painting running gear

Inquiry*** Do you paint your prop(s) and shaft(s) with anti-fouling paint when you haul for a bottom job?***** KJ

The short answer is yes. But with what?

Often a hard antifoul is used, although the one for the hull may be ablative and softer to reduce buildup. "Propspeed"is becoming popular (props only), to keep them clean and efficient, follow the instructions.

If you wire brush the crud off the props and shafts you need to reprime before antifouling

Just don`t apply antifoul over the zincs on the shafts.

There is also a specific antifoul for the face of depth transducers.
BruceK

I'm having very good results with Prop Speed.

Ditto - I think - but I won't know for sure until we haul out next year.

I cleaned all the running gear down to bare metal, primed with Petit 2-part underwater primer (following directions precisely) then put on a couple of coats of anti-fouling. The last photo below is a couple of weeks later (hauled out for Irene) with only about 50 hours run time.

dvd

I paint the running gear with the same bottom paint used on the hull, Pettit Trinidad.* It does wear off at the tip of the prop but seems to hold well close to the shaft.* Every six months I have a diver check the zincs and clean the running gear and through hulls as we do not leave the dock much.

My boat has Prop Speed on the prop and the rudder.* The diver says it is fine after*20 months.* Worth the money.

Her'es Willy after more than 2 years in the water. Bottom paint is (was) Interlux Micron Extra... worked well but had to scrape it off ... never again. I use really soft stuff now ...Petit "Sea Mate". I've never put anti-foul on a prop. I would think the copper would get w the bronze and cause trouble. Props are expensive. I do coat the prop w Amor-All at every launch and it seems to be of benefit as I never have any real fouling there.

nomadwilly wrote:
I do coat the prop w Amor-All at every launch and it seems to be of benefit as I never have any real fouling there.

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*Do you coat the shaft with the Armor -All also?*********** KJ

nomadwilly wrote:
I do coat the prop w Amor-All at every launch and it seems to be of benefit as I never have any real fouling there.

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That's interesting since water removes Armor-All in short order if you put it on things like car tires.* I use it on the fake wood decals on the cockpit panels of our Arima (the manufacturer recommended this) and while it beads up water for awhile it doesn't take long for the Armor-All to wash away.

Perhaps your prop stays pretty clean because a) you boat in real cold waters, b) there's not as much sun up your way as down south which tends to retard growth, and c) you use your boat a fair amount so the prop spins off the barnacle larvae and whatnot on a regular basis.

We have never put anything on our props or shafts and during the periods that we use the boat a lot between haulouts the props always came out pretty clean.* The last couple of years when my schedule and much more frequent high winds during the winter*have restricted our boating somewhat we've had a lot more growth on the props.* We have the boat dove on every six months so we get a regular idea of the rate and amount of underwater growth.

This is one of those subjects that pops up every few months or so and so far the only effective treatment that i have found is Prop Speed .
I have been using this stuff for approx 6/7 years and get really good results, any where up to 24 months with either hard or easy use.
Went thru all the other treatments in the previous 10 odd years but allways got growth on prop and shaft.

Ben, * How does Prop Speed work on the hull???

Marin, * I agree except that Armor-All DOES stay on my old Buick. It's been on the Buick for about 8 years going 70mph at times and is still effective in that water beads up profoundly on the paint and runs off the windshield at speed. I really do'nt need wipers. I used Armor-All on my props on the Albin in Puget Sound for several years before moving to Alaska and it was as effective on the Albin as it has been in Alaska.

KJ, * No. It may not be good for the cutlass bearing and I surely do'nt want a loose prop. I do'nt remember any fouling there anyway.

No Mate not on the hull just the prop and shaft.
I use International Copper Coat Extra for that.
Being a timber boat i have to haul out at least every 12 months for a worm inspection and hope ther is nothing to see.
So far 17 years and all is good.

Ben,

Good luck on the worms * ...I'll be look'in at my blisters. Not much of a problem though.

Prop Speed on the hull was a joke haha

Being a timber boat i have to haul out at least every 12 months for a worm inspection and hope ther is nothing to see.

*

Wow, I didn't know you have a woodie!


-- Edited by KJ on Saturday 17th of December 2011 04:58:35 PM

Oh yes you should see his picture of it hauled and wooded down. From chine to keel Ben's boat is cross planked and it shows beautifully in a pic he posted about a year ago. A planked wood boat w a Gardner engine. Hard to top that!

Eric

Thanks Eric,
Just about to complete what is probably the longest enqgine change out in history.
Engine is running but still have not completed the gauging and fitment of the FloScan unit.
All should be done this week as I intend to take of up the coast to Fraser Island on Boxing day evening.( but only if all the work is complete)
That includes completion of the Electro Scan installation for my toilet system.

Merry Xmas and a Happy New Year to everyone .

nomadwilly wrote:
*

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A planked wood boat w a Gardner engine. Hard to top that!

Eric

Click to expand...

*

Enlighten me, Oh Zen Master. If you could elaborate on the significance of a "Gardner" engine.

Grasshopper


-- Edited by KJ on Sunday 18th of December 2011 08:21:27 PM

I use a process developed by Sea Hawk.
They etch the props and shafts down to bright metal. Then a special primer is applied followed by two coats of bottom paint.
I had to pull the boat a few weeks back for a minor repair and the bottom looked GREAT after 16 months.


-- Edited by marinetrader on Thursday 22nd of December 2011 06:48:37 AM