Isenglass

Does anyone recommend a "Miracle" cleaner/polish for my eisenglass. My panels are smoky and I would like to get at least another year or so before I have to replace them. I have no idea how old this material is so I have no reference to the lifespan. Thanks for your help

Time to replace? I use this on my Strata Glass.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/imar--strataglass-protective-cleaner--9383217?recordNum=1

I've used Novus and Flitz in the past to revive some plastics. Lots of elbow grease involved.

I was turned onto Sumner 210 spray wax by a canvas fabricator in New Jersey when we were bringing our current boat home. The panels were very difficult to see through due to the age. I had tried Flitz and spent over 8 hours cleaning and polishing with Flitz. No appreciable difference. We had some stitching blow out and found this fabricator in Cape May that restitched the panels. He saw the poor condition of our panels and said try 210. The stuff is amazing. I did all of my panels in about 1.5 hours and the difference was simply amazing. I have since made all new canvas for the boat. I still use 210 to clean and protect the new panels. I just wash the panels to get the dirt off so that I don’t scratch the panels. Dry them and then spray on the 210. Polish it with a clean rag and then follow up with a bit more polishing with a dryclean rag, I use diapers and don’t use them for anything else. I can do the inside and outside of my flybridge and sundeck enclosures in about 1.5 hours. I buy it on Amazon and have no affiliation to the product, just love it.

We use 210 and have had great results

Comodave said:

I was turned onto Sumner 210 spray wax by a canvas fabricator in New Jersey when we were bringing our current boat home. The panels were very difficult to see through due to the age. I had tried Flitz and spent over 8 hours cleaning and polishing with Flitz. No appreciable difference. We had some stitching blow out and found this fabricator in Cape May that restitched the panels. He saw the poor condition of our panels and said try 210. The stuff is amazing. I did all of my panels in about 1.5 hours and the difference was simply amazing. I have since made all new canvas for the boat. I still use 210 to clean and protect the new panels. I just wash the panels to get the dirt off so that I don’t scratch the panels. Dry them and then spray on the 210. Polish it with a clean rag and then follow up with a bit more polishing with a dryclean rag, I use diapers and don’t use them for anything else. I can do the inside and outside of my flybridge and sundeck enclosures in about 1.5 hours. I buy it on Amazon and have no affiliation to the product, just love it.

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So I looked up the company and read about it. It would appear they do not recommend it on Strata Glass? Or is this just a marketing thing?

And I suppose the important questions where are what kind of 'isenglass' is it, and just what does he mean by 'smoky'?

wkearney99 said:

And I suppose the important questions where are what kind of 'isenglass' is it, and just what does he mean by 'smoky'?

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Strataglas comes in clear as well a a couple of tint levels including Light Smok and Dark Smoke. They also recommend use of a Stratoglas Cleaner / Treatment
(From Strataglas...)

"To properly clean and maintain your Strataglass products we recommend using Strataglass Protective Cleaner and Strataglass Protective Polish as described below. Both products are by IMAR and available through your Strataglass provider or favorite retail marine store. Use of non-authorized cleaners or protectants may damage the Strataglass and void the warranty.

NEVER:
Use Windex, Rain-X, Pledge, Plexus, Simple Green, Orpine or any other harsh cleaner to clean Strataglass products. This will void the warranty.
Use a car wax or any kind of wash and wax to protect Strataglass products. This will void the warranty.
Use cleaners, polishes, scratch removers, or any products intended for commercial grade vinyl or plastic. This may damage the Strataglass and void the warranty."

I use this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-...MIjeKjgonL4AIVgRh9Ch1ukw0yEAQYAiABEgLFl_D_BwE
$6.95 a bottle and actually works.

What warranty? Unless it fails within its first year, the warranty, if there even is one, won't do anything for you. If you are within the first year, the hassle of dealing with the warranty is going to be worse than just buying new, hence, what have you got to lose trying products that others have found useful?

Alaskan Sea-Duction said:

So I looked up the company and read about it. It would appear they do not recommend it on Strata Glass? Or is this just a marketing thing?

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Strata Glass is very specific on what products to use, mostly Imar. We have had SG on several boats. It can be a PITA to maintain IF you actually follow the directions. So we didn’t go with SG this time. I was tired of either following their directions or just not maintaining it. We love using 210 instead. It is so simple and easy to use that I really don’t mind maintaining the panels.

I use Meguiar's plastic cleaner too. Does a pretty good job, better in my opinion than the pricey West Marine stuff and I can get it at any auto parts store. After this discussion I might try the 210 airplane windshield stuff just for kicks. Now if I can just find a reliable product to waterproof my aging canvas (not crazy about 303, doesn't seem to last very long and I'm not in a harsh sun or salt environment lately).

Now if I can just find a reliable product to waterproof my aging canvas (not crazy about 303, doesn't seem to last very long and I'm not in a harsh sun or salt environment lately).[/QUOTE]


I’ve used 303 till last year and went with StarBrite, I won’t know till next year how well it works out. I remove enclosure panels and bimini tops to clean and waterproof in the early fall, the water beaded up really well with the StarBrite.

River Cruiser said:

Now if I can just find a reliable product to waterproof my aging canvas (not crazy about 303, doesn't seem to last very long and I'm not in a harsh sun or salt environment lately).

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I’ve used 303 till last year and went with StarBrite, I won’t know till next year how well it works out. I remove enclosure panels and bimini tops to clean and waterproof in the early fall, the water beaded up really well with the StarBrite.[/QUOTE]

Thompson's Water Seal worked quite well when I tried it on my sunbrella tonneau cover many years ago. That cover has been replaced a while ago now, so I don't recall how many years waterproofing I got from the TWS. The newer cover still holds puddles if I ever forget to put in the sticks, so I haven't had to reseal again.

