Engine installation

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Harlyguynola

Harlyguynola

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2017
Messages
133
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Bonnie C’S
Vessel Make
DeFever 40ft Passage-maker Downeast
I have 79 40ft DeFever Downeast model bought it with one 130hp perfectly running Perkins engine the other engine was missing bought rebuilt same engine now it’s sitting on dock next to boat has anyone ever installed new engine into one of these and how did you get it in the engine room any input will be helpful trying to get game plan on installation of new engine IMG_1721.jpg
 
If there is a dry stack marina nearby, get the engine in a pickup truck or on a trailer and take it and the boat to the marina. They have forklifts with very long forks that can pick up the engine and load it through an aft door. Then once in the boat, you can make a timber frame to make a rigging point and then lower it to its bed. Some marinas and mechanic shops have alloy A-frames at hand that you could borrow.

You could also make a temporary timber frame that spans from the dock to the boat and alternate hoists to "walk" it across the length of the beam.

You can hire a crane, but looking at your pic it might not be able to get close enough unless you hire a big one, and that is $$$.

Service boatyards can haul the boat, and then while still in the slings use a small crane, forklift with extension, boom truck, etc, to load engine into boat while using the slings to adjust boat position/angle to get the best loading. This method is the cat's meow.

If you need yard work like bottom paint, go ahead and do the haul and knock out both the engine loading and the yardwork, incremental cost for engine load is minimal then.
 
Nice moorage Harley. Go LSU!

In addition to Ski's spot on guidance be sure to measure engine, doors and hatches well in advance of planned installation. That will insure the engine fits with no engine tear down or interior wood work removal.

With the engine currently out any additional work that could be done such as bilge painting, fuel/electric line cleanup or tank replacement?
 
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Also a good time to look at tanks, engine mounts, paint etc. It sounds like you need a consultant of sorts, like Ski suggests an all-singing all-dancing boatyard.
 
Ok guys I appreciate all advice engine room all painted rebuilt 10kw Isuzu gen set rewired all let me explain lil better for one there is only two side doors opening 20 1/2 inches wide companion hatch down into master stateroom won’t work engine tore down I can get it to 19 inches wide has anyone ever got one through door opening or should I try sideways through window I am anxious to pull trigger but would like to talk to someone who has actually installed a new engine in a 40ft DeFever once in side of salon I got it no problem trying to figure best way to get it in.
 
You could ask the PO how the bad one came out. Though maybe they cut it up first.
 
No I can’t because he don’t remember he even owned a boat Alzheimer’s got him in bad way
 
Ski in NC said:
If there is a dry stack marina nearby, get the engine in a pickup truck or on a trailer and take it and the boat to the marina. They have forklifts with very long forks that can pick up the engine and load it through an aft door. Then once in the boat, you can make a timber frame to make a rigging point and then lower it to its bed. Some marinas and mechanic shops have alloy A-frames at hand that you could borrow.

You could also make a temporary timber frame that spans from the dock to the boat and alternate hoists to "walk" it across the length of the beam.

You can hire a crane, but looking at your pic it might not be able to get close enough unless you hire a big one, and that is $$$.

Service boatyards can haul the boat, and then while still in the slings use a small crane, forklift with extension, boom truck, etc, to load engine into boat while using the slings to adjust boat position/angle to get the best loading. This method is the cat's meow.

If you need yard work like bottom paint, go ahead and do the haul and knock out both the engine loading and the yardwork, incremental cost for engine load is minimal then.
Click to expand...



Thanks no back door just two side doors the helm seat is in way on one side so was going to pull boat side ways in front of dock on other side only have 1 1/2 inch to play with do you think possible while still in water
 
harlyguynola said:
thanks no back door just two side doors the helm seat is in way on one side so was going to pull boat side ways in front of dock on other side only have 1 1/2 inch to play with do you think possible while still in water
Click to expand...



IMG_1255.jpg
 
This side is my only hope I guess
 
harlyguynola said:
thanks no back door just two side doors the helm seat is in way on one side so was going to pull boat side ways in front of dock on other side only have 1 1/2 inch to play with do you think possible while still in water
Click to expand...

IMG_0836.JPG
 
Ski in NC said:
If there is a dry stack marina nearby, get the engine in a pickup truck or on a trailer and take it and the boat to the marina. They have forklifts with very long forks that can pick up the engine and load it through an aft door. Then once in the boat, you can make a timber frame to make a rigging point and then lower it to its bed. Some marinas and mechanic shops have alloy A-frames at hand that you could borrow.

You could also make a temporary timber frame that spans from the dock to the boat and alternate hoists to "walk" it across the length of the beam.

You can hire a crane, but looking at your pic it might not be able to get close enough unless you hire a big one, and that is $$$.

Service boatyards can haul the boat, and then while still in the slings use a small crane, forklift with extension, boom truck, etc, to load engine into boat while using the slings to adjust boat position/angle to get the best loading. This method is the cat's meow.

