Craftsman Marine or C Marine

Does anyone have a Craftsman Marine or C Marine bow thruster? Their headquarters is in the Netherlands. If so, where do you purchase your bow thruster anodes? AER Marine in Florida was the distributor for the USA, but they no longer are associated with Craftsman. I have contacted every USA dealer listed on their website all no one is doing business with Craftsman today. I can purchase an anode from one of their dealers outside the USA. The cost with shipping is $175 USD.

I have been unable to find anyone who can cross over the part number. Any suggestions?

I'd check with Deep Blue Yacht Supply and Boat Zincs.com and see if they have something similar that will work. Also Florida Bow Thruster, who distributes Vetus.

Photograph the existing anode and measure it and forward to Boat Zincs and they should be able to help you.

BandB said:

Photograph the existing anode and measure it and forward to Boat Zincs and they should be able to help you.

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My money would be on Deep Blue. I have found their service and advice quite helpful.



https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/nut-zinc-anodes#/pageSize=21&viewMode=list&orderBy=15

I tried Florida Bow Thruster and Boat Zincs and gave them measurements on the anode. They had nothing to match. I did find one that is 1/4" larger in diameter (do not see a problem with larger diameter) and the recess for the prop nut was 3mm larger. I will try adding some aluminum shims for the prop nut and try to make it work. I am hoping to find something that I does not need modifying. Will give Deep Blue a call tomorrow.

I'm going through the same issue now on our boat. AER used to be the dealer for C-Marine here on the Gulf Coast, but recently dropped them to focus only on Vetus. I confirmed that there is presently no active dealer in the USA for C-Marine, and after calling all the old dealers, I found out that all the anode stock has been bought up by boatyards.

Regarding universal fit anodes, it all depends on what size thruster you have.... I have stern and bow thrusters on Salty, and they take the BA.185.90007 anode. I just received a couple of Vetus SET0151 anodes from Boatzincs.com, which seem to measure the same as the C-Marine part (and about half the price!), but haven't tried to install them yet. I'm reworking my BCD/regulator/weight setup now and waiting for a little clearer water in the marina...hopefully within a week or so I'll be able to report success!

I need the same C Marine part number anode. I also bought the SET0151. That is the one I am trying to modify. The nut on the thruster shaft takes a 17mm wrench. The inside of the SET0151 will fit over a nut that will require a 20mm or 21mm wrench. I fabricated some aluminum shims 1.5mm thick to use as filler to fill up the extra space. Planning on using epoxy or 5200 to attach them to the inside of the anode. I have not installed the "McGyver" anode. I used a bolt that fits a 17mm wrench to check the clearance and have just a little play between the anode and the nut.

ForEvrYng said:

I need the same C Marine part number anode. I also bought the SET0151. That is the one I am trying to modify. The nut on the thruster shaft takes a 17mm wrench. The inside of the SET0151 will fit over a nut that will require a 20mm or 21mm wrench. I fabricated some aluminum shims 1.5mm thick to use as filler to fill up the extra space. Planning on using epoxy or 5200 to attach them to the inside of the anode. I have not installed the "McGyver" anode. I used a bolt that fits a 17mm wrench to check the clearance and have just a little play between the anode and the nut.

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I'd refrain from using epoxy or 5200 in the connection area of the zinc...they are both excellent insulators and you want the best possible electrical connection to the prop nut!

My replacement zincs are down on the boat right now, but I seem to recall that the nut pocket casting was 16mm wide across the flats....I was thinking that I may have to take a Dremel tool and enlarge the opening, not shim it...guess I won't know until I get down there again.

Greysailor thanks for reminding me about the insulating properties of 5200. I bought the BP-195 SET 0151 anode because I was told that a 16 mm bolt would snuggly fit in the anode. The person may have used a 16mm bolt with a 22mm head when he checked the fit. I too thought it would be time to break out the deimel tool. Please let me know how your installation goes.

Hi
I am the Australian Dealer for CM
Happy to assist you if you have time to wait. The problem with using other brands is the size of the retaining screw. You could use a Side Power one however the head size of the Allen head bolt is smaller on the CM / Craftsman product. Perhaps in a pinch a washer or similar to retain it? Make sure you use tread locker on all anode screws.
Could I suggest you try Canada metals - they are related to the Australian CM Engine distributor; good people.

Delta Tango said:

Hi
I am the Australian Dealer for CM
Happy to assist you if you have time to wait. The problem with using other brands is the size of the retaining screw. You could use a Side Power one however the head size of the Allen head bolt is smaller on the CM / Craftsman product. Perhaps in a pinch a washer or similar to retain it? Make sure you use tread locker on all anode screws.
Could I suggest you try Canada metals - they are related to the Australian CM Engine distributor; good people.