As to waterproofing, I fixed that problem completely. I replaced the bimini top with a hardtop, no more leaks...

I have recently been using this product and have been very satisfied. Prior, I used the two part system. Many of the detailers here in SoCal use this product.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/doct...gger-spray-bottle--4693289#.XG4OUrpwS9w.email

River Cruiser said:

Now if I can just find a reliable product to waterproof my aging canvas (not crazy about 303, doesn't seem to last very long and I'm not in a harsh sun or salt environment lately).


"I’ve used 303 till last year and went with StarBrite, ".

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I had much the same results w 303 Fabric Guard. Finally connected w a tech rep that provided some very useful tips that made me a believer in 303 again...

Make sure you are using the 303 Fabric Guard meant for canvas & fabrics. There are different 303 products so be sure to check.

After cleaning & drying the canvas pick a HOT Sunny day and stretch the piece(s) out in full sun. Don't lay them on picnic table or other flat surface.
Warm the 303 by also leaving it in full sun (don't use it right out of basement or garage)
A light coat w fine spray applying w strokes in 1 direction will dry very quickly (don't brush or roll on or spray till saturated)
A second light coat 90* to first and let dry.
Done... reinstall.

The above can be done w biminis on the frame if you have safe access... just don't get over spray on walking surfaces as it is slippery.
Also don't get 303 fabric guard on plastic /vinyl windows it will make them brittle... use 303 protectant for vinyl & rubber

I had been doing my canvas in the garage on a spring day to avoid breezes out side... wrong on 2 counts... full sun and pick a HOT day.
After following above my results were significantly better and I had others in the marina asking what I was using.

Hope it helps!

I also fixed my problem... current boat has no canvas [emoji2]

Comodave said:

Strata Glass is very specific on what products to use, mostly Imar. We have had SG on several boats. It can be a PITA to maintain IF you actually follow the directions. So we didn’t go with SG this time. I was tired of either following their directions or just not maintaining it. We love using 210 instead. It is so simple and easy to use that I really don’t mind maintaining the panels.

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I agree it is a PITA. Takes about 8 hours to clean all of my glass. But after 6 years, it is still clear.

Alaskan Sea-Duction said:

I agree it is a PITA. Takes about 8 hours to clean all of my glass. But after 6 years, it is still clear.

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First thing I did with our boat was immediately take down all the canvas panels and stow them in the storage locker on shore. No clean up at all that way. I don't mind the canvas bimini top. But what I do hate is having to play the puzzle game of which panel goes where. Had enough of that with the old boat. The new one has the lower helm, we can run from there when it's cold/raining.

But, yes, if you care for them properly you can get a lot of years out of them. The key is knowing what material they're made from and avoiding anything other than the vendor's recommended products.

Bacchus said:

I had much the same results w 303 Fabric Guard. Finally connected w a tech rep that provided some very useful tips that made me a believer in 303 again...

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Thanks very much for the very helpful reply, but that's one more reason why I'm not thrilled with 303. I did all that, took off the large canvas panels, brought it all home, set up an elaborate sawhorse and plywood table production area in my driveway, laid it flat, rolled it on, waited for a hot sunny day, meticulously stayed away from the vinyl glass, let it dry -- and it still barely beads water by the end of the same season. Maybe I still did something wrong but I don't think so. Either way though, there's got to be something easier, something that's not such an ordeal or so finicky or time-consuming to apply. And no matter the weather forecast, I can never guarantee we won't get a passing thunderstorm over a two or three day period in the hot summer before it fully dries or cures. Just strikes me as way too much of a fussy application hassle just to get water to roll off canvas.

There is such a thing as RainX for plastic. I have no issues with it on my boat. After using SG on the Grand Banks for a bunch of years, I elected to replace all the aft sections of clear vinyl on this MS Pilot with some cheap stuff I bought on line. I took the canvas-surrounded panels to an upholsterer who sewed on the new stuff BEFORE he cut out the old brittled and broken stuff. Doing it that way kept the shape of the panels correct and they all five went back in place just fine. Yes, I could have taken it all to a marine canvas shop where they cut the old out by opening all the sewn seams and stick the new inside the overlapping canvas and ten times the cost, but hey, looking great several years later, and for a total cost of 300 bucks, how can you go wrong? I did take the two side panels you can see in the avatar to the marine canvas shop I had used for the enclosure on the trawler 20 years ago to have them done up "right," and 800 bucks later there I was. Thus the choice I made with the rest of the panels on theis Pilot. Ptting self on the back every day. )

kthoennes said:

.... laid it flat, rolled it on, waited for a hot sunny day,
I can never guarantee we won't get a passing thunderstorm over a two or three day period in the hot summer before it fully dries or cures. .

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Suspend vs lay on table & Fine spray best as it dries almost before you are done w/ each panel if its hot & sunny.
To each his own - what ever works for you - just trying to pass along some tips that helped me.
No longer have the hassle myself - hardtop & doors

I have always had good success with 303. However I do put it on very heavy. On one boat I had a sunbrella permanent cover over the sundeck. I didn’t want to remove it to 303 it so I cleaned it using a long pole with a brush on it. Then to coat it with 303 I used a paint roller on a long pole and rolled it on just like painting a house. It worked very well.

I use Imar. it comes in a cleaner/protector and they also have a polish. Works really good.

Drago, way back when we had a 32 westsail, a friend told us to use "lemon pledge furnature polish" on our dodger...when we sold the boat 9 yrs later, the dodger was like new...clyde

As opposed to some of the comments, I have used Plexus on my strataglass panels for over 3 years, and it keeps the panels crystal clear. West Marine now stocks a product similar to Plexus, which works just as well. The key is to use it often before the panels get too dirty

Jack
2010 Leopard 38 catamaran
New Orleans