Need help fixing pulpit

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Ocean1979

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2018
Messages
6
Location
United states
Hello everyone. We had some issues in the fall and hit a nasty current under a bridge and hit the pulpit on out 79 ocean yachts trawler. It's bent slightly about 1/2 inch and the bottom panel detached. I am located in Rhode island. Just looking for any advice for fixing it myself. Thank you for any information
 
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I would start with some pictures.
 
Most boat yards have a welder on staff or use a subcontractor with the capability to repair your pulpit. It sounds like it is both bent and the stanchion base either pulled out of the fiberglass deck or the weld failed and it broke loose. The latter is definitely a welding job.


Boat yard guys know how to finish the weld so it looks like new. A regular welder won't likely do that, although it might be just as strong.



David
 
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Hit the bridge again but from the other direction? Sorry, I couldn’t help my self.
 
There are usually fabricators of railings, stanchions, masts, dinghy hangers and so on that either work out of boatyards or nearby that specialize in SS fabrication and repair.
Yellow pages and as mentioned asking at the local boatyard should get a few names.

I also agree that a couple photos might help narrow the advice down.
 
Stainless is the easiest metal to weld and with an electric polisher the results are easy to attain. You might be able to just remove it and bend it back, then reinstall it with bevelling the holes and rebedding with butyl tape. Don’t leave it, water will rot the deck core very quickly, especially fresh water.
 
Interestingly, I just fixed a similar problem this past weekend. My pulpit rail was bent in about 4"in a curve along a 4' length of 7/8" ss rail (don't ask.) I talked to my metal guy who advised against my idea of using heat and C-clamps pulling against a straight edge board. He said that instead we needed to "push" the rail out using pressure. He fabricated a simple tool (sorry no pics.) Imagine a 5' long piece of 2' box steel, with "strap hooks" at each end to hang the device of the rail. On the box steel, he mounted a small hydraulic jack that would slide along the box. We then hung the device and started pumping the jack head out at various places along the bent area, obviously starting at the apex of the bend then working out toward the ends of the bend. Within 20 minutes, we managed to "push the bend out," moving the jack along about 10 times. I had unscrewed the base of the nearest stantion, working it by hand back into alignment. Now the rail is very, very close to perfect. Total cost: $150
 
Hawkeye`s method sounds like a homemade version of a hydraulic Porto Power,used by auto body repairers to straighten frames etc.
Hope the OP gets good advice once the pics show what needs doing.
 
Thank you all for your input I think I have attached a few pictures. I was thinking of trying to make something out of a car jack to lift it back up to where it needs to go and somehow angle it to bring it back the inch or so to the port side. Sadly where I am docked has no amenaties offered. Asked around for different advice and feel some people are just trying to rip us off.

To the person who said hit the bridge in the other direction thank you for the good laugh. It's unavoidable as you can see we are docked right next to it.
 
Hydraulic jacks......I guess some are better than others. I tried once to use a jack with it mounted horizontally instead of vertical. It would not pump the piston. When they work, they can be awesome
 
Thank you for your input. Hoping to be able to use a winch type system to pull it back and the jack to push it up straight. Hoping to be able to fabricate something ourselves so it won't cost a fortune.
 
Hawkeye said:
Interestingly, I just fixed a similar problem this past weekend. My pulpit rail was bent in about 4"in a curve along a 4' length of 7/8" ss rail (don't ask.) I talked to my metal guy who advised against my idea of using heat and C-clamps pulling against a straight edge board. He said that instead we needed to "push" the rail out using pressure. He fabricated a simple tool (sorry no pics.) Imagine a 5' long piece of 2' box steel, with "strap hooks" at each end to hang the device of the rail. On the box steel, he mounted a small hydraulic jack that would slide along the box. We then hung the device and started pumping the jack head out at various places along the bent area, obviously starting at the apex of the bend then working out toward the ends of the bend. Within 20 minutes, we managed to "push the bend out," moving the jack along about 10 times. I had unscrewed the base of the nearest stantion, working it by hand back into alignment. Now the rail is very, very close to perfect. Total cost: $150
Click to expand...

How about a sketch or a link, Ted. I'm having a hard time picturing this but love the idea.
 
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