Heat shrink tubing onto nylon rope at end near anchor?

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sdowney717

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Old Glory
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1970 Egg Harbor 37 extended salon model
Harbor Freight sells a pack of tubing and one of them is quite big diameter, I just thought could you using a heat gun heat shrink that tubing on nylon rope without damaging the rope? One of them I think can pass over 3/4 inch nylon 3 strand rope.
Or alternatively, just slide it on and don't shrink it on.
I was thinking of a light chafe protection for the end of the anchor rode where it meets the anchor, before the eye splice. Of course I am just thinking and not sure it would pass the splice braid at the end. I have bought several packs of their heat shrink tubing and it good quality. I wonder how it would last exposed to the sun. If it is not durable in sunlight, I wont bother.
 
Good question. No idea of the UV tolerance of heat shrink but last week I used some to whip the ends of my 1/2 inch dink painters. I started with the West Marine liquid whipping and topped it with the heat shrink. It looks fine but we'll see how long it lasts in the sun.
 
Maybe you can check to see what temperature is needed to shrink the heat shrink and then check to see what temps will damage the nylon?

Is there a specific chafe point that you are trying to protect? I’ve used some nylon tubular webbing as chafe protection. Slide it on and take s few stitches to keep it in place.
 
Ive used it on several line, but found that you need to leave a 1/4 inch or so out of the heat swrink and not apply too much heat. I use a heat gun at the low setting and start at the line end and work to the bitter end. Red does fade in the sun.
 
I have some heat shrink which is exposed 24/7 and while it has faded, it seems to still be otherwise ok.

Heat shrink typically shrinks around 200-250 degrees. Nylon typically melts between 400-500 degrees depending on type. So judicious application of the heat gun should be ok. I just wouldn't apply that heat on any part of a line that is under load - short of obvious melting there's no easy way to know what damage could be caused by the heat gun.

A word on heat shrink - there are different types of heat shrink and typically what you get at a place like Harbor Freight is really low quality. Its a different material, is thinner and shrinks at a much lower temp. As long as you understand that - fine. Having purchased and used cheap/crappy heat shrink in the past I really try to avoid it now. I would recommend using high quality stuff.

Ken
 
I used it to whip the ends of my 3 stranded lines and the sheathed lines as well. Usually, if the line is used regularly, the shrink wrap comes off. I just reapply. Works for me. As far as chaff, never thought about that. Just keep an eye on it. Obviously, if it develops a hole it's not right for chaff protection.
 
You don’t want to use it as chaff protection since it will be waterproof. You want rain water to get to the nylon line so it doesn’t overheat and melt. I use heavy duty adhesive heat shrink as whipping. It works well for me.
 
I used it to whip the ends of my 3 stranded lines and the sheathed lines as well. Usually, if the line is used regularly, the shrink wrap comes off. I just reapply. Works for me. As far as chaff, never thought about that. Just keep an eye on it. Obviously, if it develops a hole it's not right for chaff protection.

If it falls off I suggest trying "adhesive lined heat shrink". Might stay on better.

Ken
 
Is it possible you might be devising a solution for which there isn't a problem? Are you getting chafe now?
 
Well not really a chafe. But the end of the rode at the eye area, I would like to protect as it gets a worn look, and I was thinking it might be due to rubbing on the muddy bottom or constant exposure on deck over the years. I can see the difference between rode that is always in the locker below the hawse pipe and the rode that stays above outside. Rather than expose the line to continual exposure cover it with something sacrificial. One negative could be sunlight on a black heat shrink is going to heat up the rode.
 
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SD717, I would think it'd be simpler and cheaper to just reverse the lines. Inevitably, they all will need to be replaced over time anyway.
 
SD717, I would think it'd be simpler and cheaper to just reverse the lines. Inevitably, they all will need to be replaced over time anyway.

Maybe a white nylon sock slid over top of the line. Ideally something like that would be a couple foot long and 1" to 1.25 in diameter. But if the ends were secured, you could stretch it a little.
 
If it falls off I suggest trying "adhesive lined heat shrink". Might stay on better.

Ken

This is what I used to whip various line ends and it worked great for years.

As far as chafe on an anchor line end, it certainly can't hurt but a length of chain is much better.
 
There are all sorts of heat shrink tubing for different applications. You can even get shrink tubing that shrinks by itself without heat. You can get heat shrink that shrinks at different temps and it is available in different shrink ratios. If you get a kind that it adhesive lined and high shrinkage, it may stay in place.

I tried heat shrink whipping for awhile, but they always ended up coming off. IME, it is much better to do line end whipping the traditional way.

If you cover a portion of the line for chafe protection with heat shrink, it will be hard to check that area for wear or damage.
 
PVC tubing is pretty good for chafe protection. We used it on our trailer boats for years when using basically an all line rode that was retrieved by hand. Often about 6m long. Use a clamp on it at the end nearest the anchor if using a long piece like that. We had about 2m of chain as well since for diving we always anchored amongst rocks, and a little bit of chain helped keep the line clear of the bottom. The PVC got scratched up a fair bit, but never cut.
 
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