How big of a charger do I need?

Hey... Thanks y'all !!!!

My big hang-up right now is the crimp tool for the lugs is about $250 for a good one. Sheesh..

NO where near as fast , but many sized heavy wire ends can be crimped on with a nicro press tool. $30 bucks or so .

I have seen "budget boaters" use a nicro press tool with copper tubing installed , flattened and then a suitable hole drilled in the flat to create an inexpensive cable end.

Take a look at this page:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_cables

*and read the description of the H.D. crimper for about 140.00.* If I didn't already have* good, H.D. crimper I would go for the non ratcheting version at the page bottom.** Also if you look around the site a bit he has some good points about the lugs themselves plus other stuff electrical.

FF wrote:
My big hang-up right now is the crimp tool for the lugs is about $250 for a good one. Sheesh..

NO where near as fast , but many sized heavy wire ends can be crimped on with a nicro press tool. $30 bucks or so .

I have seen "budget boaters" use a nicro press tool with copper tubing installed , flattened and then a suitable hole drilled in the flat to create an inexpensive cable end.

Click to expand...

I just rented a cordless hydraulic/electric one for a day. Made things really easy.

Speaking of battery cables--- Can a copper lug be soldered on instead of crimped?*** Just curious?

JohnP


-- Edited by JohnP on Friday 6th of January 2012 06:36:27 PM

No, it needs to be mechanically crimped. Solder-only connections are strictly verbotten. You can solder it first, then crimp it, but it's kind of a belt and suspenders approach and the crimp can compromise the solder connection.


-- Edited by FlyWright on Friday 6th of January 2012 06:46:07 PM

FlyWright wrote:
No, it needs to be mechanically crimped. Solder-only connections are strictly verbotten. You can solder it first, then crimp it, but it's kind of a belt and suspenders approach and the crimp can compromise the solder connection.


Very interesting--Thanks for the input.

I was thinking of changing the location of my Batts and perhaps shortening cables, now I may use the cables as they are.**

JohnP

Click to expand...

*

The lug should be crimped FIRST, then filled with solder, NOT the other way around.


-- Edited by C lectric on Friday 6th of January 2012 11:46:18 PM

"then filled with solder,"

The easy way with thick cables is to dip the terminal end in a pool of melted solder.

A propane torch is fine as a heat source.

I would think one would tin the end of the stripped cable first.

Tinning is applying flux and melting sold onto the bare copper.

Than flux again and inside the lug.* Crimp it on and solder it full.

To me this would be a very positive connection,* little chance of corrosion.

JohnP**** Any opinions?

"melting sold onto the bare copper.

Than flux again and inside the lug. Crimp it on and solder it full."

Marine cable for use on a boat will be tinned , not bare, so will the terminal end..

It takes huge heat to get a #4 cable as a starter would have , so with a torch the insulation has a hard life.

After being tinned the cable is SOLID and as easy to crimp as a copper bolt.

Crimp, and dunk is the least hassle , and does the best job.


-- Edited by FF on Sunday 8th of January 2012 06:07:04 AM