shower sump goop cleaner

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Chris71

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What do you use or make to remove the goop from the shower sump pan. My autoswitch turned the pump for the pan on and there was no water but a good goop covering, 1/4 inch everywhere. I am think a 50% bleach mix and let stand and pump. I have never used the shower in the 3 months I have owned the boat. Thoughts and experience? Thank you
 
I would not use bleach. Try KO. You will probably still have to scrub it out to get it clean and then periodically use a cleaner such as KO.
 
We shower on Hobo daily. Monthly we clean the shower sump. I haven’t found anything that eliminates the “goop”. Liquid soap reduces it but we still have to clean it.
 
Larry M said:
We shower on Hobo daily. Monthly we clean the shower sump. I haven’t found anything that eliminates the “goop”. Liquid soap reduces it but we still have to clean it.
Click to expand...



Same here. We use liquid soap. Pour biotal down drains regularly but still have to clean out the sump box every 4-6 weeks to scoop out the gray goop.
 
You haven’t met or heard of Peggie Hall yet? The HeadMistress will help you out. For myself- NO bleach- it’s too caustic! I use either KO or white vinegar followed by fresh waster weekly. BAN bar soaps and use liquid only.
 
[FONT=&quot]K.O. is not a cleaner, Dave...[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Raritan only markets their "C.P. Cleans Potties" as a bowl cleaner--and it is an excellent one. But it's also the best sump and drain cleaner on the planet. C.P. is a bio-enzymatic cleaner that not only destroys odor on contact, but the enzymes in it "eat" hair, soap scum, body oils, galley grease and all the stuff that clogs sumps and drains and makes 'em stinky. All you need to is put 2-3 oz down the shower drain when it can stand at least overnight...the enzymes need time to work. Then flush clean water through the sump. You can even let it remain in the sump for weeks, 'cuz although the enzymes exhaust themselves in 24 hours, there's nothing in C.P. that can harm anything. To clean sink drains, close the seacock, then put about an ounce of C.P down the drain and fill the drain with water--again when it can stand at least overnight. That's it. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]The above are instructions for MAINTAINING the sump. In your situation, I'd put an inch of water--no more--in the sump along with C.P. It's also likely to take more more than one application. 'Cuz although you CAN leave it in the sump indefinitely, it quits working after 24 hours.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]--Peggie[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
 
Last edited:
HeadMistress said:
[FONT=&quot]K.O. is not a cleaner, Dave...[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Raritan only markets their "C.P. Cleans Potties" as a bowl cleaner--and it is an excellent one. But it's also the best sump and drain cleaner on the planet. C.P. is a bio-enzymatic cleaner that not only destroys odor on contact, but the enzymes in it "eat" hair, soap scum, body oils, galley grease and all the stuff that clogs sumps and drains and makes 'em stinky. All you need to is put 2-3 oz down the shower drain when it can stand at least overnight...the enzymes need time to work. Then flush clean water through the sump. You can even let it remain in the sump for weeks, 'cuz although the enzymes exhaust themselves in 24 hours, there's nothing in C.P. that can harm anything. To clean sink drains, close the seacock, then put about an ounce of C.P down the drain and fill the drain with water--again when it can stand at least overnight. That's it. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]The above are instructions for MAINTAINING the sump. In your situation, I'd put an inch of water--no more--in the sump along with C.P. It's also likely to take more more than one application. 'Cuz although you CAN leave it in the sump indefinitely, it quits working after 24 hours.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]--Peggie[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
Click to expand...



Peggy- can I just substitute CP for the biotal I currently use and use it for everything? Or are they complimentary?
 
I’ve squirt a bit of “clean potties” in my shower drain once every 2 weeks.
After 2 years, still no stink coming from the sump. It really does a great job of eliminating the need to open the sump and hand clean. I’m sure at some point I’ll need to do that, buy hey, once less maintenance item is a very good thing!
 
tozz said:
Peggy- can I just substitute CP for the biotal I currently use and use it for everything? Or are they complimentary?
Click to expand...


I can't answer that without knowing what you're using now.


--Peggie
 
I date a long hair lady so I clean the sump box weekly. I wipe the box down with paper towels using hot water to soften everything. I rinse the box with lots of hot water. The only problem is, when I shut the pump off to clean the box is, sometimes I forget to turn it back on. That means, the bilge get soapy and I have to clean that too. LOL
 
Distilled white vinegar. Pour a bunch in to clear it out the first time, put some down the drain once a month (assuming live-aboard).
 
My grey water sump bilge pump could suck start a Harley Davidson, the issue is a sticking Rule flipper switch. I hate those switches.
Hoping a magic potion will stop it sticking,disinclined to bless the grey tank with a Johnson Ultra.
 
tozz said:
Biotal.

https://www.marinesan.com/product-p/biotal.htm
Click to expand...

The answer to your question is, no. It's nothing like Raritan C.P. For one thing, it's a chemical product that has a some added bacteria cultures...C.P. is 100% bio-active...it's a grease and sludge "eater"...it won't do a thing for mineral buildup, which is Biotel's primary use--to out/prevent mineral buildup in hoses and other parts of a sanitation system...its a competitor to Sew Clean Sew Clean Reviews from other boat owner who've tried biotal to dissolve a blockage in a toilet discharge line don't rate it very highly for that. I found it a bit telling that MarineSan is advertising a special: a biotal and NoFlex combo.

