Canvas snap replacement

Need to replace a few button snaps, maybe some pull the dots as well. I see $9.95 hammer punch and base, generic $40 snap tools with dies all the way up to a $150 "system" from Sailrite. Have replaced a handful with the hammer/punch in the past and they were ok I guess. What do you folks use, anything in particular? We have a Sailrite sewing machine and are beginning to make some pieces so I think that ability to do a good job on the snaps will become even more important. Cheap is (almost) never good and I am sure that if what I buy works well it will be used more than I now think it will.

The generic pliers types work well. At one time I had some special fittings that went on vice grips to make them into snap tools. They worked but disappeared. The hammer and anvil type needs a base to hit against, not always available.

Greetings,
Mr. fb. The problem I've always had with the punch and base system you bash with a hammer is "squish" force and alignment. Hit the punch too hard and the crimp deforms. Too lightly and the thing falls apart after the first couple of pulls. Couple that with an off center or crooked crimp and failure results.


What I have found is if I chuck the punch in a drill press and place the die on the drill press base/table, one can accurately align and apply the proper crimping force to the fitting. Last summer I resized a polypropylene tarp and added grommets by using this method. Perfectly pressed grommets hardly distinguishable from factory grommets. Crimping for snaps is pretty well the same as for grommets. You need to get an even turn over of the stud.

I've used a lot of both snaps and grommets in various projects, from clothing to tarps to canvas. I used several methods and agree that the "squeeze" type of system is more versatile and reliable than the "bash" type of hammer/anvil device. The weight of the fabric and of the snaps themselves may vary, but the squeeze type allows the use of just the right amount of force. The pleasure of using the quality tool makes one quickly forget the expense.

We spent the money 11 years ago and have no regrets. No more blood blisters and when you’re done they look good.

Thanks, about what I figured. RTF, you forgot "Keep hitting it for good measure and then you cut into the fabric." That seemed to be my favorite. Think I will splurge for the $40 variety as shown in Larry's picture or use the perfectly good drill press I have in the garage. RTF, didn't think about that one. The Sailrite system look very nice as is most of their stuff but...read the fine print...it ties you into buying their snaps. And it's $140 or so.

TF Burgee

The quality flags / bugees I've seen are nylon overlays zigzag stitched to the background. They are mirror image (as in Janet so stitching is around the overlay on both sides.
You might check price at Rochfordsupply.com they are usuall less than Sailrite but don't always have the same selection. I know they have the snap tool.

Bacchus said:

The quality flags / bugees I've seen are nylon overlays zigzag stitched to the background. They are mirror image (as in Janet so stitching is around the overlay on both sides.
You might check price at Rochfordsupply.com they are usuall less than Sailrite but don't always have the same selection. I know they have the snap tool.

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Thanks Bacchus. Funny you mention it because I was searching last night and found Rochford significantly cheaper than others on several things including the snap tool stuff.

I have the vice grip tool with the adapters. It’s fine for replacing old snaps that pop off. If I was going to make new canvas projects I would certainly buy the tool Larry showed. The punch tool is worthless. I’ve never gotten a good crimp.

For others reading this thread, be aware, snaps come in many flavors. There are directional and non directional styles. There are different alloys available and different colors. I find this an area where giving up quality to save money is a big mistake.

bayview said:

The generic pliers types work well. At one time I had some special fittings that went on vice grips to make them into snap tools. They worked but disappeared. The hammer and anvil type needs a base to hit against, not always available.

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When I was in the upholstery business, we used those exclusively. It's not a good thing to get lined up to set a snap by hammer and die, then have something shift and make a mess that is time consuming to repair.

I have a press n snap and it’s a world better than the plier type I had before.

Larry M said:

We spent the money 11 years ago and have no regrets. No more blood blisters and when you’re done they look good.

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This is what I use. I have the dies for almost any type of snap. If you do much canvas work it saves you from having to take the canvas up and down instead of hammering the snaps, just do it with the canvas in place. I use the rotary hole punch tool so I can punch the hole and the fasten the snap without taking the canvas down. Huge time saver not to mention the quality of the snap installation.

Comodave said:

This is what I use. I have the dies for almost any type of snap. If you do much canvas work it saves you from having to take the canvas up and down instead of hammering the snaps, just do it with the canvas in place. I use the rotary hole punch tool so I can punch the hole and the fasten the snap without taking the canvas down. Huge time saver not to mention the quality of the snap installation.

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Dave
Have you tried the Press-N-Snap tool w/o punching the hole first?
I hardly ever need to punch holes unless I'm installing through many layers or very thick materials. The snap barrel punches the hole in almost all situations I have encountered.

I am usually going through multiple layers and it is just easier to punch the hole first. I know they will punch through on their own, maybe I am just a creature of habit??!

