2 filters in series

How would I go about setting up 2 Racors in series so if one plugs, I could switch a valve and run off the second filter. Small, hot, engine room.
I know Racor sells series set-ups, but they are north of $1000.

Greetings,
Mr. CF. I think for the application you are intending, filters would be better placed in parallel.

The Racor package puts them in parallel, but you only use one at a time. You can make the same thing with two Racors, brass plumbing fittings and a three way valve.


David

Or two racors two tees, and four 90 degree shutoff valves, hose barbs,and clamps,etc.
You want them in parallel not series.

Many thanks. Parallel sounds like the plan. Is there a site where I could get a diagram of how the two filters would be plumbed? Should I have 10 microns for each filter?? I was thinking 10 microns for the first filter and maybe 30 for the second??

CaptFun said:

How would I go about setting up 2 Racors in series so if one plugs, I could switch a valve and run off the second filter. Small, hot, engine room.
I know Racor sells series set-ups, but they are north of $1000.

Click to expand...

An option is to spend much less and get much more filtering capacity while adding vac gages to tell you when you need to change as well as being a diagnostic tool....

https://www.sbmar.com/articles/marine-fuel-filtration-the-seaboard-way/

Less expensive filters, less expensive elements, much easier to change, ability to see what the current filter status is.

Another idea might be to install a new Racor (or Seaboard or whatever) two-filter system and sell off the originals...

??

-Chris

smitty477 said:

Less expensive filters, less expensive elements, much easier to change, ability to see what the current filter status is.

Click to expand...

+1

I intend relocating my current Racor. I now need to lay on the engine in order to change the filter I hope to relocate that filter add a second one in parallel and also add a water separator forward of the first filter. Should I add an electric 12v fuel pump into the mix?? The new location will be on the port side of the engine and just above the engine in height.

Greetings,
Mr. CF. Re: Post #5. Why different porosity filters IF they are in parallel? Should be same size IMO.


Electric fuel pump is a good idea. You could also run that in parallel as well. Isolated by appropriate valves to be used for priming only.


What engine are we dealing with please?

It's an Isuzu 100HP A-4B 4 cylinder, naturally aspirated diesel.

I'm running progressive filters. A 27 micron big Fleetguard into a 10 micron Racor and on to a 2 Micron engine filter (with an Aux 10 micron Sierra for the cleaning cycle) When I re-did the system last year I added in a Pass thru style Walbro Pump and a 3 way valve so I can clean/polish, or shift fuel from tank to tank. Works great and less than $200 for all the hardware..

3 in a row? A bit weird...

Xsbank said:

3 in a row? A bit weird...

Click to expand...

Not if you have an engine made in the past decade or so. Two micron is a near requirement before entering the engine fuel delivery systems. I’d guess you’ve read Tony Athen’s take on this 3 in series setup? I’ve been on some large vessels where an Alfa Laval is the 4th fuel cleaning stage.

If you do it right, you can also transfer fuel between tank and polish at the same time or polish and return to the same tank.
For your fuel return from the engine, valve it so you can return to either tank.
My gen return is only to the port tank.
I like to run with the tanks 'split' so if one tank is contaminated, it wont spread to the other tank.

Relief is spelled "clean fuel"

To be able to filter and polish your fuel for under 200 and send the return to either tank is a dream come true

CaptFun6068 said:

To be able to filter and polish your fuel for under 200 and send the return to either tank is a dream come true

Click to expand...

Here is the URL for one system. I do believe I will install one on my boat this winter. I will need to add additional valves to accomplish what I want.
Hope that helps.

http://reversopumps.com/fuel-polish...ng-marine/fuel-polishing-system-80-gph-marine
OR
http://reversopumps.com/fuel-polish...g-marine/fuel-polishing-system-150-gph-marine

They aint cheap.... but then when is anything on a boat cheap?

The Reverso folks make a clean looking installation.
Down side? One more size of filter to keep onboard Oh joy, oh joy. LOL

They make automat timers and scheduler but, I dont want that.

"I intend relocating my current Racor."


Why not plumb it out of the Hell Hole where checking maint and filter changes can be done more often and more easily?