I found a warning that Biotal contains ingredients consider to be a carcinogen in California, but since everything seems to be a carcinogen in CAL, I took that with a grain of salt. But fwiw, no such warning exists for C.P.

Btw...C.P. is part of the product line my own company developed and that I sold to Raritan in 1999...which may help to explain why I'm intimately acquainted with it. I no longer have ANY vested interest in it nor compensation for recommending it.

--Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein
 
BruceK said:
My grey water sump bilge pump could suck start a Harley Davidson, the issue is a sticking Rule flipper switch. I hate those switches.
Hoping a magic potion will stop it sticking,disinclined to bless the grey tank with a Johnson Ultra.
Click to expand...

I used Ultra Safety Systems Pumpswitches in our shower sumps (this is a different product from the Johnson Ultra) and, coupled with white vinegar, away went those problems. The sumps got a lot of use, since we lived aboard full time, and for years, typically away from the dock.
 
caltexflanc said:
Distilled white vinegar. Pour a bunch in to clear it out the first time, put some down the drain once a month (assuming live-aboard).
Click to expand...


Distilled white vinegar is great for preventing scale other mineral buildup, but doesn't do that well against soap scum, body oils, and all the other "organic" (non-mineral) stuff that comes off you to go down the shower drain and causes shower sumps to stink. For that, there's nothing better--as good?--as C.P. IMO.


--Peggie
 
HeadMistress said:
The answer to your question is, no. It's nothing like Raritan C.P. For one thing, it's a chemical product that has a some added bacteria cultures...C.P. is 100% bio-active...it's a grease and sludge "eater"...it won't do a thing for mineral buildup, which is Biotel's primary use--to out/prevent mineral buildup in hoses and other parts of a sanitation system...its a competitor to Sew Clean Sew Clean Reviews from other boat owner who've tried biotal to dissolve a blockage in a toilet discharge line don't rate it very highly for that. I found it a bit telling that MarineSan is advertising a special: a biotal and NoFlex combo.

I found a warning that Biotal contains ingredients consider to be a carcinogen in California, but since everything seems to be a carcinogen in CAL, I took that with a grain of salt. But fwiw, no such warning exists for C.P.

Btw...C.P. is part of the product line my own company developed and that I sold to Raritan in 1999...which may help to explain why I'm intimately acquainted with it. I no longer have ANY vested interest in it nor compensation for recommending it.

--Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein
Click to expand...


Thanks for the detailed analysis. I'll keep CP on the boat!
 
HeadMistress said:
[FONT=&quot]K.O. is not a cleaner, Dave...[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Raritan only markets their "C.P. Cleans Potties" as a bowl cleaner--and it is an excellent one. But it's also the best sump and drain cleaner on the planet. C.P. is a bio-enzymatic cleaner that not only destroys odor on contact, but the enzymes in it "eat" hair, soap scum, body oils, galley grease and all the stuff that clogs sumps and drains and makes 'em stinky. All you need to is put 2-3 oz down the shower drain when it can stand at least overnight...the enzymes need time to work. Then flush clean water through the sump. You can even let it remain in the sump for weeks, 'cuz although the enzymes exhaust themselves in 24 hours, there's nothing in C.P. that can harm anything. To clean sink drains, close the seacock, then put about an ounce of C.P down the drain and fill the drain with water--again when it can stand at least overnight. That's it. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]The above are instructions for MAINTAINING the sump. In your situation, I'd put an inch of water--no more--in the sump along with C.P. It's also likely to take more more than one application. 'Cuz although you CAN leave it in the sump indefinitely, it quits working after 24 hours.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]--Peggie[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
Click to expand...

@HeadMistress can you please share more details on how the enzymes "eat" hair and how CP works to "eat" hair? I've spent approximately $100 on bottles of CP Cleaner just this year and have not seen the results I was expecting. I placed a human hair and dog hair into a cup with CP cleaner and in 24+ hours, the hairs are still fully intact. Other than maybe more effectively killing odor I do not see much benefit in this product and something less expensive can probably be used with similar results. Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Head Mistress, my local West Marine does not carry it.

Gotts love a long haired Asian lady. They can fill up the shower box strainer in less than a week but, she's worth it. Apparently, she is the only woman who can tolerate me.
 
This is the kind of information...

mystery said:
@HeadMistress can you please share more details on how the enzymes "eat" hair and how CP works to "eat" hair? I've spent approximately $100 on bottles of CP Cleaner just this year and have not seen the results I was expecting. I placed a human hair and dog hair into a cup with CP cleaner and in 24+ hours, the hairs are still fully intact. Other than maybe more effectively killing odor I do not see much benefit in this product and something less expensive can probably be used with similar results. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I find useful. Nothing like documented testing. Good job and thanks for posting.

Gordon
 
Gordon J said:
I find useful. Nothing like documented testing. Good job and thanks for posting.

