Chain Anchor Rode

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

Chris71

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2019
Messages
22
Location
United States
My boat is a Pursuit 365I and it comes with 300 feet of 5/8 braid and 15 feet of 5/16 chain. I am soloing to the Bahamas and have seen first hand the severing of an anchor line and a boat loose in the night. I am thinking about replacing the 15 feet with 60 feet of chain realizing that in the Abacos most anchoring depths are usually no more than 12 feet. Your thoughts
 
I would use more chain than 60'. Go with 100'. If you want to anchor with all chain in 12' of water in a boat with the bow 4' above he water that means it takes 6 x(12+4) = 96' of chain for a 6:1 scope.


David
 
I'll ditto David's sentiments. We've anchored a LOT in the Bahamas, our rode is 400 ft of 3/8" chain. I'd want all chain in the Bahamas, we've had experiences where the chain snags on rock outcrops with reversing currents. I wouldn't want that happening with a nylon rode. I'm sure there are plenty of cruisers who have anchored in the Bahamas with a nylon rode without incident, but I'm not one of them. :)
 
You will need some sort of bridle if you are going with all chain.
 
Having gone aboard two boats that had worn through their rope anchor line I support the idea of more chain. 100 ft would be the easiest to use as you would be using the gypsy to power up the anchor chain and not having to switch midstream from the capstan.

Tides and shifting winds can cause an anchor line to wrap around coral or debris and then increased wind can cause the anchor line to chafe. This is what happened to both boats I, along with others, had to board and reanchor to save them from grounding.
In both cases the owners were at the beach when the anchor line cut through.
 
I have 120 ft of chain on my 34 (37 LOA) and 240 ft of 5/8 Brait. I anchor 3-6 times per fishing day in ~30-35 ft and almost always use just the chain portion. At an overnight anchorage, I've got the extra rode for a 'proper' 5:1 or better scope.

It's nice to have choices.
 
A few years ago, we were anchored on vacation. We came back to the boat from shore. Very shortly after arriving a dinghy came up to us from a neighboring boat. He advised us that while we were gone, a center console had fouled their prop in our anchor line (Nylon line). The operator managed to stop and free the wrapped line from her prop. Then she simply left. No note.

I checked the line and found the area that was wrapped. I found a small nick in the line. At the time I had a lot of scope out because it had been blowing around 25-30 mph for the previous few days. (I suspect the amount of scope is what caused half of the problem, as the operator didn't expect the line to be some close to the surface that far away from the boat. But then again, if she looked at the angle of the road, it could have been easily deduced). I shorten scope so the nick was in the anchor locker.

I went to 130 feet of chain and about 150 of line. The line never sees water.
 
I wouldn't go to the Bahamas with anything but all chain rode. I like to sleep at night.
 
I/m on the west coast, so all chain.

BTW Chris Welcome to TF
 
On our previous boat where we cruised the west coast of BC, we had 150' chain and 250' brait. Rarely did we see the brait but it was nice to know we had the extra if needed. An immeasurable help was the Maxwell HRC10-8 windlass, that seamlessly transitioned from chain to brait and vice versa.
 
I am all chain also. But have you considered attaching a float of some sort attached to the line to keep it off the bottom where it can chafe?
 
All chain if the boat can safety hold that weight. On my small boat I switched to poly line. Floating. Keeps it off the sharp limestone and never had a problem. But honestly I never overnight anchored and it was a very specific situation.
 
All chain if the boat can safety hold that weight. On my small boat I switched to poly line. Floating. Keeps it off the sharp limestone and never had a problem. But honestly I never overnight anchored and it was a very specific situation.

I've used a small poly ball on the rode fixed twice the depth up the rode from the chain fastened with a tuck and a rolling hitch, saves the weight and expense of chain on smaller boats. Same as your idea with poly but poly doesn't take shock and stretch like nylon.
 
I've used a small poly ball on the rode fixed twice the depth up the rode from the chain fastened with a tuck and a rolling hitch, saves the weight and expense of chain on smaller boats. Same as your idea with poly but poly doesn't take shock and stretch like nylon.

