RT Firefly
Enigma
Get r done...
Aftercooler Maintenance
- Thread starter Moonzy1
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Dougcole
Guru
Very informative post, thanks for putting it up. I considered doing them myself on my 4LHAs, but in the end I decided to let a mechanic do it. This thread may have saved me a boat buck if it had showed up earlier.
Moonzy1
Senior Member
Jim
Happy to help you in any way i can. Perhaps I will make a video when I reinstall.
If you decide to tackle it Feel free to PM me and ill get you my email and cell.
Pop the aft endcap off and take a look to get an idea of its condition.
Disclamer: I am not a mechanic but this particular job is not complicated. A matter of unbolting, cleaning, and reinstall.
There are a couple of things I would do next time to make it even easier. Like pour "SEA FOAM" in the cooler before I removed the cartridge to pre clean the fins. I suspect that seafoam left to soak overnight would likely be all you needed to do to the air side. That stuff cuts through the soot like a hot knife through butter.
I also ordered some matching replacement O-rings from McMAster Carr. They are coming today so I will compare. $10 for 5 vs the 23.00/ o-ring from yanmar
sunchaser
Guru
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2008
- Messages
- 10,194
- Location
- usa
- Vessel Name
- sunchaser V
- Vessel Make
- DeFever 48 (sold)
Moonzy
You adroitly accomplished two very important things. First the recognition that ACs require servicing. Secondly, the "get-up and go" to move forward
The rest of us, especially Yanmar owners, take note!
You adroitly accomplished two very important things. First the recognition that ACs require servicing. Secondly, the "get-up and go" to move forward
The rest of us, especially Yanmar owners, take note!
RT Firefly
Enigma
Greetings,
Mr. M1. VERY nicely done. I've heard all sorts of "magical" claims about SeaFoam but your experience is first hand.
MSDS lists the ingredients (SeaFoam) as: Hydrocarbon blend and Isopropanol. Not much different than a lot of other engine "additives".
I wonder if a parts cleaner would work as well? I use this stuff to soak my carbs... https://www.amazon.com/CRC-14101-Carburetor-Parts-Cleaner/dp/B000BXHVQ2
Mr. M1. VERY nicely done. I've heard all sorts of "magical" claims about SeaFoam but your experience is first hand.
MSDS lists the ingredients (SeaFoam) as: Hydrocarbon blend and Isopropanol. Not much different than a lot of other engine "additives".
I wonder if a parts cleaner would work as well? I use this stuff to soak my carbs... https://www.amazon.com/CRC-14101-Carburetor-Parts-Cleaner/dp/B000BXHVQ2
Why would you use Sea Foam BEFORE removing the core if you are still going to remove it anyway? Wouldn't it be easier to remove the core 1st and use Sea Foam once it's out?
Moonzy1
Senior Member
Perhaps. Cant hurt to try I guess. I hit it w a can of carb cleaner too. It worked but I went thru a lot and the fumes were getting bad.
I used to use seafoam on my outboards and it always did the job. Thats why I had a few bottle around to try.
thanks
Moonzy1
Senior Member
Great question.
Because the cooler housing is the perfect container to soak the core without having to buy 5 gallons of seafoam.
You can lay the housing on its side w the inlet and outlet facing the sky and fill ea side up to cover the core w the seafoam.
You need to fill ea side though because there is a metal partition, midpoint on the cooler cartridge (refer to a previous pic) that separates both sides..
you will give the housing a good cleaning this way too.
Id soak it overnight and then blow it out w compressed air into a towel or something.
Ill post a before and after seafoam shot
Last edited:
Moonzy1
Senior Member
Of you look on the lower left portion of the cartridge you will see it black and sooty on the rt half and then copper clean rt next to it.
And all i did was pour the seafoam bottle through it once.
Now im assuming whatever they used to soak it at the radiator shop loosened it a bit. But maybe the seafoam is just that effective. Either way, an overnight soak should get it very clean.
sorry pic flipped
im referring to the rt end of the cartridge
And all i did was pour the seafoam bottle through it once.
Now im assuming whatever they used to soak it at the radiator shop loosened it a bit. But maybe the seafoam is just that effective. Either way, an overnight soak should get it very clean.
sorry pic flipped
im referring to the rt end of the cartridge
Lepke
Guru
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2016
- Messages
- 3,033
- Location
- US
- Vessel Name
- Charlie Harper
- Vessel Make
- Wheeler Shipyard 83'
Another method for cleaning mating surfaces is a large, fine, flat file. You can span across most openings and caps from several directions, keeping the surface uniform and square. I think is as easy or easier than a sander, and all the debris can be cleaned up instead of flung everywhere. If necessary you can remove small dips and bumps in a controlled way.
Moonzy1
Senior Member
Just another headsup
I ordered O-Rings from McMaster Carr that match the dimensions of the Yanmar cooler ORings.
I have to say I see no difference in texture or feel. Theses are also Bun-O Rings which are a reputable company. They are spec'd out as a sealing gasket w a hardness of 70A.
These are a 10 for $9.95
Yanmar are 23.00 ea
Just sayin
I ordered O-Rings from McMaster Carr that match the dimensions of the Yanmar cooler ORings.
I have to say I see no difference in texture or feel. Theses are also Bun-O Rings which are a reputable company. They are spec'd out as a sealing gasket w a hardness of 70A.
These are a 10 for $9.95
Yanmar are 23.00 ea
Just sayin
Moonzy1
Senior Member
Reinstalled today
sunchaser
Guru
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2008
- Messages
- 10,194
- Location
- usa
- Vessel Name
- sunchaser V
- Vessel Make
- DeFever 48 (sold)
Moonzy
I note your exhaust elbow appears to have the water addition before the riser break over. Maybe the picture is distorted but that seems worth looking into if it is indeed low on the uphill side.
I note your exhaust elbow appears to have the water addition before the riser break over. Maybe the picture is distorted but that seems worth looking into if it is indeed low on the uphill side.
Moonzy1
Senior Member
It does from the pic
Ill check it out... This is factory from Albemarle though. Its never been touched so im sure its ok.
But duly noted!
You should be aware that the factory- the boat builder, installs the exhaust system not Yanmar and many are marginal. A good exhaust system should have at least 12" of clearance above the water line to the the top of the lower wall of the riser; ie the spill over height. It also should self drain.
Yours may be low and it probably doesn't self drain.
It looks like you have plenty of room to extend the riser upwards. Get some dimensions and post here. You will need the water line clearance and the distance from the top of the riser to the bottom of the engine hatch.
I can help with designing a better exhaust system that solves both problems as I did this on my Mainship Pilot 34.
David
Yours may be low and it probably doesn't self drain.
It looks like you have plenty of room to extend the riser upwards. Get some dimensions and post here. You will need the water line clearance and the distance from the top of the riser to the bottom of the engine hatch.
I can help with designing a better exhaust system that solves both problems as I did this on my Mainship Pilot 34.
David
Last edited:
Moonzy1
Senior Member
Hey David!
Because of you I was able to do this a/cooler job. Thank you!
Ill take you up on that. Let me get some better pics this week and come back to you.
Thanks so much
C
Because of you I was able to do this a/cooler job. Thank you!
Ill take you up on that. Let me get some better pics this week and come back to you.
Thanks so much
C
