Sealant for hose adapter tailpipes

I was wondering what would be the recommended sealant to use on our raw water intake hose adapter tailpipes, along with double hose clamps. Long story but we are replacing our forespar strainers with Arctic steel strainers, and I am replacing all the 1.5 inch raw water hose as well. We have marelon thru hulls, all the Arctic Steel parts are stainless steel. I was thinking something along the lines of Rectorseal #5 would be fine

Thanks
Eric

If I'm reading your post correctly, you are installing stainless steel hull penetrations below the waterline. Hope you are very good with bonding. Really think this is a bad idea. If metal, bronze is a far better idea.

Ted

Thanks for the reply Ted, but no, we are keeping the marelon thru hulls and seacocks. The strainers and hosepipes for the strainers are 2205 stainless steel and they will be in our bonding system, mounted above the water line.
Arctic steel says they are less prone to corrosion than bronze. Our Forespar strainers just can not handle ingestion of Egeria Densa - Brazilian Waterweed which is unfortunately widespread in the California Delta. The Arctic steel strainers are bottom in side out, with no obstruction in front of the strainer. So hopefully less risk of blockage. We had to put an external strainer on our generator thru hull which worked well too, just hoping to avoid a haul out and more hull penetrations which external strainers would require

Eric

My choice for sealant would be 5200 or 4200.

Ted

Are you talking about sealant on the threads or between the hose and tailpiece?
Any kind of pipe dope on the threads. Leak Lock is my favorite.
Nothing on the hose. The clamps are enough.

HopCar said:

Are you talking about sealant on the threads or between the hose and tailpiece?
Any kind of pipe dope on the threads. Leak Lock is my favorite.
Nothing on the hose. The clamps are enough.

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Oops, thought he was talking about sealing the fitting to the hull.

Ted

I use Rectorseal T plus 2.
It prevents the hoses from adhering onto the the metal pipes. And they do not leak or fall off. I like that it is non hardening. You don't want to make it even harder to take off hoses than it already is.

RectorSeal® T Plus 2® pipe thread sealant is a non-setting, multi-purpose compound which contains PTFE, plus synthetic fibers to create a stronger seal. Recommended for use on threaded galvanized steel, iron, brass, copper, aluminum, stainless steel, polyethylene, fiberglass reinforced, PVC, CPVC, and ABS pipe. T Plus 2 may be pressurized immediately following application. Conforms to TT-S-1732.

RectorSeal® No. 5® pipe thread sealant is a soft-set, slow drying compound which seals, lubricates, and protects threaded pipe and fittings. It can be pressurized immediately for piping up through 2″ and 100 psi(for natural gas, air and water only) and is ideal for application with a wide variety of fluids and gases, including potable water applications.

I think he is talking about the marelon tailpiece into the marelon thru hull? For that I'd use 5200, it will be permanent but will never leak. Those are straight pipe threads, not tapered. For the SS strainers, I'd use SS barb fittings as plastic and metal fittings mixed are prone to leak. For that any good pipe sealant should work. One of the best in my opinion is Loctite 567 which is both a thread sealant and low strength thread locker. Great for diesel fittings as well since it is fuel resistant. Like any of the Loctite products, heating it will kill the adhesion and allow easy removal if necessary. It will not work well on plastic though.

Glad to see a vendor using "new technology" metallurgy. 2205 duplex is a great material. Pretty much replaced 904L immediately.

Not sure why you would want to use sealant on a hose barb and hose. Assembly lube, maybe, but not sealant.

At the risk of opening a can of worms, I really dont have much long term faith in marelon thru hulls. My first trip to the yard, I had all the marelon thru hulls with bronze.
While I was at it, I went from 1/2 inch hull valves to 3/4 inch hull valves for the A/C and generator.

Per sealant on the hose barbs. Totally unnecessary and inhibits hose replacement. When you do replace the hose ie maintenance of adjacent equipment, you have the added step of first removing all the old sealant from the hose barb before reinstalling the old hose or a new hose.

