THICK super glue

Greetings,
I have to re-glue some thin (1/8" ply with veneer) teak back onto the substrate (ply). I have some lifting of seams and edges, I suspect, due to humidity. While I can lift the edges enough to introduce some sort of adhesive, there is no way to clamp or apply pressure to the seam. So, what I am looking for is a thickened instant set glue that I can apply and press for a short period of time (seconds rather than minutes) and have it stick/set. Some heavier viscosity material would be best to fill any potential voids and insure "stickum-ness"
I'm sure there IS such a product as a net search has revealed a plethora of choices BUT which one please? Big box store availability would be the handiest.
Thanks in advance.

I don't favor superglue for wood, but it does come thickened models.
So, you can't brush in contact cement, let the solvent evap, and then smash together?

Another option is Gorilla glue. It expands as it cures. But, its not very fast, so maybe a no go for you.


I've run into precious few things that can't be somehow held together for gluing. I glued plywood to a deck from the cabin side, and had to use a lot of sticks, for instance.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ5EO2E/ref=asc_df_B00CJ5EO2E5366289/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00CJ5EO2E&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193154321880&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1470521823526525946&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005583&hvtargid=pla-308919617888

This wasn't the type gorilla I was referring to, but it reads like what you are asking for.

Sounds like it might be on a vertical wall?

I have used two 1x2's or similar sliding against each other all the way across from an opposing wall with a clamp to hold them together at a certain length with a bit of pressure on either end.

Also another trick I have used (may not be practical) is used hot glue as an immediate hold-down for something I was otherwise gluing up with epoxy. Need to have a "close-by" area for the hot glue - like a dab of hot glue in a circular opening of epoxy surrounding.....

This works great with teak, its at home depot...

Rufus, I’d use solvent based (not water) contact cement. Open it up as much as you can, brush the cement on both surfaces, let it dry, press it together, done.
I would just buy a little bottle of Weldwood Contact Cement. It comes with a brush in the cap. Any hardware store should have it.
Weldwood Contact Cement - DAP

HopCar said:

Rufus, I’d use solvent based (not water) contact cement. Open it up as much as you can, brush the cement on both surfaces, let it dry, press it together, done.
I would just buy a little bottle of Weldwood Contact Cement. It comes with a brush in the cap. Any hardware store should have it.
Weldwood Contact Cement - DAP

Click to expand...

Yes, my thought too. I've even used toothpicks to push in the cement on things like formica edges on plywood.

I like the Gorilla Super glue. It works and doesn’t dry up during storage.

How bout hot glue?

Greetings,
To answer the GREAT suggestions thus far...

Contact cement: Yes, I may be able to introduce some glue behind the "veneer" but I don't want to stress that thin layer too much and have it let go somewhere else. Due to the geometry of the loose sheet, I don't think I would be able to introduce sufficient glue far enough into the "void" to glue the whole works down. (some areas she's let go 8" to 10" from the edge)

I agree, solvent based rather than water based whatever I use. Part of the potential problem is getting a thin, smooth layer behind the loose stuff so when I press it down, there isn't a lump. I've already tried spray contact cement which minimized the lump problem but it didn't seem there was enough "body" to the cement to effect a permanent bond.

Clamping/applying pressure. Well, I've thought about various levers, braces, clamps (REALLY long ones) and the only way to apply the most pressure is not viable with the material I have at hand. I would probably need about 30+ running feet of 1"X2".

Hot glue. Again, with the lumps AND introducing enough glue to effect a repair sufficiently far into the void.

I DO like the <1min epoxy (Thanks Mr. wb) and the stuff Mr. dd suggested (post #3-Thanks). I am currently without wheels so I expect a trip to HD is in the offing when I get mobile again BUT keep those letters and cards coming folks.

You would not need such long lumber if you wedged a piece vertically and used it as the opposite pressure point.

RT Firefly said:

and have it let go somewhere else. Due to the geometry of the loose sheet, I don't think I would be able to introduce sufficient glue far enough into the "void" to glue the whole works down. (some areas she's let go 8" to 10" from the edge)

Click to expand...

I have used these for this application with good success:

https://www.amazon.com/Applicator-Syringe-Industrial-Assorted-Stainless/dp/B01ECIVAFE/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pack-1ml...uge-1-1-2-w-Caps-DIY-Liquid-Glue/201913492198

I have used hypodermic syringes to inject small quantities of various goops into small spaces. The needles should be thin enough to get in without too much lifting force.
Put a felt pen mark on the barrel after fitting the needle so you know which way the ground bevel points and then you can orient that bevel to apply small beads on the face.

You should be able to fill the syringe body with contact adhesive or epoxy.

The vertical 2 x 4 jammed/wedged could be used with wedges or sticks then between it and the veneer face. How about a piece [ or several] of ply that that apply even pressure from the battens.

I would also consider some waxed paper between the veneer and the pressure pads to ensure the pads do not also get glued into place.

If you used a thermal glue and waxed paper on the top, a steam iron would help even out the lumps and get a better bond.

RT,

I have thinned contact cement with lacquer thinner with good results. Much easier to apply but takes a little longer to dry.

Rob

I once used 2 glues, at the same time,to glue a piece of timber(for attaching a bracket for a radio) underneath the f/g deck.I used both epoxy and superglue, theory was the superglue would hold while the epoxy set. It worked.
There are "fast grab" building adhesives which might do the job. You can introduce adhesive, using a thin bladed knife,into the separated area.

I have been using "Hot Stuff" C.A. glue with the accelerator in my professional wood working shop for twenty years with good results. It is available in several viscosities. The accelerator will give near instant gratification.

I used a needle board to hold down a teak strip while the glue set


https://www.google.com.au/search?q=...2rxp_ZAhVEv5QKHQYVDz4QsAQIOQ&biw=1680&bih=894

Hey Bud,
Having used CA glue in model building for over 30 years, it’s a great product for wood,
Read this https://www.greatplanes.com/faq/adhesives.php

Almost any hobby supplier and maybe even Amazon could supply you with the product. As well as Accelerator’s. A tip Ive used many times is if you need a filler with CA glue’s just sprinkle on baking soda, speeds up the setting and fills in great.

Hope this helps you a bit.

As others have said, Cyanoacrylate, CA, super glue works very well for wood and will do the job. The thickened varieties take a bit longer to set (say 30 seconds for the thickest). High end modellers use those glues to glue pretty much everything (wood, metal, glass, plastics, etc.). I know because I was a high end modeller until two years ago and I am looking at a 20 year old model right now that was glued with CA glue.

Greetings,
Update on my OP. I purchased the Gorilla CA (gel formula) as suggested by Mr. dd (post #3) and a tube of this stuff: Power Grab Express Interior Construction Adhesive from Loctite Adhesives
Very preliminary attempts are positive. Thanks all for your input. The BIG jobs (relatively speaking) are still to come but I'm doing the "baby step" routine.