Damaged interior solid teak panels

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rusbet

rusbet

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Oct 1, 2010
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A section of solid teak boards inside one of the doors suffered damage from the elements during a previous ownership.* We want to repair it.* We started by sanding it and found that sections of the boards along the edges had deeper weathered crevices and it is a darker color. We are reluctant to continue sanding deeper but will if that is the way to fix it. We were also thinking of applying a wood filler and then using a stain to blend the color in, and then applying satin Miniwax polyurethane.* The satin Miniwax has worked well on our interior in areas that just need more protective coatings.

Has anyone had a similiar experience.

*
 
I don't know how or why it works, but try putting mayonaise on it, let it stay a while then clean it off.

We were told this by a friend and it actually worked on minor weather damage. Agree that satin Minwax matches perfectly.

*

*
 
You could bleach the area to lighten the area then stain the area to match.* The stain I found that matches teak some what is Miniwax Pecan.* Then apply several coat of varnish made for out side rather than interior.* I use Petitt Flagship 2015 which is expensive but it weather/holds well.*If you want a thicker coat then West System Epoxy clean.* There are several exterior areas I use the West System with varnish over.*

Most of the Epoxy and wood fillers do not take stain well.**Also keep in mind that wood does not stain one complete color so if its off people will probable not notice. **Our teak decks/trim/doors range in color from a honey color to a darker red.* So do not be overly critical.***


-- Edited by Phil Fill on Friday 6th of January 2012 12:07:48 PM
 
Every piece of new teak I have put into my boat has changed colour to look like the old teak in a short while, so don't worry about the colour.
 
koliver wrote:
Every piece of new teak I have put into my boat has changed colour to look like the old teak in a short while, so don't worry about the colour.
Click to expand...
********* I had a simular experience with the teak interior of my boat.* The newly sanded is darker than the original.** However in time the color has changed to be much closer, and almost matches.

*********JohnP
 


*

Rus,

If you are refinishing the entire piece and it is solid not veneer I would not be afraid to sand some more to get it smooth and an even color. Don't be afraid to start with #80 grit paper. Go to #100 next. Don't go any finer than #150 before the first coat. As mentioned by Phill, wood filler does not take stain well. It will also not age the same as the rest of the wood. If you do use filler, be sure to sand very well after applying as it will leave a "halo" around the holes filled which will never look right.

I am not a fan of Minwax urethane. It never seems to flow the way I like. In my flooring business I use Lenmar for a standard urethane finish. It may not be easy to find at the local hardware store. Lasts and Lasts and Hard as Nails also work well. No need for a spar varnish inside.*

Unlike most people, I like the sanding part. Seeing the good wood come out of the crud is always a revelation and reward. Just call me a third generation wood nerd.

Rob

37' Sedan
Click to expand...
*
 
rusbet wrote:
A section of solid teak boards inside one of the doors suffered damage from the elements during a previous ownership.* We want to repair it.* We started by sanding it and found that sections of the boards along the edges had deeper weathered crevices and it is a darker color. We are reluctant to continue sanding deeper but will if that is the way to fix it. We were also thinking of applying a wood filler and then using a stain to blend the color in, and then applying satin Miniwax polyurethane.* The satin Miniwax has worked well on our interior in areas that just need more protective coatings.

Has anyone had a similiar experience.

*
Click to expand...
*Interprime 1026 sealer can be slopped on and sanded flat. *That will fill the grain without the need to stain. *If there are darkened areas, that is usually oxidation and if it doesn't sand out quickly, wood bleach will take much of it out. *Epifanes Rubbed Effect varnish will provide a very hard finish that looks great. *I made these window frames out of Jotoba, which has a very deep grain and used the 1026 to fill and Rubbed Effect to finish as I am advising.
 

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Delfin wrote:
Click to expand...
*Interprime 1026 sealer can be slopped on and sanded flat. *That will fill the grain without the need to stain. *If there are darkened areas, that is usually oxidation and if it doesn't sand out quickly, wood bleach will take much of it out. *Epifanes Rubbed Effect varnish will provide a very hard finish that looks great. *I made these window frames out of Jotoba, which has a very deep grain and used the 1026 to fill and Rubbed Effect to finish as I am advising.

*Carl,

It was nice that you picked the worst window liner aboard Delfin so as not to make us all feel like we need to run down to our boats and start a refinishing marathon! The rubbed effect on your boat has an amazing look and luster.

I saw that you were in town over the holidays but I was in a rush so I didn't stop by to swap the latest stories on the exploits of the local color.

Happy New Year,

LD
 
Oxalic acid is the usual bleaching agent to lighten the wood. You will have to experiment a bit to get the lightening effect you want. Several applications of a weak mix and inspection between is better than a strong soloution. Use some soapy water or baking soda to neutralize. And don't forget to use eye protection and gloves.

Usually available from drug stores in crystal form.
 
So....are you guys saying that the dark*spot that was behind the clock that we moved on the salon wall will fade to match the rest of the wall and I can stop worrying about it?
 
Bess, I'm still waiting, four years later!
 
Besslb wrote:
So....are you guys saying that the dark*spot that was behind the clock that we moved on the salon wall will fade to match the rest of the wall and I can stop worrying about it?
Click to expand...
Bess, as Delia Rosa said you will be waiting for a long time.* The panel gets the same amount of sun light*all over it.* The dark circle was caused by the clock keeping the sun light*from the panel*behind the clock.* So even if the circle fades let's say 2 shades, the rest of the panel has a 60 shade head start.*So it fades two more shades at the same rate as the dark circle.* That makes the circle +2 and the rest of the panel +62.* The circle can't catch up.*
 
That's what I thought....I knew I was misunderstanding what the guys were talking about!
 
I had a patch that looked like a first nations carving had hung there for years. Eventually I refinished that piece. Taking the old yellowed varnish off and sanding to new (darker) wood fixed it. That panel then faded to close to the rest of the interior, within a couple of years.
 
Why not hang something over the area again? Mirror always makes the area look big.ger and brighter. A picture of the boat or family.
 
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