Repair Torrid 20 gal hot water tank?

That's not unexpected.
Imagine if you pressure tested till failure, that seam would rip and let loose a blast, maybe fragmentation. They do have a pressure relief valve unless you remove it. I have seen videos of water tank failures going off like rockets, they actually launch themselves.

I wonder if they make a tank sealer, you pour it in and it hardens up on the inside.
Maybe an epoxy could do that.
Have to be drinking water safe.

The old Onan water lift mufflers, they are steel shell and they pour in molten plastic and spin the 'tank' and it coats the entire inside, called rotomolded.
The one I have is from 1970 and has never failed due to rust on the inside.

If they wanted, they could make a water tank last 10 times longer than they do.

Great job diagnosing the problem. Now you can replace the tank knowing there was no other alternative.

Now that your pressure test is safely concluded, it's time for some fun.


Here's the Myth Buster's experiment.

Remember that the Mythbusters spectacle involves heating the contents of the tank to superheated temps under pressure. When the tank fails, the instant pressure drop causes the contents flash off into steam. This occurs in the blink of an eye as the contents of the tank expand to 1025 times the volume. It is spectacular. It is a reminder that the lowly T&P valve on the water heater is what defines the difference between appliance and bomb. You're in little danger of duplicating that spectacle with an air pressure test to 150 psi, although I'd err on the side of safety. 20 psi or so will reveal any leak adequately. Also, those tanks are designed and rated for that pressure, a water tank or fuel tank IS NOT. NEVER consider applying pounds of pressure to an unrated tank.



Same theory in dealing with an overheated steam or water boiler, they can be deadly in untrained hands.

wayne in huntington beach

Insequent said:

So, my Torrid Hot water tank has developed a leak. I have started to remove connections to it and will remove it (hopefully) in the next few days. It was installed then piping and other stuff placed in front of it, so getting it out is going to be a little tricky.

I see in the Torrid literature that they refer to the inner tank as being glass lined and with a non-porous porcelain surface. This does not sound like something that is readily repairable. Of course it might just be a leak around a fitting, and that might well be repairable.

Has anyone disassemble and repaired a Torrid unit?

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Personally, I wouldn't even consider repairing your water heater. I have replaced the high limit and temp control sensors on mine but that is the most I would ever do.

wayne ford said:

Personally, I wouldn't even consider repairing your water heater. I have replaced the high limit and temp control sensors on mine but that is the most I would ever do.

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Well, it depends why it was leaking. I felt it was worth investigating that aspect at least. But I agree that doing repairs would be limited to just a few safe to-do things. Repairing the thread of the anode socket would have been one. But the bigger problem turned out to be tiny pinhole leaks along a welded seam. That clearly meant it was beyond repair.

And as TT noted, I now have the comfort of knowing it was un-repairable, which takes some of the sting out of the cost of replacing it.

Here are pics of inside of tank.

First one shows anode socket at top of tank. The white patch on the vertical seam is approximately where the pressure test showed small pinhole leaks.

Second one shows lower section of the vertical seam and the base of the tank.

Only the seams (vertical and part of upper circular seam) have iron staining from rust.

Thanks Brian: Dedinately time for a replacement.