Gordon
Click to expand...

I also did an experiment with a second bottle, purchased at a different time, from different location, different batch, to help rule out the first bottle being defective. I also had the experience of the four bottles before not "eating" hair.
 
I heard back from Raritan engineering that the product does not "eat" hair. They said it never has. Very interesting...
 
OldDan1943 said:
Head Mistress, my local West Marine does not carry it.

Gotts love a long haired Asian lady. They can fill up the shower box strainer in less than a week but, she's worth it. Apparently, she is the only woman who can tolerate me.
Click to expand...

Okay, found a bottle at my next West Marine. How many oz to put into a 50 gallon holding tank and how long to let it sit before a pump out?
With 2 on board, I pump once a week.
 
OldDan1943 said:
Okay, found a bottle at my next West Marine. How many oz to put into a 50 gallon holding tank and how long to let it sit before a pump out? With 2 on board, I pump once a week.
Click to expand...

None. C.P is not a tank product and neither I nor anyone else has ever claimed that it is. C.P. s bio-enzymatic toilet bowl cleaner that also happens to be an outstanding sump and drain cleaner. So I wouldn't put any into your holding tank.

I also did an experiment with a second bottle, purchased at a different time, from different location, different batch, to help rule out the first bottle being defective. I also had the experience of the four bottles before not "eating" hair.

You don't say how you used it, but as a sump cleaner you should only have needed 2-3 ounces each time... so 4 22 oz bottles should have been at least 66 "doses" that you're claiming didn't do whatever it was you expected it to do. There's an old saying, "Doing the same thing over and over, expecting a different result each time is one type of insanity." I'd have quit after the first bottle didn't work. And most people for whom hair in a sump or drain is that big a problem would put a screen over the drain to keep it out of the sump.

Most people would expressed their concern privately to me via a PM or an email...that you chose to challenge me here leaves me wondering if you had any purpose in doing so other than attempt to discredit me.

--Peggie
 
Head Mistress, "None. C.P is not a tank product and neither I nor anyone else has ever claimed that it is. C.P. s bio-enzymatic toilet bowl cleaner that also happens to be an outstanding sump and drain cleaner. So I wouldn't put any into your holding tank. "

It is impossible to clean the toilet bowl without pumping it into the holding tank.

I was hoping for a product that would attack the sludge in the sanitary tank.
Oh well, cleaning the shower/sink box is good enough.
 
Last edited:
HeadMistress said:
I also did an experiment with a second bottle, purchased at a different time, from different location, different batch, to help rule out the first bottle being defective. I also had the experience of the four bottles before not "eating" hair.

You don't say how you used it, but as a sump cleaner you should only have needed 2-3 ounces each time... so 4 22 oz bottles should have been at least 66 "doses" that you're claiming didn't do whatever it was you expected it to do. There's an old saying, "Doing the same thing over and over, expecting a different result each time is one type of insanity." I'd have quit after the first bottle didn't work. And most people for whom hair in a sump or drain is that big a problem would put a screen over the drain to keep it out of the sump.

Most people would expressed their concern privately to me via a PM or an email...that you chose to challenge me here leaves me wondering if you had any purpose in doing so other than attempt to discredit me.

--Peggie
Click to expand...

Peggie,

I thought CP would be a great product primarily because you have been saying it "eats" hair. I used 4 bottles over 6 months on the boat in drains and toilets. I have nine drains and two toilets I used it on. I have two bottles remaining. After noticing it did nothing to hair, I conducted an experiment. I never said the hair was in the sump. I was concerned some might be getting past the screens/baskets I installed in my sinks and shower drains. I figured it would be good to let it sit in the drains and sump. I currently have no draining issues. I had a draining issue which was tied to an air vent being blocked on the sump which I resolved by fixing the air vent (at first I thought the drains might be blocked hence my purchase of CP). I actually do have one drain I am pretty sure dog hair is clogged on the exterior because it did not have a screen on it. I was hopeful your product would "eat" the hair and clear the blockage.

I didn't know I had to PM you with my concerns. This is an internet forum. You still have not explained your claim that the product "eats" hair. Raritan who I believe acquired the formula/product from you says it definitely does not and never has been able to "eat" hair. I do question what I spent $100 on, a chemical scent? I believe there are several other odor eating cleaners with enzymes that are a fraction of the cost of CP. Pet cleaners with enzymes come to mind.

If you can please explain the product's hair "eating" abilities it would be much appreciated.

Thank you
 
Last edited:
OldDan1943 said:
Head Mistress, "None. C.P is not a tank product and neither I nor anyone else has ever claimed that it is. C.P. s bio-enzymatic toilet bowl cleaner that also happens to be an outstanding sump and drain cleaner. So I wouldn't put any into your holding tank. "

It is impossible to clean the toilet bowl without pumping it into the holding tank.

I was hoping for a product that would attack the sludge in the sanitary tank.
Oh well, cleaning the shower/sink box is good enough.
Click to expand...

The way I see people handle sludge at the bottom of the holding tank is to shoot water from a hose into their holding tank. Loosen it up, pump out, and do it again. If you do it regularly, it should be easier moving forward.
 
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