Good idea. I don't think it's good for nylon anchor rode to touch bottom. When I snorkel in the limestone beds (we call them the "potato fields" off the Pearl) all I see are nylon lines (and fishing lines) criss-crossing everywhere.

The OP in the Bahamas, with a good length of chain on the bottom, can shorten scope so the nylon isn't extensively laying aground. Or use floats like you suggest. Best is to try to avoid coral areas and not damage them in the first place of course.

Oh BTW, I noticed when I was on a charter in Ha Long Bay (north Vietnam) that most of the big boats there were using floating plait for anchor rodes. Similar to a poly/polyester blend. They are basically neutral, or float a few percent. So they don't float enough to be ensnared by another boat passing by (like my polyethylene line does) but they keep off the bottom. The stretch is not as great as nylon for shock absorption, but still isn't bad. UV resistance is mediocre. Anyway, I think it's a good compromise.
 
Chain with Nylon rode bridal to smothout tugging & surging

I have a Full Displacement Kadey-Krogen 42 -- Heavyer boat than yours & I am on the west coast.

2 anchors on bow --- I have all chain on both. 275 feet chain on each side -- port side is 3/8" HT & Starboard is 5/16" HT.

---- I run dual, but different style anchors on the bow -- different types for different holding ground.
I run one anchor as a Bruce on port side & the other is an Ultra Plough on Starboard side.

On Chain Bitter end is an additional 50 feet of 5/8 spliced to end link of chain & secured to the boat in chain locker, just in case I need to cut it & run in storm conditions.

if your concerned about the weight in the bow, go with G-4 High Test in a smaller chain link size.

Nylon rode is fine for a lunch hook & as a snubbing bridal.

However, Not recommended for overnight sleeping. :eek: Particularly in the area of the Bahamas where your going. :banghead:

All chain with a bridal of nylon rode to smooth out the tugging & surging will be well worth the investment. :D

you won't regret it. :thumb:

Have fun.

Alfa Mike :thumb:
 
Last edited:
All chain for me. I have seen several incidents where nylon Rodewas cut, either intentionally or by accident. A lot tougher to cut a chain Rode
 
Good idea. I don't think it's good for nylon anchor rode to touch bottom. When I snorkel in the limestone beds (we call them the "potato fields" off the Pearl) all I see are nylon lines (and fishing lines) criss-crossing everywhere.

The OP in the Bahamas, with a good length of chain on the bottom, can shorten scope so the nylon isn't extensively laying aground. Or use floats like you suggest. Best is to try to avoid coral areas and not damage them in the first place of course.

Oh BTW, I noticed when I was on a charter in Ha Long Bay (north Vietnam) that most of the big boats there were using floating plait for anchor rodes. Similar to a poly/polyester blend. They are basically neutral, or float a few percent. So they don't float enough to be ensnared by another boat passing by (like my polyethylene line does) but they keep off the bottom. The stretch is not as great as nylon for shock absorption, but still isn't bad. UV resistance is mediocre. Anyway, I think it's a good compromise.

I'm thinking of using trawl floats for deeper water as they're made to not crush at depth, if you put a poly ball or foam float too deep they squish. I have twisted nylon for the fiber part of my rode so I plan to just short spice a short length of line at the appropriate place to attach a float.
 
I’ve got a small trawler and never had more than a few feet of chain and never experienced dragging ... that I know of.

But that’s in the PNW with mostly all mud bottoms. I’ve uesd various anchors too and they all held. This notion of needing a super big anchor of the latest high performance design w “all chain rode” has merrit but is largely oversold. Chapman’s book (often called the boaters bible) says “a few feetof chain”. I’ve always thought of chain as something to hold the shank down for setting.

However if I was to fit out another trawler I’d employ up to 100’ of chain w a windlass to match and a big old anchor or a small HHP anchor. None are perfect but all are good.
 
Last edited:
Jumping in late on this conversation but adding my two cents. In a previous 30’ boat we had 30’ of chain and 150’ of rode and we dragged anchor multiple times in the middle of the night. In the end we decided to only anchor during the day with that boat. Our last boat was a 45’ with 200’ of chain and I added another 100’ of rode. We never had issues with dragging as long as we had enough scope out.

