Pgitug
Guru
I would like to add extra insulation around my refrigerator/ freezer to help reduce the compressor run time and keep a more even cold temperature. Any ideas on what to use and how to attach it?
How Best To Insulate Ref/Freezer?
- Thread starter Pgitug
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Comodave
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How much room do you have around the refer? Have you looked into ventilation around it or adding a DC fan to move air around the back?
Polyiso rigid sheets for best R-value, corners and gaps filled with a closed-cell spray.
Not only ensuring that ventilating the hot bits don't get blocked, but adding to that will help a lot as well.
Measure AH per 24 hours before and after, similar loads, temps and opening patterns, and report back here!
Not only ensuring that ventilating the hot bits don't get blocked, but adding to that will help a lot as well.
Measure AH per 24 hours before and after, similar loads, temps and opening patterns, and report back here!
OP
OP
Pgitug
Guru
OP
OP
Pgitug
Guru
I heard of using this material. I did not know about using the spray foam for attaching. [emoji106]
FF
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There may be condensation from the fridge ,
so even tho other insulation has a better R value (dry) the blue sheet stuff 1/4 or 1/2 thick is usually the best.
It will drain and dry out , wet insulation has a lousey R value.
Spray foam almost never gets its claimed R value as the foam is measured expanding in free space , not in a confined area.
so even tho other insulation has a better R value (dry) the blue sheet stuff 1/4 or 1/2 thick is usually the best.
It will drain and dry out , wet insulation has a lousey R value.
Spray foam almost never gets its claimed R value as the foam is measured expanding in free space , not in a confined area.
Comodave
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The A/C is only moving air when it is running. Do you have a DC fan hooked up to the refer compressor so that when ever the refer is running there is air flow to remove the heat around the compressor. I just added one to my refer, don’t know exactly how much difference it will make yet. You can usually get power for the fan off the refer itself. That way the fan comes on when the compressor runs. We also added a vent low in the compartment since there was already a vent high so that air can flow in the bottom and out the top. I put the fan blowing in on the bottom vent and it blows across the compressor area. The fan only draws 50 millie amps.
I considered adding insulation to my refrigerator but the way if fits in the cabinet, there is no space for it. Check on this before you plan to add insulation.
And remember that someday you will need to remove the refrigerator for service. Don't make this impossible.
And remember that someday you will need to remove the refrigerator for service. Don't make this impossible.
Well there are two ways to do that: internal and external insulation.
You can really only add external insulation to the sides, top and maybe the bootom. You can't add insulation to the front, and part of the back.
Adding insulation inside will be messy unless you really work at it and it will reduce interior room. For a sailboat ice boax with a Danfoss fridge plate I used polyiso foam that I carefully cut and used caulk (you have to be careful and use one that won't dissolve the foam) to attach the panels and seal the edges. It worked but the soft foam was exposed and would get beat up after a while.
To do it right, install the foam and then cover with thin fiberglass panels and caulk the edges. This will give a clean, smooth interior but is a lot of work to cut out the panels just right to fit closely. You will probably have to make cardboard templates.
'
As noted above if you don't run your A/C all of the time and I presume you don't other wise why are you worrying with 110v power available, then install a DC fan in the back to improve cooling efficiency. Also look at air flow and make sure that the fridge isn't boxed in.
David
You can really only add external insulation to the sides, top and maybe the bootom. You can't add insulation to the front, and part of the back.
Adding insulation inside will be messy unless you really work at it and it will reduce interior room. For a sailboat ice boax with a Danfoss fridge plate I used polyiso foam that I carefully cut and used caulk (you have to be careful and use one that won't dissolve the foam) to attach the panels and seal the edges. It worked but the soft foam was exposed and would get beat up after a while.
To do it right, install the foam and then cover with thin fiberglass panels and caulk the edges. This will give a clean, smooth interior but is a lot of work to cut out the panels just right to fit closely. You will probably have to make cardboard templates.
'
As noted above if you don't run your A/C all of the time and I presume you don't other wise why are you worrying with 110v power available, then install a DC fan in the back to improve cooling efficiency. Also look at air flow and make sure that the fridge isn't boxed in.
David