Installed twin Racor type filters in parallel on several boats all diesels and some twins. 3 way valve, tees, USGC spec hose and fittings, clamps for under $300. with fuel pump or squeeze bulb. Amazon and ebay have everything you need. The attached picture is what stopped a mainship cold trolling https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMddbGd6zeukvWmuUmn10oWulccpua7Ii5Hh_8offshore. BoatUS towed it in.

On MOJO we use a Gulf Coast "paper towel" filter for a primary. It's plumbed so we can easily switch to a back-up Racor 500 if needed. But since installation of the Gulf Coast Filter, having burned over 5,000 gallons, the Racor not been used. The Gulf Coast filter reportedly provides "sub-micron" filtration. I have no way of measuring it other than to say a few years ago I cut open the on-engine filter to see how dirty it was... it looked essentially new! We can also recirculate fuel from any one of 4 tanks back to any other of 4 tanks, and transfer fuel from tank to tank. I circulate my fuel to polish it once a year, circulating each tank for 24 hours. I drain the water (never much) annually and change the roll of paper towels maybe every 2 years. It's been a pretty much bullet proof system.

Schematic diagram:
View attachment C__Users_MOJO_Documents_MOJO_Fuel Valving Model (1).pdf

Photo - it looks more complicated than it is:

Auto, the URL did not work on my computer.

Thanks one and all for your thoughts, and awesome advice. I'm re-plumming my fuel system to include 2 filters in series. Now the height of the single Racor is about mid engine. I wanted to mount the replacement 2 filter system higher on a bulkhead, perhaps 6 to 8 inches higher, That would allow a much easier solution, ie, changing plugged filters. Should I add an electric fuel pump to system??

CaptFun6068 said:

Thanks one and all for your thoughts, and awesome advice. I'm re-plumming my fuel system to include 2 filters in series. Now the height of the single Racor is about mid engine. I wanted to mount the replacement 2 filter system higher on a bulkhead, perhaps 6 to 8 inches higher, That would allow a much easier solution, ie, changing plugged filters. Should I add an electric fuel pump to system??

Click to expand...

If the filter is below the normally expected fuel tank level, then the filter can be re-filled by gravity. If up high, then you have to either pump the fuel in or dump it in to re-fill.

What if you only have one 500 gal tank - fiberglass at that!?

CaptFun6068 said:

Thanks one and all for your thoughts, and awesome advice. I'm re-plumming my fuel system to include 2 filters in series. Now the height of the single Racor is about mid engine. I wanted to mount the replacement 2 filter system higher on a bulkhead, perhaps 6 to 8 inches higher, That would allow a much easier solution, ie, changing plugged filters. Should I add an electric fuel pump to system??

Click to expand...

As High Wire mentioned, I’d put the Racors low enough that the filters will gravity fill. It will make filter changes easier.

"If up high, then you have to either pump the fuel in or dump it in to re-fill."

Where do you carry the already filtered fuel to refill a filter?

Gravity is your friend refilling filters. OR ATF , clean fuel in a can.

FoxtrotCharlie said:

What if you only have one 500 gal tank - fiberglass at that!?

Click to expand...

Foxtrot, I guess it falls to me to say something.

If it is an older boat, plan on replacing the fiberglass tank with stainless tanks some time in the future. Getting the fiberglass tank out it the easier part. Break up the fiberglass and you may have to install multiple tanks to get them in. You will need the standard supply, sight glass for each tank, remote level sensor, return connections and cross-connect valves so as to transfer fuel return from the engine. If you are considering a fuel polishing system, this the time to add the necessary connections for that too.

OldDan1943 said:

Foxtrot, I guess it falls to me to say something.

If it is an older boat, plan on replacing the fiberglass tank with stainless tanks some time in the future. Getting the fiberglass tank out it the easier part. Break up the fiberglass and you may have to install multiple tanks to get them in. You will need the standard supply, sight glass for each tank, remote level sensor, return connections and cross-connect valves so as to transfer fuel return from the engine. If you are considering a fuel polishing system, this the time to add the necessary connections for that too.

Click to expand...

Really!

why take out a glass tank if it isnt leaking or compromised?

psneeld said:

why yake out a glass tank if it isnt leakkng or compromised?

Click to expand...

psneeld, I said plan on it, aka start saving up.