Cross-posting from no answer

http://www.trawlerforum.com/t47570394/westmarine-antifouling-paint/

So we on this forum know so much about flag Etiquette.* But Nobody knows about the orgins of bottom paint?* Really?* Not one person can confirm my thought?* And if I'm right then anyone in the world can save 50 bucks / gallon?* Really?

I joined this forum to get good information, and not to hear a bunch of grouchy old farts argue about the proper way to fly flags.*

Maybe an "I don't know" might be nice, but with all the know-it-alls on this forum I thought I'd have at least one reply by now...


-- Edited by Egregious on Tuesday 7th of February 2012 09:42:02 PM

But Nobody knows about the orgins of bottom paint?

Origins?

Sure they used TAR , far cheaper today than bottom paint.

Also was an easy to eat shieting of wood , the Toredos would go in and eat the disposable surface.

Military use was copper sheeting , which still works , but the thousands of nails in the bottom might cause some GRP PROBLEMS WITH WATER INTRUSION.

GOOD LUCK WITH THE TAR!

Don't pretend to know it all , but with a modern plastic boat, the chance of using a historical product with success is slim.

Tho for many 10 hour a year boaters TAR might not be that bad.

Haven't followed West marine paints...try not to buy from them due to excessive pricing...plus they were using Petitt for their ablative paints which I have had forced on me by two yards (would not allow me to do my own work) and they were the two worst years of bottom paint in my 40+ years of boating.

Any reason you are asking whether they are "exactly" the same?* If they have nearly the same properties (type as in ablative, hard epoxy, etc) and have nearly the same copper content or similar contents on the can...they could be the same.

I have asked in the stores in the past...but the quality of responses from most associates left me skeptical about its accuracy.

Ha, he called you guys grouchy old farts, hahaha. I don't know about bottom paint because my rig isn't running yet. Maybe one day I'll get it running so I can go to the yard and paint her up. Doubt I'll be using tar though.

swampu wrote:
Ha, he called you guys grouchy old farts, hahaha. I don't know about bottom paint because my rig isn't running yet. Maybe one day I'll get it running so I can go to the yard and paint her up. Doubt I'll be using tar though.

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*Can't take any of these forums too seriously

He's probably just as old as I am and grouchy because no one responded to his other post....*

FF was the first reply so def is an old fart that came on to defend himself.* although I was trying to draw out Marin and he didn't bite.* I love all you guys and my sense of humor is pretty dry.* Bottom line is nobody knows, right?

Bottom line is nobody knows, right?

PRACTICAL SAILOR does great road tests on many brands of paint , over 1-2+ year test periods.

But its not free.

Try a subscription , I find it saves big time .

A trip to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-fouling_paint provides the history of antifouling paint. Here is an excerpt for the grumpy old farts that follow a link >

In the days of the clipper ships, sailing vessels suffered severely from the growth of barnacles and weed on the hull, called "fouling." Thin sheets of copper or Muntz metal were nailed onto the hull in an attempt to prevent marine growth. Fouling affected performance (and profitability) in two ways. First, the maximum speed of a ship decreases as its hull becomes fouled with marine growth. Second, fouling hampers a ship's ability to sail upwind.

The inventor of the anti-fouling paint was Captain Ferdinand Gravert, born in 1847 in Glückstadt (Schleswig-Holstein, Germany), who sold his chemical formula in 1913 at Taltal, Chile. Captain Alex Gravert has valuable documentation about this.

One famous example of the traditional use of metal sheathing is the clipper Cutty Sark, which is preserved as a museum ship in dry-dock at Greenwich in England. A modern version of this anti-fouling system, Coppercoat, uses an epoxy resin to permanently attach copper to the hull of the boat, helping to prevent marine growth for ten years or more.[

Regarding the similarity of West Marine PCA Gold and Pettit Ultima SR 40, I found this quote on http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-...-extra-csc-pettit-ultima-sr-40-sr-60-a-3.html

"From Pratical Sailor in regards to the Pettit SR-40

"the West Marine paints made by Pettit: PCA Gold (re-branded Ultima SR-40)"

Not sure if it's 100% true as Pettit advertises the SR-40 as a dual biocide paint with PTFE (Teflon) and WM only clams Irgarol as the biocide and no PTFE."

I believe if you buy your Pettit SR-40 mail order such as http://www.amazon.com/Pettit-Ultima-SR-40-Blue-Gallon/dp/B000N9T98M it is only $1.50 more per gallon than West Marine PCA Gold.

portager wrote:
I believe if you buy your Pettit SR-40 mail order such as http://www.amazon.com/Pettit-Ultima-SR-40-Blue-Gallon/dp/B000N9T98M it is only $1.50 more per gallon than West Marine PCA Gold.

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*So go into WM and bring the printed page from Atlantic Supply with their web site and*WM should match the price.* Atlantic Boat Supply is a bona fide company.*

Jamestown Distributors currently has Pettit Ultima SR-40 on sale for $164.00, and WestMarine Gold PCA is $179.* My belief is that Pettit makes the Westmarine paint, whether or not is is the same stuff that is branded Pettit.* However, why not buy the real thing on sale, so turns out I'm a dumb-ass.* I've already bought the paint, so I'll let you know how it holds up in a few years.* Thanks for the replies and comments.

Egregious wrote:
Jamestown Distributors currently has Pettit Ultima SR-40 on sale for $164.00, and WestMarine Gold PCA is $179.

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Unless you can walk into the Jamestown Distributors' store or they don't charge for shipping, the shipping cost for something heavy like paint can easily make up the difference if one is mail or inernet ordering it.