
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That would work for storing it, but there is still the chance of sliding under the step or catching on it while docking. I have the Highfield CL310 with a 15HP Mercury EFI and love it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by hollywood8118
We tie up at the back corner of the boat and step onto the side of the swim step, this allows a grab spot at the corner of the boat to allow more stable ingress/egress, the damn dog likes it too as she steps almost level from the tube to the swim step.
We have a loop in the painter that is set so the transom of the dink is about 6" behind the platform. much easier as the side of the boat keeps the dinghy from getting under the platform.. run up next to the boat, drop the loop over the cleat get out. easy
HOLLYWOOD
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Hmmm interesting idea, that could potentially work.