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So do you know more or can you shed any light on the lack of dealers now in the US? And does the company have no US presence themselves?

To be honest I don’t get it. Been selling / servicing thrusters for near 25 years and I can honestly say it’s a great product - it’s a business opportunity for someone to take over- if I lived there I would have done it already!

Deep Blue Yacht offered absolutely no help at all. They would not measure the nut size inside the anoded even if I provided a couple of their part numbers to check. Probably not enough $$ in an anode sale.

ForEvrYng said:

Deep Blue Yacht offered absolutely no help at all. They would not measure the nut size inside the anoded even if I provided a couple of their part numbers to check. Probably not enough $$ in an anode sale.

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I went to the boat today and measured the new Vetus zinc... .960" across the nut flats. I checked my logbook and the old CM zinc I took off last season measured .687".
So, looks like you may be right about needing a shim of some sorts.

Are you hauled out now?
I'm thinking about measuring the shaft/thread pitch to see about having an oversized nut machined that will fit the available Vetus zinc.

Delta Tango said:

To be honest I don’t get it. Been selling / servicing thrusters for near 25 years and I can honestly say it’s a great product - it’s a business opportunity for someone to take over- if I lived there I would have done it already!

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DT,
Do you have information on the C-Marine BA-185-20012 thruster that would show the prop nut diameter/thread pitch?
Thanks in advance!

I may have found an anode that will fit. Will let you know Monday.

greysailor said:

DT,
Do you have information on the C-Marine BA-185-20012 thruster that would show the prop nut diameter/thread pitch?
Thanks in advance!

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Hi Luke
its a standard M10 nyloc - pitch wise I am less sure of but assume it is a course pitch at 1.5, I believe this is the most common.
17mm spanner required. Remember to grease the thread.
Dave

Delta Tango said:

Hi Luke
its a standard M10 nyloc - pitch wise I am less sure of but assume it is a course pitch at 1.5, I believe this is the most common.
17mm spanner required. Remember to grease the thread.
Dave

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I think I'll dive mine, remove the nut and prop, then have a buddy machine a 316ss prop nut that will fit a common tapered prop nut anode. Enough of this "unique proprietary design" crap! [emoji35]

greysailor said:

I think I'll dive mine, remove the nut and prop, then have a buddy machine a 316ss prop nut that will fit a common tapered prop nut anode. Enough of this "unique proprietary design" crap! [emoji35]

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Hi Luke,
nothing unique about a nyloc nut, its the same one SP and most others use the difference for CM is that the retaining Allen head for the anode is smaller than SP (for example use)
What I see here in Australia is people using the SP anode all the time but not noticing that the hole for the Allen head is larger so its only just help on - and will fall off in quick time. That in itself isnt a hard fix.
I have raised this thread with the big wigs at CM- if nothing else something positive should come out of it.
Shocks me really that you guys are having issues for such simple stuff.

Delta Tango said:

Hi Luke,
nothing unique about a nyloc nut, its the same one SP and most others use the difference for CM is that the retaining Allen head for the anode is smaller than SP (for example use)
What I see here in Australia is people using the SP anode all the time but not noticing that the hole for the Allen head is larger so its only just help on - and will fall off in quick time. That in itself isnt a hard fix.
I have raised this thread with the big wigs at CM- if nothing else something positive should come out of it.
Shocks me really that you guys are having issues for such simple stuff.

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DT,
What is the item number for the Side Power anode that will fit our C-Marine thruster mentioned above? The problem we're having over here is finding an anode that fits snuggly on the prop nut.

The anode worked with only a 10 second modification. Maybe not a good as a C Marine anode but it will do just fine. This has been an 8 month search.

ForEvrYng said:

The anode worked with only a 10 second modification. Maybe not a good as a C Marine anode but it will do just fine. This has been an 8 month search.

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Great!
Please verify which anode you used and how you modified. PM me if you want.
Luke

C- Marine Anode

I am also a not so lucky owner who also will need that anode in the near future. Please post what you used as substitute and what mod you did to make it work
Eddie

This is the anode from Boat Zincs.

Zinc Anode for Quick Thruster with 140mm Tunnel (MMANBTQ14000)

The depth of the anode would not allow it to seat against the prop. I drilled a recess approximately 3/16" to 1/4" to allow the anode to fit over the shaft. It's not perfect. Probably the "factory" anode is 2 1/8" in diameter and this one is 1 7/8". It seats against the prop and is snug on the prop nut.