Bedding Stanchion on teak

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JDCAVE

Guru
Joined
Apr 3, 2011
Messages
2,908
Location
Canada
Vessel Name
Phoenix Hunter
Vessel Make
Kadey Krogen 42 (1985)
Is there a general rule of thumb for how much time one should allow for bedding compound to setup before laying down the stanchion and screwing it in place?
 
There’s some kind of Boat Life that is especially formulated for teak. Teak is troublesome re adhesion so something especially for it may likely be golden.

However I have always used Sicka Flex on my stanchions to teak cap rail. About 12 years so far. It’s a bedding compound (391) so the adhesion isn’t “savage” like 3M 5200.
 
I used Sika 391 to caulk my teak toe rail to deck joint last year. I used their primer on the teak first. So far so good.
 
I used TDS, Teak Decking Systems. I’ve used it before for seams and it worked well in this application. It maintained its shape and wasn’t runny, so I was pleased.
 
An important takeaway here is that no adhesive is needed or wanted. The fasteners attach the part and the bedding compound provides a seal and allows slight movement w/o loosing the seal. On a stanchion one has a heavy mechanical advantage so some movement is a given and some stanchion bases will bend some. Even take a slight permanent bend. A good bedding compound works well.

I don’t see it but I thought someone mentioned to not fully tighten the fasteners initially but to pull up the slack at first and pull down firm but not hard after basic curing has taken place. There must be a fat enough bead of bedding compound to allow the slight movement that will happen over time. With a hairline bead any movement would likely break the seal. I do this but a more flexible sealant may be even more appropriate. I think there’s too much movement to effectively use Dolfinite. But a good shipwright may use that. For those that haven’t used it, it has a consistency of heavy grease but more viscous.
 
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