We are located in the Pacific Northwest and most of our anchoring is done in the San Juan islands and up in Desolation Sound. Our new boat has all chain and I believe we have either 350’ or 400’ - still to be determined since the boat is new to us. More chain equals better hold and better peace of mind at night.

Sandy
 
Jumping in late on this conversation but adding my two cents. In a previous 30’ boat we had 30’ of chain and 150’ of rode and we dragged anchor multiple times in the middle of the night. In the end we decided to only anchor during the day with that boat. Our last boat was a 45’ with 200’ of chain and I added another 100’ of rode. We never had issues with dragging as long as we had enough scope out.

We are located in the Pacific Northwest and most of our anchoring is done in the San Juan islands and up in Desolation Sound. Our new boat has all chain and I believe we have either 350’ or 400’ - still to be determined since the boat is new to us. More chain equals better hold and better peace of mind at night.

Sandy

We had a 30 foot sailboat for over 25 years anchoring most times when away. And my rode was similar to what you described. Our anchor of choice back then was a 33 pound Bruce which in later years I upgraded to a 44 pound Bruce. The reliable Bruce became unreliable as our harbors filled with ell grass. One would think his anchor was well set until a sufficient strain was applied to the rode at which time the anchor would pull away along with upwards to 50 plus pounds of ocean bottom.

It is an unusual harbor around here where on can enjoy a scope of 5, sometime as low as 3. Our harbors are full most times during summer months
 
We have a very heavy 49' Alaskan with 400' of 1/2" HT chain & 100' of 1" nylon rode on the boat end. The reason for the 1" rode is if you ever snag the 105 lb. claw anchor in a storm, and have to get loose for whatever reason the nylon could be cut to free the ship. We keep 2 anchors on the bow rigged the same way. So if we had to loose one we still have a backup.
We once rode out a GALE in the Gulf of Mexico for two days, but the anchor held fast without any damage to the boat. The CG reported 12' seas so it was better to ride it out than motor through. We did at times put both engines at 750 RPM in forward to relive the strain on the bridle.


Captain F. Lee
USCG 100 Ton Master
Over 40 years at sea.
 
Captain Lee,
That’s a very good point that’s most often overlooked here on TF.

With an anchor alarm one can always (almost always) unload the rode w an engine in gear. Most on TF look for ground tackle that is 100% guaranteed to hold the boat in any weather. Dragging is 100% undesirable.

Don’t agree.
There are numerous kinds of dragging. The most commonly conceived dragging is a slowly moving anchor that remains submerged. You can have an anchor that breaks out and resets every 8’ and every 5 minutes. In sticky mud yesterday I had an anchor that plugged completely w mud and hence offered almost no resistance at all. And there’s many other types of dragging.

And in any demanding marine situation there usually are things that can be done to improve the situation making things not quite so bad .. or perhaps there is a basic solution. Your’s of applying a bit of fwd thrust w the engine is something that can almost always be done. And there are always variables. In this case you must have enough holding power in the ground tackle so you can wait until you need more than enough thrust so you’re not having to put-er in gear and out every few seconds. If your gear has clutches it may not like that. Most here on TF do.

I often wonder how captains manage big ships that have small anchors w only fair holding power (like a Navy anchor) with ships that make the anchor look tiny.
 
"I often wonder how captains manage big ships that have small anchors w only fair holding power (like a Navy anchor) with ships that make the anchor look tiny."


They have standing deck watches , so if dragging is detected they are ready to respond.
 
Plus, they routinely have their engines on line for heavy weather...in fact the USCG COTP often orders all vessels in the anchorage to do so.


Anchoring "ships" is a WAYYYY different mentality than anchoring "boats" from both my readings and experiences.
 
There are boats in the fifty foot range that use the Navy anchor. And I assume they use it much like we use our “yacht” anchors. But w ships the size of the anchor compared to the size of the vessel anchored still amazes me.
 
Back
Top Bottom