Creating an oil change system

Those fittings make me very nervous. They are not fitting into the tee's properly. A proper npt fitting should screw into its mating fitting 1-1/2 to 3 turns by hand before you tighten with a wrench. You have some with the fitting almost bottomed out on one side and barely in on the other side. I would be willing to guess that you have a combination of threads here. Npt, sae, jic, bsp, and various metrics. (Japan and Germany use different metric standards as do Caterpillar, Komatsu, Hitachi and many other machine manufacturers.)
Before you hook this up you should cap off each end and put an air compressor on one side and pressurize the whole thing to 100 psi. You're liable to find yourself with a bilge full of oil or worse, a burned up engine.
Even if it holds pressure, you may someday want to sell you boat and a surveyor would have some comments on this set up.
For what its worth, You should go to a plumbing supply or better yet a hydraulic fitting company and get the proper parts.
John

Also as i looked at one of your earlier posts, why did you go to China for your fittings. there are probably a dozen very good hydraulic fitting suppliers withing a few miles of where you keep your boat and for $20 to $30 you could get everything you need and know that it would not leak. Don't do it over the phone, just take what you have into the sales counter and let them put something together for you.
John

johnma said:

Also as i looked at one of your earlier posts, why did you go to China for your fittings. there are probably a dozen very good hydraulic fitting suppliers withing a few miles of where you keep your boat and for $20 to $30 you could get everything you need and know that it would not leak. Don't do it over the phone, just take what you have into the sales counter and let them put something together for you.
John

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It is all NPT, and I know that SS chinese tee was overcut. I can torgue it tight and seal it just fine using Permatex #2.

I test fit at the boat and it sits fine on top the stringer. Plan to attach with some electrical pipe clamps screwed on.

Got to remember there is no hydraulic oil pressure on any of these fittings.

Resale value is not even a consideration whatsoever for me. When I got this boat I knew at the time very few people would want it, but I enjoy it.
Over the years I totally rebuilt much of this wood boat hull, rebuilt both engines, one velvet drive. It is a hobby boat to keep me busy.

Took my mid 80's parents just yesterday and my grandkids and daughter out for a 5 hour trip. We had a great time. We use the boat as a picnic boat. Kids love to jump off and go swimming. It is nice to get the family all together. I was a little worried about my parents getting onto the boat, the tide was just perfect so an almost flat step on to the boat from the finger pier. 5 hours later, an almost flat step off the boat. Like an amazing miracle, we did not plan that and it just worked out fine. There are some tides, I can barely get on and off the boat.

Spent some time connecting all the manifold fittings together. I used Permatek #1 sealer.

Motor is attached. I plan to use a 3/4 PVC pipe clamp to hold down the valves.
First valve goes to port motor, second to starboard, third to a loose hose for trans, etc..., fourth will head back rearward to gen and have a loose hose too.

A short section of hose to join pump to manifold, pump oil into a 5 gallon bucket. long hoses to fitting on the oil drain plugs of engines.

It all fits very well there.
Will take me a few months to eventually finish. This is low priority right now.
Getting access to the starboard motor's drain plug is going to be a reach for me.
Exhaust manifold makes it hard, may need to disconnect it from the head.

If it hasn't been mentioned don't forget to add a hose for refilling from containers

bayview said:

If it hasn't been mentioned don't forget to add a hose for refilling from containers

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Pump only turns one way, if it was reversible, then you could pump oil back into the engines, which is an interesting idea. Would need to have an on-off-on DPDT switch wired into motor to flip the field brushes, which I dont know If I want to do that figuring it all out.

The system simply sucks oil from any of 4 places determined by which valve is open. Then the outflow is going to a 5 gallon bucket.

Refilling is simple enough, put funnel into oil fill and pour in the oil. It was always much harder to get the oil out.