Interested in opinions about using Rustoleum to paint the topsides of a steel hull. Currently painted with Brightsides polyurethane but has some surface rust bleed thru. Rails are painted with Rustoleum and it seems to do quite well, just wondering about painting the hull topsides. Any/All suggestions welcomed!
Rustoleum for Topside Paint?
- Thread starter MOJO
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Lepke
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I've been around steel and salt water since the 1960s. Bleed through is usually from either salt water penetrating the paint or the steel not properly prepared before painting. Sometimes rust is expanding under an apparent good paint coating. I would do a larger experiment before committing to a non marine paint.
The best success I've had with paint/steel is sandblasting, etch, excellent epoxy primer and then top coat. The best success I've ever had with steel is sandblasting, zinc coating and then marine primer & top coat. Zinc coating is achieved with a spool gun and flame that melts the zinc and sprays it on the metal. Zinc coating from .001" to .010" is easy to apply.
The best success I've had with paint/steel is sandblasting, etch, excellent epoxy primer and then top coat. The best success I've ever had with steel is sandblasting, zinc coating and then marine primer & top coat. Zinc coating is achieved with a spool gun and flame that melts the zinc and sprays it on the metal. Zinc coating from .001" to .010" is easy to apply.
Can't disagree, blasting to white metal followed by zinc, epoxy & topcoat is ideal. But, due to budget concerns, it's not an option. (Additionally, finding a yard that will allow sand blasting anymore is difficult!) I've ground out some of the areas of rust bleed and for the most part they're insignificant. Based on this, I believe a heavy sanding (80 grit or so) will adequately prepare the existing paint. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with Rustoleum, maybe using their clean metal primer followed by their Stop Rust paint. From what I read, Rustoleum was originally developed as a marine paint for steel fishing boats... Another alternative is to use a DeVoe system of Amerlock Sealer epoxy for a tie coat followed by 2-3 coats of Amercoat satin top coat.
RT Firefly
Enigma
Greetings,
Mr. M. I have no experience with metal boats but some with cars. For rust treatment you might consider a base coat of POR 15 paint to seal and then paint over with your choice of topcoats. I suspect the POR acid treatment is similar to Ospho.
https://www.por15.com/
Mr. M. I have no experience with metal boats but some with cars. For rust treatment you might consider a base coat of POR 15 paint to seal and then paint over with your choice of topcoats. I suspect the POR acid treatment is similar to Ospho.
https://www.por15.com/
Yep, used Ospho in the past for rusty metal. It's a rust converter, but is not a paint. I actually prefer Corroseal www.corroseal.com as a rust converter. Chemically it does the same thing as Ospho but it also primes and seals the rusted area with a latex paint. It can be left unpainted in areas like bilges, or can be painted over with just about any paint (expoxy, urethanes, acrylics, etc.).
Nomad Willy
Guru
What's the problem finding the right tool for the job?
Automotive oil for marine diesels and now kids bicycle paint for boat topsides.
Interlux Brightsides is a very good product as evidenced by countless posts on TF. The OP made no mention of using Interlux primer. It works wonders IMO. Brushes beautifully too.
Automotive oil for marine diesels and now kids bicycle paint for boat topsides.
Interlux Brightsides is a very good product as evidenced by countless posts on TF. The OP made no mention of using Interlux primer. It works wonders IMO. Brushes beautifully too.
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Scratchnsaw
Senior Member
I have never painted a steel hull boat with anything. But I use Rustoleum and even a so called generic brand, XO Rust from True Value hardware all the time. It holds up much better than the Brightsides and a ton cheaper. Currently its on two boats and my skiff went three years without a repaint. Its is much thicker too. So beware on vertical surfaces for some drapes or sags if you are not careful. SO thin it a bit as you go along or on big surfaces. In my previous experience with the Brighsides, it normally takes about four to six coats for it to hold up for any length of time.
MVNoPlans
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Rustoleum is a good product, it is readily available and it is at a good price point. I would use it without hesitation, especially since what you will be doing you will be redoing from time to time. Go for it. They also have some good primers that will work well, even for spot applications. I think it is called Rusty Metal Primer.
Sailor of Fortune
Guru
How long is a piece of string?
Brightsides will hold up for several years without the need to recoat. The nice thing is, you can touch up areas easily.
kenk
Senior Member
I used the Rustoleum marine topside paint with a little Majic Catalyst Hardener that I had in it. Sprayed it on and it came out very good, nice durable finish.
This was on my older boat that I sold. I talked to the guy that bought it and he said the finish still looks great after five years.
This was on my older boat that I sold. I talked to the guy that bought it and he said the finish still looks great after five years.
Sailor of Fortune
Guru
If your boat was moored in Albany, thats not much of a test. Saltwater and sun are what take a toll on marine finishes.
That’s why we use one parts other than on the metal, hull and big flat surfaces on Hobo. A dig or nick in the finish, get the can/jar with a foam brush for a quick repair. When it’s time to refinish, we don’t have to start all over to new wood.