If you need yard work like bottom paint, go ahead and do the haul and knock out both the engine loading and the yardwork, incremental cost for engine load is minimal
Click to expand...
 
Harlyguynola said:
Ski in NC said:
If there is a dry stack marina nearby, get the engine in a pickup truck or on a trailer and take it and the boat to the marina. They have forklifts with very long forks that can pick up the engine and load it through an aft door. Then once in the boat, you can make a timber frame to make a rigging point and then lower it to its bed. Some marinas and mechanic shops have alloy A-frames at hand that you could borrow.

You could also make a temporary timber frame that spans from the dock to the boat and alternate hoists to "walk" it across the length of the beam.

You can hire a crane, but looking at your pic it might not be able to get close enough unless you hire a big one, and that is $$$.

Service boatyards can haul the boat, and then while still in the slings use a small crane, forklift with extension, boom truck, etc, to load engine into boat while using the slings to adjust boat position/angle to get the best loading. This method is the cat's meow.

If you need yard work like bottom paint, go ahead and do the haul and knock out both the engine loading and the yardwork, incremental cost for engine load is minimal
Click to expand...



IMG_0253.jpg
Click to expand...
 
If it would fit through the side door, then remove the seat. I had a fuel tank replaced in a previous boat and had to cut the back of the master stateroom out to get the new tank in after we reglassed the panel back, painted it you could not tell it was ever cut. You have to do what you have to do. Sometimes is is a lot of work but there it is.
 
Greetings,
Mr. H. Golly. Not too many options other than what Mr. C suggests. Only other things I could think would be remove a window and crane it in on it's side or cut a hole in the roof and drop it in from the top. 1 ton is is a goodly weight.
 
Check out this guy. This vid show how he got a Perkins 6 out and the next vid shows how he got a Perkins 4 in - through the window from the dock, while in the water.

He’s also a highly skilled carpenter and his series is entertaining to watch.

https://youtu.be/w80bcj_kRMg
 
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Take whatever coolers, alternators, starters, filters, manifolds, etc, off engine as needed to get it skinny. 1 1/2" of clearance is plenty, provided you measure very carefully. You can make a wooden jig out of 2x4 that is the same gap as your door opening and make sure you can guide the jig down the whole length of the engine.

I don't like doing this in the water dockside as tides and wakes play havoc with rigging. Can be done, but be super careful. An engine getting loose can do a lot of damage to it, boat and people.

If you want to use the side door (and that is the way I would try) consider moving everything to a dry stack marina and renting their fork truck. Usually $100 covers it as long as you don't hold them up.
 
Some ALZ people can communicate in the morning. Maybe ask his caregivers about his cycle.


I helped with a motor swap on a sailboat. We built inside the boat with plywood to protect everything and it was still a juggling and contortion act. We had a lumber trolley type rig and slid on greased rails. Aim to do this only once.
 
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Also, a 6.354 is about 1300-1400lb in full dress with gear. Stripped down to skinny status, basic engine likely about 1000-1100lb. Not one ton.
 
That video was helpful hope I can get this done gonna try the door route thanks for all advice gonna try and do it in the water first I will keep everyone updated if I get it into salon I got it shame the door is not 24 inches wide it would be done by now I talked to Jay Bettis he said he thinks it can be done through the door so wish me luck not this weekend but next it’s gonna happen any more ideas please feel free to advise
 
Ski in NC said:
Also, a 6.354 is about 1300-1400lb in full dress with gear. Stripped down to skinny status, basic engine likely about 1000-1100lb. Not one ton.
Click to expand...

Thanks
 
Thanks
 
Just a thought, can you rig a cantilevered beam across those piles on the other side of the dock to sling the engine across to your boat?

As to getting it in, a friend had to go through his windshield when he needed to get a large object (a washer in his case) inside the boat.

Have you checked with the folks over on the Defever owners forum? I would bet there is someone there who has already done this.

Marty........................
 
Ski in NC said:
Take whatever coolers, alternators, starters, filters, manifolds, etc, off engine as needed to get it skinny. 1 1/2" of clearance is plenty, provided you measure very carefully. You can make a wooden jig out of 2x4 that is the same gap as your door opening and make sure you can guide the jig down the whole length of the engine.

I don't like doing this in the water dockside as tides and wakes play havoc with rigging. Can be done, but be super careful. An engine getting loose can do a lot of damage to it, boat and people.

If you want to use the side door (and that is the way I would try) consider moving everything to a dry stack marina and renting their fork truck. Usually $100 covers it as long as you don't hold them up.
Click to expand...


This plus. The rear housing may also need to come off depending on how wide it is. Also don't over look how much the boat will lean when you put that much weight on one side.
 
What I did:

My side door, positioned where yours is, is 27" wide.
To make my Volvo TMD40 (outgoing) <27" I removed the Heat Exchanger, Exhaust Elbow, Alternator. You may also need to remove the Starter, Trans cooler, and anything else that will get you down to <20".
My TAMD41 (incoming) also lost Aftercooler.