Bacchus said:

...Have you tried the Press-N-Snap tool w/o punching the hole first?
I hardly ever need to punch holes unless I'm installing through many layers or very thick materials. The snap barrel punches the hole in almost all situations I have encountered.

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Haven’t tried that yet but I will. Thanks.

Comodave said:

I am usually going through multiple layers and it is just easier to punch the hole first. I know they will punch through on their own, maybe I am just a creature of habit??!

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What punch are you using? The corner snaps are the worst. The one I have is a POS imho and I usally ended up drilling through the many layers. Maybe I’m expecting more than I should from it?

I have a Professional Revolving Hole Punch from Sailrite. It looks very much like the one in your post. You can replace the individual hole punches, maybe your is worn? I tend to only use one ot two of the hole sizes so they do get worn and need occasional replacement. I have had really good success with mine.

Dave: You sometimes get what you pay for and I payed not very much. We have Sailrite’s basic hole punch listed for $16.95. The one you have looks great. More money but it looks like it’s worth it to me at $85. I think we’ll be buying a new one. Thanks.

https://www.sailrite.com/Basic-Revolving-Hole-Punch

https://www.sailrite.com/Revolving-Punch-Six-Sizes

I use my canvas tools a lot so I try to buy good ones as they do work and last longer. I never knew how much I needed the hole punch until I had it and realized how much time and effort it saved me.

I’ve had very good luck with the Sailrite snaps with just a hammer and die. Made new front canvas window covers and side screen covers three years ago and they are like new.

Rufus, the drill press trick sounds good. I’ll try it next time I need to install snaps or grommets.

I recently installed some grommets with a cheap tool set. The hole punch was just a steel tube with a sharp edge ground on it. I had a hard time getting a clean cut hammering it through the fabric. I chucked it in a hand drill and it made a quick clean cut.

Greetings,
Mr. HC. Thanks. I hope everyone realizes that you are only using the drill press as a pseudo arbor press and the drill press is NOT running. I can fully appreciate using the proper tools for the job and there is no substitute for proper (read sometimes expensive) equipment IF one is using them a lot but it's hard, for me at least, to justify significant $$ outlay for a tool(s) used infrequently or maybe only once or twice.

I got it Rufus.
In regard to my tip, you hammer on the hand drill handle.
Just kidding!
Pull the trigger on the hand drill and the spinning punch cuts right through the fabric.

Well when I can fabricte a flybridge enclosure for less than $2000 that would have cost in excess of $7000 it isn’t hard to justify the cost of almost any tools. Then you make canvas for your next boat and the cost of quality tools is insignificant.

Larry M said:

We spent the money 11 years ago and have no regrets. No more blood blisters and when you’re done they look good.

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Same for me after making a mess of many with the cheapo hammer tools.

I don't use a punch though, rather a large nail , bent so my tiny Vise Grip will hold it away from a flat surface when set down, and heat the nail with my torch.
Fast, seals the threads to one another. Wrong, maybe , but it has worked now for quite a few years. I was told about it, not my idea, too long ago to remember by who.

Heat is your friend. I like the hot nail trick. I used to use an old soldering iron with a fine point tip for punching holes, and a flat blade n the same iron to use as a hot knife cutting Sunbrella. Like you said, no frayed edges..

Larry M said:

We spent the money 11 years ago and have no regrets. No more blood blisters and when you’re done they look good.

Click to expand...

Same for me, make's the job a snap!

I bought the Harbor Freight rotary leather punch for making holes. Works great. $6.99

Any opinions on nickel plated brass versus all stainless snaps?
Has anyone found that nickel plated brass actually does stand up well in a marine environment - or not?

ORIF said:

Any opinions on nickel plated brass versus all stainless snaps?
Has anyone found that nickel plated brass actually does stand up well in a marine environment - or not?

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Wondering the same thing. Some of my canvas is old and worn but the snaps are like new. Whatever they are is what I want. Anyone know of a way to see whether or not snaps are nickle coated vs. stainless? Any tell tale signs?

I believe that with most nickel plated brass snaps you'll see that the wire snap ring is brass, and with some, the unexposed inner portions of the snaps are not plated. Hard way would be to cut one in half and look at the cross section but I believe the above are tell tales.

ORIF said:

I believe that with most nickel plated brass snaps you'll see that the wire snap ring is brass, and with some, the unexposed inner portions of the snaps are not plated. Hard way would be to cut one in half and look at the cross section but I believe the above are tell tales.

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And there you go! Will check them out today. Just got my new snap tool from Sailrite and sawing one in half and then replacing is a great reason to use it. Thank goodness I have zero other projects to do on the boat an I can invent a new one. Right. Sure.