New anchor chain - before I wind it into the locker

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shufti

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2013
Messages
199
Location
Australia
Vessel Name
Wine Down
Vessel Make
Riviera 35' FB
Just replaced my anchor chain (~30metre galvanised 8mm short-link) with 50m of new chain. I've not brought the new chain into the anchor locker yet - have it all secured in the locker - but ran out of light before I could wind the length of it in. Just thought I'd ask if anyone has any suggestions re: anchor locker before I filled it with chain.

For example - I've seen/heard mentioned somewhere that putting a traffic cone at the 'bottom of the pile' prevents the chain tangling. Anyone else heard this - or use this technique?

With 30m of chain, the locker was [at most] 1/3 full. I"m antipiating 50m of chain will not even 1/2 fill the locker. Chain descends vertically from the horizontal chain gypsy into the anchor locker.


Thanks in advance!


edit -> oh - and whilst I'm at it... swivel or no swivel at the anchor shackle? Opinions?
 
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I have 150’ of 5/16” HT chain; it has never tangled coming out of the locker. I can picture a traffic cone somehow coming loose and actually causing a jam. I use back-to-back 3/8” forged alloy shackles with the same breaking strength as my chain at the terminal end.
 
I have just replaced my 35mtrs of 10mm chain with new and I found I had 2x1gal buckets of rust flakes and other detrious to clean out before fitting the 55mtrs back in. You may already have this but I also have fixed a line from the pad eye at the bottom of the locker to the end of the anchor chain so in an emergency the line is long enough to appear at the windlass and can be cut if necessary rather than having to go into the locker and attempt to release the anchor chain shackle at the pad eye. I like the new chain though.
 
Not sure if this is typical, but our pyramiding issue was on retrieve, not paying out. Someone had to open the hinged hatch in the fwd cabin and punch the bunch. Why not see if the added length creates a problem.
Swivels :eek:! There`s a thread running right now.
 
The traffic cone idea comes up when a certain chain locker design and a certain chain size and length combine to create a "castling" problem. You'll just have to load your chain and see.
 
On a prior boat, my chain got tangled from pounding into head seas for days on end. Although I finally got it untangled, I always put fenders in when under similar circumstances. I don't think you can get into trouble just by filling with new chain. I have 440' of chain and have never had a problem.
 
The way chains get tangled in the chain locker is when the locker is large enough to allow the chain to pile up on itself and then fall over. A tall narrow chain locker is less likely to have this problem.

The use of a traffic cone or other device in a large chain locker prevents the chain from piling up right in the middle where it can topple over on itself.
 
It all depends on your locker shape and size. You should be fine with 50 metres of 10 mm. You're better off with nothing. Try it and see.

Same with a swivel. You're better off with nothing unless you really need one.
 
I`ve wondered how members acquire the "traffic cone"? "It was just lying by the roadside Officer, abandoned, honestly,..."
 
Here you go Bruce. Wouldn't want to see you in a pickle!

https://www.bunnings.com.au/search/products?q=traffic cone&redirectFrom=Any

Shufti, AusCan has it right: don't add anything to the set-up that is not needed to fix an actual problem. You might want to put some paint (red?) on the end of the chain to warn you that it is just about all out. And do use some rope for the end of the chain to the pad-eye in the chain locker.
 
You might inspect to see if the base of the chain locker is above the water line , even when underway.

If it is you might put a pair of thru hulls to be able to wash the chain in place .

Mud free chain doesn't stink.
 
And, obviously, mark the new chain with paint and telltales to indicate how much you have out. I am sure you intend to do this, but I didn’t see it mentioned.
 
Before loading chain in our locker, previously only had line (8 plait) I got some of that rubber paint, shown on TV doing gutters and sprayed it inside of the anchor locker, I cleaned it out & let it dry before painting.

Seems to be holding up well.

As was already said, mark your chain in lengths you will understand to easily establish the scope you want.
 
I have periodically seen small traffic cones for sale at the big box stores and at some truck supply places. i would think any place that sells safety equipment, especially roadside safety, might be worth asking also.
 
Who thinks that a plastic, hollow traffic cone is not going to crush under the pressure of a significant length of chain?

I like to mark the "shots" of chain in whatever length I desire by winding large diameter copper wire salvaged from some old ROMEX around one side of the links. Choose your own pattern, but once done and the paint has flaked of and tell tales ripped off, you will forever be able to find the spots they occupied without having to roust out the entire length of chain.
 
The question of how to mark chain comes up periodically. It boils down to what works for your application. I mark mine every 20 ft. with colored ty-raps. R-O-Y-G-B easy to remember, I attach 2, leave the tails on. They're easy to see as they pop up traveling through the gypsy. With 2, when they're worn, usually one pops off and I know it's time to replace. It only takes a few seconds and there's enough advance notice to plan to have the ties in hand. We do a LOT of anchoring, the ty-raps work well for us.


Tried the painting, too messy, doesn't last, and it's a project that requires removal of the chain. We have 400 ft, I reverse it every couple years, have had the chain and anchor both regalvanized.
 
Hi, Steve. I tried the colored tie wraps a few times on the McMurry winch on the trawler, but they never lasted long. On this little bitty 1/4" chain on a Lewmar V700 windlass with its small clearances, tie wraps would spell disaster. Good thing it works well on your much larger rig. Nowadays, my rare anchoring consists of a lunch-hook afternoon down at the island with me paying out chain in a rather disultory manner to the point if looks of and the anchor catches. If I ever get serious about overnight anchoring or being absent while the boat is anchored, I will pay more attention to my copper wire wraps. :flowers:
 
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