My boat was stabilized by a haulout and parking where a HIAB truck had access.
The HIAB operator was good enough that in 3 hours he had two engines out, two in, through the door and down through the openings in the floor, resting on the mounts.
The awkward part was getting the engine nearest to the door to come up through the opening in the floor, as the HIAB didn't have enough room to swing forward. That problem was solved by leaving the port transmission in the hole, shortening the load by 18" or so. You don't have your trans attached(?) so don't need as much room fore and aft in the hatch space. Plus, if you are in the water, you might be able to snake the boat fwd or aft to accomplish the placement of the engine once through the door.

You just need a crane on the dock, stable enough to lift and move the engine through the door. Or better yet, get the boat out of the water, then use a HIAB or a forklift.
 
Hi Harlyguynola. First, congratulations on acquiring a DeFever (Down East) 40. There were only about 30 built before Down East folded in 1983. I also have a '79 and have only seen one other. Mine's a single screw and was their brochure boat. Mine unfortunately came originally with a very odd Ford SSD-655M engine that was made by Fiat-Iveco and was nearly impossible to find parts for. I re-powered the boat two years ago with an old/new Cummins 6B. I did about 95% of the work and got help from the boat yard as needed.



So if I understand everything, one of the original engines were removed some time ago and wasn't part of the boat package. You now have a replacement engine and need to get it in. Are you planning to do this installation yourself or have a boatyard do the work? If you are going to do much of the work yourself, you will still need to be on the hard with the right equipment to put the engine in through the port side door between the stove and refrigerator.



I'm a real DIY guy with good mechanical skills and tools. If your cabin floor was already cut to allow the original engine to be pulled out, then you have a good start. On my boat, I had to cut nearly the entire cabin floor out to get the engine and transmission assembly up and into the main cabin. I used the yard's "A" frame set up in the cabin to lift the engine and trans up and then removed all accessories, manifold, heat exchanger, whatever it took to get it narrow enough to pass through that 19 1/2" door opening. I also had to removed the port handrail. The yard used a long boom attachment that slid onto their forklift. The engine had to be chained close to the boom in-order to take it out over the caprail. So your replacement engine will also need to be stripped down to get it in. I know of no other reasonable way to do it. A reputable boatyard will know how to do it. It's a big job. Let me know if I can be of help.
 
remwines said:
Hi Harlyguynola. First, congratulations on acquiring a DeFever (Down East) 40. There were only about 30 built before Down East folded in 1983. I also have a '79 and have only seen one other. Mine's a single screw and was their brochure boat. Mine unfortunately came originally with a very odd Ford SSD-655M engine that was made by Fiat-Iveco and was nearly impossible to find parts for. I re-powered the boat two years ago with an old/new Cummins 6B. I did about 95% of the work and got help from the boat yard as needed.



So if I understand everything, one of the original engines were removed some time ago and wasn't part of the boat package. You now have a replacement engine and need to get it in. Are you planning to do this installation yourself or have a boatyard do the work? If you are going to do much of the work yourself, you will still need to be on the hard with the right equipment to put the engine in through the port side door between the stove and refrigerator.



I'm a real DIY guy with good mechanical skills and tools. If your cabin floor was already cut to allow the original engine to be pulled out, then you have a good start. On my boat, I had to cut nearly the entire cabin floor out to get the engine and transmission assembly up and into the main cabin. I used the yard's "A" frame set up in the cabin to lift the engine and trans up and then removed all accessories, manifold, heat exchanger, whatever it took to get it narrow enough to pass through that 19 1/2" door opening. I also had to removed the port handrail. The yard used a long boom attachment that slid onto their forklift. The engine had to be chained close to the boom in-order to take it out over the caprail. So your replacement engine will also need to be stripped down to get it in. I know of no other reasonable way to do it. A reputable boatyard will know how to do it. It's a big job. Let me know if I can be of help.
Click to expand...



IMG_1255.jpg I am going to try and do this while in the water pull my boat sideways with port side door center the end of my dock take section of railings down and trim around door opening move fridge and side panel out something I am already sured up floor transmission is still in place the starboard side engine is fine and runs like new port side is the one that needs to be replaced I was thinking long 2x12 with kind of see-saw with engine hoist to lift with sliding the engine down holding back with come a long once in rig 20ft beam I have from top of port dash to where fridge is with beam to ceiling using bottom of beam with beam crane with swivel snatch off salon floor guide it over and down then I have to roll it back and onto stringers then pry up onto mounts before I do I will have to reassemble bell housing alternator starter water pump coolers manifolds heat exchangers wiring then bolt it to transmission i have already completely painted and insulated rewired complete engineroom over haul then a weeks worth of electrical left booking up three inverters and all controls to run genset and we head to the Bahamas lol
 
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