I would be interested in the experiences and lessons learned from anyone who has cast molded-in non-skid panels over a large-ish deck area (not just a patch repair to existing molded non-skid). I understand latex-backed molds for the various 'diamond' patterns are available from gibco (https://gibcoflexmold.com/); or that panels of acrylic ceiling light diffusers can be used (https://www.homedepot.com/b/Buildin...ght-Panels-Louvers/2-x-4/N-5yc1vZc58pZ1z0w2mf). I am getting ready to replace the worn-thin, screwed-down teak on my foredeck and I want to weigh the option of making up and 'glassing-down molded non-skid panels vs teak panels. I don't want to paint-and-sand a non-skid finish.
Molded-In Non Skid
- Thread starter Aquabelle
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Not what you asked, but:
There are also stick on non-skid materials such as Treadmaster.
As a functional nonskid surface, molded in gelcoat is the very worst in my opinion. A lot of sailors swear by Treadmaster, and often gel coat non-skid is sanded off to replace it with Treadmaster. It has the advantage of not requiring a perfect deck surface to start with. On my sailboat, the non-skid areas are Awlgrip with the Awlgrip supplied additive, it is much better than any molded in non-skid, and has worn well 10 years on. Kiwigrip in another liquid applied material.
There are also stick on non-skid materials such as Treadmaster.
As a functional nonskid surface, molded in gelcoat is the very worst in my opinion. A lot of sailors swear by Treadmaster, and often gel coat non-skid is sanded off to replace it with Treadmaster. It has the advantage of not requiring a perfect deck surface to start with. On my sailboat, the non-skid areas are Awlgrip with the Awlgrip supplied additive, it is much better than any molded in non-skid, and has worn well 10 years on. Kiwigrip in another liquid applied material.
healhustler
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I’m also looking at this kind of fix in the near future. I’m hesitant about sanding down my current molded-in non skid to replace it, but I don’t see much in alternatives. Trying to sand and repaint molded-in non skid seems like a job doomed to failure for numerous reasons, not the least of which is the added paint will likely fill in the gaps that form the surface to begin with. Then what, sand in the paint? What a mess.
Comodave
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I understand that you don’t want to paint a nonskid on, but our nonskid was in very bad condition with gel coat cracking. We sanded the nonskid off and painted with Kiwigrip. It has been about a year and so far we love it. As to applying a nonskid panel over the existing deck, I think it would be difficult to get a really good result. Maybe I am wrong.
what_barnacles
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Ive used the gibco patterns on several center consoles. It takes a bit to get the gelcoat and the mold to work right, but sanding off a bad spot and redoing it is easy enough.
If you can match the gelcoat color right it will look factory.
If you can match the gelcoat color right it will look factory.
Thanks Barnacles....yes, I am after a "factory" look so it's teak or molded non skid I think. I am assuming no need to sand to perfection under where the (large~ish) panels will go down, just the in between 'channels' which will be gloss painted....is this correct ?
Ftbinc
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Manatee non-skid
Hi Larry:
We have similar issues on on Manatee on the deck. Happy to hear what you come up with. I have repainted decks that had sanded non-skid with awlgrip with good results, but never had to deal with a molded in deck... On a similar note, does the water all drain off of your top deck or do you get puddles?
Paul
Hi Larry:
We have similar issues on on Manatee on the deck. Happy to hear what you come up with. I have repainted decks that had sanded non-skid with awlgrip with good results, but never had to deal with a molded in deck... On a similar note, does the water all drain off of your top deck or do you get puddles?
Paul
what_barnacles
Guru
You'll have to sand everywhere you plan to apply gelcoat. Secondary bonding polyester or vinylester is hard to achieve without a good substrate. A good orbital sander with a shop vac hooked up will make it easier though.
Epoxy gelcoat is much tougher and sticks way better but its UV susceptible. You can find UV protected epoxy but they typically need to be coated as well.
Epoxy gelcoat is much tougher and sticks way better but its UV susceptible. You can find UV protected epoxy but they typically need to be coated as well.
FF
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If you just need a large area of no skid that looks good , but will not match the factory failed area the multihullers have a solution.
Sand the entire area smooth and use spray starch and an iron to smooth coarse cotton mosquito netting,
Trim it around cleats deck fittings and cut it to fit .
Use 2 part epoxy paint to cover the area and then lay on the coarse netting.
The cotton will suck up much of the epoxy paint , a dry-ish paint roller will help getting it flat .
A very thin layer of marine paint can increase the life of the epoxy no skid .
Sand the entire area smooth and use spray starch and an iron to smooth coarse cotton mosquito netting,
Trim it around cleats deck fittings and cut it to fit .
Use 2 part epoxy paint to cover the area and then lay on the coarse netting.
The cotton will suck up much of the epoxy paint , a dry-ish paint roller will help getting it flat .
A very thin layer of marine paint can increase the life of the epoxy no skid .
