Electric Clutches

how would one go about ordering a fan clutch for a hydraulic anchor windlass? I want to put an electric clutch on my drive pump for my anchor and want to order the right one for the tourque of what ? Main engine ? or expected load?
Any input into the general topic is appreciated as well.
located mid vancouver island if anyone knows suppliers in that area to recommend also
Great website!

driller66,
I’dtalk to fishermen. I think they all use an electric clutch to engage and disengage the hydraulic pump for fishing gear and anchor winch.

What are you trying to accomplish? Just reducing the engine load when the windlass isn’t in use? I ask because assuming the windlass hydraulics depressurization when not in use, driving the pump will consume very little power. Not zero, but low enough that you should weigh it against introducing a new failure point in a clutch, and a failure point that could leave you in really stuck somewhere.

I’m guessing your pump is belt driven off the main engine? And you are looking for something like an AC compressor clutch? I don’t know their load ratings, but it might work. I’d start with the HP requirements for the pump which is 1Hp for every gpm at 1500 psi. Double the psi and the HP doubles. Similarly if the gpm increases, multiply accordingly.

Is the windlass the only thing powered by the hydraulics?

Personally I’d be concerned about the robustness of a clutched belt drive. I know people with belt drive hydraulics for stabilizers who have had issues with the drive robustness under long term heavy loads. The more solid systems are direct mechanical drive off the main or transmission using a standard SAE A, B, or C coupling. These can deliver significantly more power than a belt drive. Fishing boats with clutched hydraulics surely are set up this way off the gear. I haven’t seen a clutched PTO off an engine, only off gears, and only off the larger gears.

As per above.
Most pumps can be run continuously and the fluid only gets a little warm. Virtually no load on the engine, when the hydraulics are not in use. This is how Pioneer is set up. She was a fishing boat with the hydraulics driving winches. Now the hydraulics drive the bow-thruster and anchor windlass only.
As Twisted Tree mentioned, a direct drive coupling is the best for reliability and a clutch is unusual in this application. A solenoid controlled valve block (Danfoss or similar) controls the flow to the hydraulic motors.

I'll second Nomad Willy, Eric,. Go talk to fishermen and their hydraulics suppliers.
A good quality clutch should be available but use a good one or as suggested you may have a failure if the quality is not there.

Normally a pump producing next to no power takes next to no power to operate AUTOMATICLY.

We use a belted pump full time for the steering system , and it only gets warm from being in the engine space.

The hyd fluid is cooled by being lead to the windlass in hyd hose on the bilge where it is cooled automatically .

The bilge pump is set to leave 2 inches of water after pumping.

The delight is the hyd system allows the autopilot to use system pressure to steer .

No 40A-60A DC motor and switch gear , just 2 tiny 12v 1/2A solenoids to feed.

If you decide you still want / need a clutch after reading the above posts what you are looking for is a Pitts clutch. But don't just guess, work with an authorized dealer.

Had one on a hyd pump much bigger than yours for over 20 yrs, more than 20,000 hrs. Had it rebuilt one time.

When I was a commercial fisherman, after a series of clutch problems, I changed my hydraulic pump over to continuously running. When running w/o a load, I didn't notice any difference in engine economy and the oil didn't get too hot, just warm. Probably a much larger pump than yours.

If you already have the hydraulic setup and pump in place (currently in use), I would contact the pump manufacturer and see if they offer a conversion kit for your existing pump.

If this is a new installation, the boat would need to be significantly large to justify the cost for a hydraulic anchor windlass if that was the only hydraulic application on the boat.

Ted

"If this is a new installation, the boat would need to be significantly large to justify the cost for a hydraulic anchor windlass if that was the only hydraulic application on the boat."

This is true , but the white smoke never comes out of a hyd unit , if overloaded it simply stops , no harm at all.

The ability to add a low cost cruising 120V generator should also be considered, if the boat spends much time underway.

First of all, what type of pump do you have?
What is the temperature of your hydraulic oil while running the boat?
What other systems do you have that are hydraulic?
Have you changed the hydraulic oil/filter recently?

Why do you think you need a clutch? What are you trying to accomplish?

I have a windlass and a winch that are powered by the same system, never used together.

More info please!

FF said:

"If this is a new installation, the boat would need to be significantly large to justify the cost for a hydraulic anchor windlass if that was the only hydraulic application on the boat."

This is true , but the white smoke never comes out of a hyd unit , if overloaded it simply stops , no harm at all.

The ability to add a low cost cruising 120V generator should also be considered, if the boat spends much time underway.

Click to expand...

True. But an electric windlass never dumps 5 gallons of hydraulic fluid in your bilge. Have a friend who is dealing with that now. Pluses and minuses to most everything.

Ted

"True. But an electric windlass never dumps 5 gallons of hydraulic fluid in your bilge."

A hyd leak is frequently corrected by the owner , getting the white smoke back in an electric motor usually requires replacement parts , or a visit to a rewind shop.

Driller seems to have bogged off...

FF said:

"True. But an electric windlass never dumps 5 gallons of hydraulic fluid in your bilge."

A hyd leak is frequently corrected by the owner , getting the white smoke back in an electric motor usually requires replacement parts , or a visit to a rewind shop.

Click to expand...

USCG doesn't fine you in 5 figures ($xx,000) for smoke going overboard accidentally.

Ted

"USCG doesn't fine you in 5 figures ($xx,000) for smoke going overboard accidentally. "


TRUE DAT!!!

Insurance - anybody not got any? If your boat is such a floating wreck that you live in fear of the Coast Guard, I would suggest the mere presence of hydraulics onboard is not your problem.

A sheen on the water can come from most any oil found in the bilge and pumped overboard..

The cost of the boat , or her condition doesn't matter as much as weather someone drops a dime and calls the USCG.

Most sheens seem to happen at a fuel dock , where fuel is vented overboard.

Hydraulics?