Fuel Tank Sight Glass Material

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He was vague on it. The rating on the USplastic hose is for 200 F. I suspect he would not approve that tubing.

Edit: Teflon would have a much higher temperature rating. Semi opaque would be okay.

Jim
 
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JDCAVE said:
He was vague on it. The rating on the USplastic hose is for 200 F. I suspect he would not approve that tubing.
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Show him the URL, without comment, and ask if this will satisfy his requirements. He is a professional surveyor so one would believe he would have a recommendation.

Let's face it, if the tank room get close to 200F, you have other problems.
Just keep the lower valve shut.

I would consider installing an upper valve if it makes him happy but, my boat has a paper plaque in the engine room specifying, the boat was in compliance with all rules and regulations at the time of construction.

My surveyor asked about the engine room fan to blow out bilge fumes prior to starting the engine. He seemed satisfied when I told him, that fan is not required on a diesel boat.
 
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OldDan1943 said:
Show him the URL, without comment, and ask if this will satisfy his requirements. He is a professional surveyor so one would believe he would have a recommendation.

Let's face it, if the tank room get close to 200F, you have other problems.
Just keep the lower valve shut.

I would consider installing an upper valve if it makes him happy but, my boat has a paper plaque in the engine room specifying, the boat was in compliance with all regulations at the time of construction.
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Ok I’ll try that. I have petcocks on both ends of the tube.

Jim
 
A side note for the AT34, I would have like to have fuel returns to either fuel tank. My boat has a return only to the port tank. Makes it impossible to install a fuel polishing system and moving fuel from port to the starboard tank without opening the cross connect.
 
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If the surveyor doesnt quote chapter and verse why its not OK and what it should be....

I would gave a field day dressing him down on expertise.

I may not know everything about boats, but in my prime in my previous life, if someone questioned my expertise...chapter, verse and solution followed....like an arrow to the heart.

As long as the shutoff petcocks/ valves are in the closed position except when seeing the fuel volume, it wouldnt matter if the tube was tissue paper. If they are push button valves like on the Azimuts I used to run, I bet I could convince the insurance company your surveyors worries are unfounded.
 
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Larry M said:
That’s what is on our site tubes. The specs say 165 degree f working temp but I couldn’t fine any data for the melting point. Do you have any more info?
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Don't want to lead you astray. Tygon IS vinyl, but specially compounded.
MSDS shows a flash point of 500 deg, but would have long since melted.
 
Don’t worry you haven’t led me a stray. lol

Jim: I’m with Scott. Have the surveyor show you the regs/ABYC/etc. that indicate that your site tube material is unacceptable.
 
Nobody has specially commented on Teflon tubing. Anyone?
 
Teflon, in my experience, is rather opaque, even when thin. And, when it does burn, it liberates toxic gas.

One could use rubber USCG type A fuel hose, and then simply detach the top end, and run it down until fuel leaks out the end. That's the level! :banghead:
 
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In the commercial world (American Bureau of shipping) they have to be made of glass. I don't know if its the same for ABYC or not.. I agree the surveyor should provide US code and a suitable substitute.
 
Glass certainly has its risks. If full of cold fuel, with valves shut top and bottom. Then the fuel heats and expands; it will want to shatter that glass. I see the top valve as a liability.

Glad you don't have me as a surveyor!!
 
diver dave said:
Glass certainly has its risks. If full of cold fuel, with valves shut top and bottom. Then the fuel heats and expands; it will want to shatter that glass. I see the top valve as a liability.

Glad you don't have me as a surveyor!!
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actually, that makes more sense to me...

but as I I posted before, as long as the lower valve is push to test (auto close), the little fuel in the tube...who gives a crap what it is made out of.

another safety rule with not much evidence proving its worth.
 
agreed. This comes after the hi-fog system, the doppler weather radar, and the auto close ER vents during the rollover.
 
Okay, took me a long time to find it but, here is Kurt's answer and I quote.

"Here is a link to the tubing we would recommend for replacing worn or damaged fuel tank sight glass.

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=37582

When removing old tubing, make sure not to use any sharp tools near the metal hose barb fittings. Any damage to the hose barb and the new tubing may not seal properly, leading to leakage.

US plastics sells this product by 10’ increments."

Okay, I'm all done.
 
diver dave said:
Glass certainly has its risks. If full of cold fuel, with valves shut top and bottom. Then the fuel heats and expands; it will want to shatter that glass. I see the top valve as a liability.

Glad you don't have me as a surveyor!!
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Glass is required whether you agree with it or not. Without ABS blessing (certificate) all operations stop.The CG is in charge of this with ABS surveyors doing the inspections.
Maybe other materials are approved as well.
 
Markel now allows customers to do their own recurrent insurance surveys. This surveyor nonsense needs to stop. Complain to your insurer. And as stated earlier, ABYC is a recommended guideline for new construction.
 
stubones99 said:
Is anyone interested in a milled aluminum channel with slots to see the fuel level in the sight tube? What I was thinking was something about like a shelf standard with elongated slots to see the tubing. Run it from the top L to the bottom L and clamp it to the band clamps perhaps, or devise a T shaped mounting system that would secure to the tank wall or backboard and physically bolt to the channel. If something fell on the channel, it would protect the tubing. In the event of fire, it would protect the tubing from radiated heat. None of the mentioned tubings are over the 185 degree melting point, and I think ABYC requires 300 degrees for 30 minutes? I'll have to check on that.

So, is anyone interested?
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Our '89 Ocean Alexander came factory equipped with this design.
 
LOL
I bought some proper sight glass plastic tubing from my favourite Marine store. Recommended by the very knowledgeable owner of the store. I put it on my home heating oil tank, in the furnace room at my house. When I had some work done there, the furnace guy was appalled and took it out. He replaced it with a little pop up indicator gauge on the top of the tank. Said it was unsafe!
Careful who you believe.
I don't like the guessing I now need to do. Last fill, according to the new gauge, I was down to 1/4 full. According to the pump truck, I was at almost 1/2.
Next time I get the chance I think I will buy the tubing again.
 
For home systems, they make a float gauge that fits in the top of the tanks too.
Not approved for marine use.
 
psneeld said:
actually, that makes more sense to me...



but as I I posted before, as long as the lower valve is push to test (auto close), the little fuel in the tube...who gives a crap what it is made out of.



another safety rule with not much evidence proving its worth.
Click to expand...



I like the idea of a push to test valve. I’ve not seen one before.
 
AusCan said:
There are plenty fuel level senders & gauges you can buy for marine use which are ABYC H-24 compliant.


Moeller Marine are one manufacturer.
Fuel Senders & Gauges | Moeller Marine
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Based upon my experience with 3 remote types, none are worth spit. You really want to know? Sight glass and that is only as good as the initial mathematical calibration.
 
OldDan1943 said:
Based upon my experience with 3 remote types, none are worth spit. You really want to know? Sight glass and that is only as good as the initial mathematical calibration.
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I agree. They tend to have a very short lifespan. That's why I've never considered a remote gauge. I was just pointing out that they are available.

A sight glass is nice and simple. I installed a single one on my (normally isolated) equalizing line between the two tanks, and a gauge board behind it marked off in litres. It monitors both tanks and also has a tee off which serves as my water drain point.
 
Simple and safe is a tank tender fuel gauge.

They can be read from the bridge and can monitor more than just the fuel level.
 
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