Splicing in 120v cable/wire?

Is it ok to splice additional length of wiring into my 120V AC cable or is it necessary to re-run the entire length?

It depends what you are talking about.....


But usually ok...use a junction box with a terminal strip.

Thanks PS. Don't like the path the AC wiring takes and need additional length to make the path I think is better. Not much, maybe an additional 4 ft to make a total 18'+- run. If junction boxes are the proper way to do it rather than butt connectors and heat shrink then it may be easier or just as easy to re-run the whole length.

While I would rather never splice any wiring, if you do a proper splice and heat shrink it then I think it would be ok. Make sure you tie it down to take the strain off the splices.

psneeld said:

It depends what you are talking about.....


But usually ok...use a junction box with a terminal strip.

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+1, and ensure to use same wire size or bigger for your splicing so you won't put yourself in jeopardy

L

Put splices in a box. Since this one run is short, I'd consider running a new length.
Splices in a run is considered bad form and certainly against code if done in a building.

not sure how splices are much different than a junction or sub panel...sure you don't start a new building or boat that way, but......

Splices are bad form, junction box’s are considered the correct method and yet I have to agree with PS.

Actually I didn't mean splices....I meant terminating a short run to a box with a terminal block not being much different than a juction box or sub panel.....or for that matter going from outlet to outlet.

Pretty common practice in bot boats and houses I have been around.

Thanks guys. As I am reading the responses it's clear that it was sort of a dumb question. As long as I can get to it all without major complications I should just re-run the whole length and do it properly. Anything else would be an unnecessary short cut. I don't have a time constraint, don't have to jump through hoops or pull the boat, etc. Why take a chance, no matter how small, on something happening with it.

firstbase said:

Thanks guys. As I am reading the responses it's clear that it was sort of a dumb question. As long as I can get to it all without major complications I should just re-run the whole length and do it properly. Anything else would be an unnecessary short cut. I don't have a time constraint, don't have to jump through hoops or pull the boat, etc. Why take a chance, no matter how small, on something happening with it.

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I’m terminally lazy and hopelessly cheap (former sailboater, so too lazy to sail anymore but still a cheap SOB). If it is easy to run a new wire and not too expensive, I’d just run a new one. OTOH, if the cost of the new length of wire, plus the terminal strip is a lot less than a new wire and the hassle of installing the terminal strip is more than running a new wire, then I’d do that.

Basically, I’d go with the easiest option. If that is a wash, then I’d go with the cheapest option.

If for any reason you choose to rewire, plan a longer length than needed so in the event you need extension (or cut and reconnect) you have enough length available. I always rewire with something like 2 extra feet just in case.

L

Greetings,
Mr. M. Lt. While I fully agree with you in theory, in practice, leaving too much extra wire causes more problems than what it's worth IMO. By all means, when connecting to a terminal strip, leave a loop just before the connecting point. That will allow a couple of re terminations at that point if necessary.



As to the OP's question. Take your pick. New wire or terminal box. Both will do the job.

psneeld said:

not sure how splices are much different than a junction or sub panel...sure you don't start a new building or boat that way, but......

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One point of junction boxes that often gets overlooked is their ability to contain a potential fire or spark. A splice buried in-line might not be as able, nor accessible for inspection. It's best to use continuous runs whenever possible, as it just saves time/money/hassles over time.

I agree that a junction box may be one in a million or more safer...but done well....I dont necessarily agree that for a do it yourselfer that they save money and time. Especially doing the new wire pull WITH RECOMMENDED SECURING POINTS......and REMOVING the old wire from its secured run.

The juntion boxes on my boat were 30 years old without issue, probably could go another 30....also includes the outlet to outlet runs.

So while a brand new run may be the ultimate, it is less than a you know what hair better than adding via propetly done extension.

I will gladly change my mind if the ABYC addresses it in their new electrical standards release

While I would prefer to run a new wire, sometimes it's all but impossible to pull new wire as the wiring was installed (fastened in place) before the interior was installed. Sometimes you have limited options.

Ted

'leave a loop just before the connecting point. That will allow a couple of re terminations at that point if necessary.'


A loop may also allow water to not drip into the junction box.

This was original eq. in my 83 OA, it distributed AC and DC to the rear stateroom. No clue as to when the one wire broke from corrosion.

what_barnacles said:

This was original eq. in my 83 OA, it distributed AC and DC to the rear stateroom. No clue as to when the one wire broke from corrosion.

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If I was to judge the install (and do not misunderstand me, I judge the install, not you, and it is worse on my boat!) I would say that you should re crimp all your wires. I can see that on crimp there is nothing to protect the stripped wire and on some it was stripped a bit short so my guess would be that you can expect the same problem again. Should be an easy fix if you have some loose length on the wire.

L