floor panel question?

I am installing a new lift muffler next weekend . I would like to make a new floor panel for it to set on. it's around 20" square .. so my questions are.

1 .what material/plywood should I use . (hopefully available at a big box store )
2. what finish can I use that will last and protect the wood .( my ER is white)

I may have a piece of 3/4 starboard but that seems like overkill . and I would like to be able to match it later if I paint the entire ER later

thanks

It needs to be rot-proof. I'd suggest using marine ply with a couple coats of epoxy. Then you can paint it with whatever the rest of your engine room or bilge is finished with.

A long long time ago I had to replace a water lift muffler. I couldn't get one the same height as the original, so I took a yellow milk crate, inverted it, cut it down on the angle of the floor, and put the new WLM on it. It remains there to this day, without any further thought.

When I redid the engine room, I removed what was there and then glassed in new platforms. I used 1/2” marine plywood. I added a cleat across the front for strength. The platform was then glassed to the hull. I added two layers of biaxial cloth on the edges. The exterior was then painted with a couple of coats of epoxy for additional waterproofing.

I made templates to get the size I wanted and for the fit against the hull.

auscan
I was just replacing the board I brought the old one home for a template.
I guess I should change the supports too. what kind on wood should I attach to the structure for the plywood to set on. I need to practice with epoxy before I paint my mast anyway .

Larry
wow that is a good looking Er I that would make it easier to clean. mine bridges the entire span and the next panel is not removable ether it had an oil furnace on it . what did you paint it with I think mine may be gelcoat .but it is coming loose form the hull.

koliver
I have a lot of fixes like that on the one in the yard trying to do better with this one but it is breaking me.

timb said:

...Larry... what did you paint it wcould take high moisture, we have a wet bigleith I think mine may be gelcoat .but it is coming loose form the hull....

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We used Sherwin-Williams Sea Guard 5000 HS Epoxy. It was recommended by the yard and so far so good. We wanted something that could take a wet bilge, easy to apply and durable. If I don't like it, I can give it a light sanding, degrease and over coat with pretty much anything.

https://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26504%3Aproduct-6939

starboard isnt really structural.

plywood nowadays all uses the same glue, at least exterior and marine, marine is just a little more solid without voids,.

Exterior or even interior ply is fine if coated eith epoxy and holes made that prevent water ingress.

It’s a little more expensive but I prefer starboard in damp environments

tiltrider1 said:

It’s a little more expensive but I prefer starboard in damp environments

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Get a 1/2 sheet of 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4. You can stack them as necessary.

They will stow very nicely under the mattress.

I've been using Home Despot's Sandeply, no doubt made in Red China, or maybe South America, for all sorts of projects in boats and at home. It's some tropical hardwood with barely adequate amounts of waterproof glue. For use on the boat, I coat it out with epoxy and ensure that screwholes etc are completely sealed with the epoxy.

As mentioned starboard is not structural so depending on the weight being put on it, it may sag unless you put some support under the middle. I would go with 3/4” plywood. Cut it to fit and coat with epoxy to seal the wood and paint. I use Interlux Bilge Coat for things like that, but there are lots of paints that will work. I would save the starboard for projects that are more visible and less structural. It is too expensive to waste a piece that big when plywood will work better for structure.

Larry M said:

We used Sherwin-Williams Sea Guard 5000 HS Epoxy. It was recommended by the yard and so far so good. We wanted something that could take a wet bilge, easy to apply and durable. If I don't like it, I can give it a light sanding, degrease and over coat with pretty much anything.

https://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26504%3Aproduct-6939

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Larry
I can't find anywhere to buy that paint .when I shop my sw store it doesn't show up .I'll call them tomorrow . one page I found it on said discontinued . too bad if it is. I saw where it was rated for inside fuel tanks.

Lowes has birch plywood 2'x2' on clearance for 6$ would that work with an epoxy coating .
also what solid wood 1x1 should I use for the ledge to mount it on ? or should I leave the old there it is soaked but not rotten and may be dried out by the time I get back.it has no coating or paint on it.

the old ss muffler was rotted out it looked like they used a mild steel welding rod. I'm going back with fiberglass. it shouldn't be all that heavy

this is what I ordered but not where I ordered it from.it should be here Tuesday
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/centek-vernalift-side-in-top-out-muffler-1500087

timb said:

this is what I ordered but not where I ordered it from.it should be here Tuesday
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/centek-vernalift-side-in-top-out-muffler-1500087

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Make sure you put a drain at the bottom edge.

When would I need to drain it?

The recommendations I was given are, 'after 3 failed start, drain the water from the muffler'
My guess, it has to do with the back pressure on the engine as the exhaust pushes against the unusual volume of water inside the muffler.
Could be one of the many 'old wives tails'. Only once was I presented with that decision. I drained the muffler, took less than 10 minutes.
I do not know if draining the muffler is part of winterizing the boat but, it does sound like a good idea.

I believe the reason for a drain plug is to prevent backflooding the engine. When cold cranking you are pumping water into the lift but there are no exhaust gases to push the water out. After extended cranking the concern is that the muffler will fill with water and the water will start to creep up the exhaust hose towards the turbo/manifold outlet. not good.

Being in South Florida I am not at all familiar with "winterizing" but draining for winter storage sounds reasonable.

The unit you purchased has a drain

OldDan1943 said:

The recommendations I was given are, 'after 3 failed start, drain the water from the muffler'
My guess, it has to do with the back pressure on the engine as the exhaust pushes against the unusual volume of water inside the muffler.
Could be one of the many 'old wives tails'. Only once was I presented with that choice. I drained the muffler, took less than 10 minutes.
I do not know if draining the muffler is part of winterizing the boat but, it does sound like a good idea.

Click to expand...

Thanks I .may drill and tap the stainless 180 above it so it will vent and drain faster.

It looks like the vent will be in the worst possible location .the way it's going to be installed. I may cut a 2" hole below it

ok I have my plywood epoxied ( I've had 3 heaters going for 3 days). now I need to paint it .I couldn't get the paint Larry m used it has a 40 gallon minimum from sw .I have 4 other choices .

1. I bought a can of white appliance paint in a spray can
2. I have a quart of easypoxy white that I bought to do my mast with . but think now I will use perfection for the mast .
3. any thing I can get at Lowes off the shelf.
4. anything sw non commercial store has on the shelf .

thanks for the help so far

look better than the old. But not perfect.