Thanks for all the replies
What I was was asking about is what to put on the hose barbs before you stuff the hose on it. The correct terminology appears to be tail pipe and sometimes it seems the correct descriptor is the key to a conversation. At any rate the answers that I got were
1 From Forespar who provides the marelon thru hull - nothing is needed except doubly clamp
2. The Hull Truth conversation - nothing on the hose barbs
3. Tony Athens at SBMAR - use Rectorseal # 5 on all hose to pipe connections

All of our hose to hose barb connections have some sort of white sticky goo, with double clamps from Jim Lindell. I would have to say that there is apparently no science to the hose to barb connection, other than double clamp, then if you stick some goo in there hopefully its better.
Best
Eric

For an FYI the reason we are replacing our strainers is egeria dense, Brazilian water weed, which has become edemic in the California delta. We currently have bottom in side out forespar strainers, unfortunately the lid for the strainer is secured with center thumb screw, so that requires a support over the inlet for the strainer. The result is, the weeds and crud get stuck at the support for the lid and never make it to the strainer bowl. With the Arctic Steel Strainers we will have a straight 1.5 inch intake thru hull, to strainer with no restrictions. For our application they work the best with the least modifications. Arctic steel says they are more corrosion resistant than bronze. The other option was vetus strainers but they would have required more modifications to install, or even worse, installing external strainers, which we had to do for our generator, which would have required a haul out and more hull perforations

I will post up pictures after we are done

Thanks
Eric

Helm, the white sticky goo might be Teflon grease put on to make it easier to remove the hose. I’ve never tried it. Maybe someone else here can say if it’s a good idea.

OldDan1943 said:

At the risk of opening a can of worms, I really dont have much long term faith in marelon thru hulls. My first trip to the yard, I had all the marelon thru hulls with bronze.
While I was at it, I went from 1/2 inch hull valves to 3/4 inch hull valves for the A/C and generator.

Per sealant on the hose barbs. Totally unnecessary and inhibits hose replacement. When you do replace the hose ie maintenance of adjacent equipment, you have the added step of first removing all the old sealant from the hose barb before reinstalling the old hose or a new hose.

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You may not have faith in it, but its well proven in the industry.

I have been using Rectorseal T plus 2.
It is non hardening, hoses no longer glue themselves onto metal pipes.

I use Rectorseal #5 and have had no leaks, nor any problems removing the hoses later.

Thanks for all the replies, I decided on rectorseal #5, installing the new strainers and hose on Thursday
Best
Eric

Rectorseal chart.

https://www.rectorseal.com/pipe-thread-sealant-chart/

I have used only the T plus 2, on everything has worked ok. The #5, or #7 is of interest for me regarding gasoline sealing. I wonder how much hardening #5 or #7 undergoes, the T plus 2 never hardens. If #5 hardens as in dries hard, not interested except for gasoline use. T plus 2, simply pull off the hose, and wipe it off, it will never set like an adhesive. Does say #7 is a soft set.

https://www.rectorseal.com/rectorseal-no-7/

#7 seems to be able to do everything you could possibly have.

I use the #5. ALthough it stiffens it does not harden. I have been using it on hose connections for abut 5 years now. Several of them I pull the hose off the fitting each year for winterizing.
It's still an arguement but the hoses are now removeable without damage or cutting.

helm said:

Thanks for all the replies, I decided on rectorseal #5, installing the new strainers and hose on Thursday
Best
Eric

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Gee, I missed the point of this thread- with all this talk of Rectorseal I thought it was about haemorrhoids

yes, ever since using rectorseal, the hoses are no longer getting glued on, so when you take them off no damage. Works on exhaust hoses. I ripped the end of one once, trying to get it free, never again using rectorseal.

I had one 3/4 hose so stuck on to a heat exchanger, I ripped the brass connection right out of the heat exchanger trying to get it off. Then resoldered it on.

I suppose the other choice is slice off the hose, but that gets pricey replacing all the hoses for no good reason.

I rebuilt the end of a 3" exhaust hose once. Using Loctite Black PL roof flashing polyurethane and FG wall board tape, smeared the black PL onto the hose, and wrapped layers of FG tape round and round. Worked great. that stuff is like the rubber itself. The end of the hose was worn down inside, so the end was weak, but the rest of the hose was in great shape. A few dollars in materials saved me over a hundred dollars for a new hose. If you ever see a video on how they make large hoses, you will see they wrap them in a similar way with rubber goo and some kind of fabric inside.

Afterwards, I ran some black friction tape round the repaired end. That friction tape is also great for covering old hoses. Seems like some hoses have a good liner, but the outer rubber develops cracks. This repair is over 6 years ago.

Brisyboy said:

Gee, I missed the point of this thread- with all this talk of Rectorseal I thought it was about haemorrhoids

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Well I almost got a hemorrhoid getting all the old, set up sealant off my hose fittings. I ended up using the T plus 2 which seems to work fine and won’t set up and be such a mess to get off next time.
Again, appreciate all the advice
Eric