Repairs so far this year

So far this year:
<ul>[*]Genset zinc replaced[*]150 blisters repaired and bottom painted[*]Port and stbd rudder logs replaced[*]Both rudder shafts replaced due to crevice coorision.[*]Air Cond and Waste tank thru hulls replaced[*]Stbd rudder cracks repaired[*]GPS sensor replaced[*]Windlass replaced[*]port engine impeller replaced[*]port fuel sending unit replaced[*]Port and Stbd fuel tank selector valves replaced[*]A/C pump replaced[*]A/C rear circuit board repaired[/list]

...........and only 2 1/2 months to go

well there were a few more but these were the main ones.

I don't even want to know what all this costs.

Fuel at 1 mpg is by far the cheapest expense so far.

And I just noticed my stbd tranny pressure is fluctuating at cruise rpm.....

Isn't boating fun??

Sorry to hear so much work has been needed. At least when you are done she will be hopefully running good!

Woodsong wrote:
*At least when you are done she will be hopefully running good!

Click to expand...

*Done......... when does that happen??

Actually the boat is running good. Most of the items repaired or replaced where to bring the new to us boat up to what I wanted.

I hope the tranny issue is a bad pressure sending unit.


-- Edited by timjet on Thursday 13th of October 2011 09:36:11 AM

timjet wrote:Woodsong wrote:
*At least when you are done she will be hopefully running good!

Click to expand...

*Done......... when does that happen??

Actually the boat is running good. Most of the items repaired or replaced

*

We were "discussing" this last weekend at the marina. The cycle is

Run it...break it...fix it.

jleonard wrote:*

Click to expand...

Run it...break it...fix it.

*LMOA. Man that one is good

Short list:
1. April: Raw water pump replaced.
2. August: Hurricane Irene busted up my swim platform. Repairs on hold.
3. September: House and starting batteries replaced.
4. October: Currently in the yard for repair of broken shaft coupling, hoping repair and shaft alignment are the only problems.

Boat bucks are adding up....

-Stripping, Fairing and re-paint of 16" stripe area, teak cap rail, coamings, side boards.*

-New veranda and wind-break canvas, screens, eisenglass, windlass cover, etc..

-New Gold Leaf vinyl lettering on transom and side boards

-New starter battery

-New twin 8D house batteries

-Bottom job, no blisters present, but two more coats of Trinidad

-New boot stripe

-Recon and varnish veranda teak cap rail and overhead

-New windlass

-A/C pump

-New Fireboy system in Engine Room

-New Nav lights for side boards

-Replumb of waste system

-Entire fresh water replumb underway

-Large repair of damaged teak area (from water hose detachment at shower faucet) also underway.

Still to do this year:

**-Rebedding of Stanchions and bow pulpit

**-Rebuilding or replacement of hardtop

*

That's all I can think of off the cuff. *Thanks for this depressing reminder.

This year so far----

Change injector pump oil on both engines.

Replace engine raw water impellers.

Overhaul propane system connections in the propane locker.

Replace very old aqueous foam fire extinguishers in the main cabin with a new, large CO2 extinguisher and mount.

Install new drain fittings in the fiberglass riser muffler for each engine (this was the only job hired out).


To these must be added the continuing refinishing of the boat's external teak but I don't view that as a repair or even work as I enjoy working with the wood.

healhustler wrote:
-New twin 8D house batteries

Click to expand...

*Man I have one 8D for my house I run a TV to watch movies The Espar and the Garmin almost continually. I have yet to run anything down to a need to charge.

Do you anchor out a lot?

The way I cruise is usually go where I'm going. Hang out for the weekend. Back to the harbor.

I have a Balmar 75 to charge with.

I also have a Link 20 batteries monitor. I love the thing. Tells me everything I could ever want to know about my batteries.

Have you ever run the 8D's down?

SD

skipperdude wrote:
Have you ever run the 8D's down?

Click to expand...

When we used to have an 8D for the house power we ran it down to just about nothing one night by forgetting to turn the engine room lights off.* After that we installed a bright yellow light on the DC panel on the helm console that goes on when the engine room lights go on.

Last year we finally got rid of the boat's two 8Ds and replaced them with six 6vdc golf cart batteries.* Each 8D battery box will hold three GC batteries so we didn't have to modify the battery boxes or the boat's wiring at all.* Two pairs of the GC batteries are wired to be our house battery, which provides twice the amp hours of an 8D.* The other pair of GC batteries are wired to be our start battery.

Getting rid of the 8Ds has been one of the best improvements we've made to the boat in the 13 years we've owned it.


-- Edited by Marin on Thursday 13th of October 2011 02:06:38 PM

The light thing is a great idea.

*I have done the same it required running some x-tra wire but I have a light for every system on the boat if a switch is on a light comes on on my main panel.

The light even comes on when someone flushes the toilet.

I used small LED's the main cost was running all that wire.

When I shut the boat down all I have to do is make sure all lights are off. That way I know for sure all systems are shut down. I used mostly the pull on switches. I hated having to go push every switch to be sure the power was off. I used LED so as to not burn out bulbs and leave a system on by mistake. A red light means hot no light Not

SD*

We always turn all the boat's DC power off when we leave it. So it's just a matter of running a finger down the vertical row of breakers to make sure they're all in the off position and then turn the battery selector to off. The only thing that stays on is the AC side, and over there only the refrigerator remains on except in the winter when we leave the port and starboard AC outlet circuits on for the heaters. The smart charger part of the Heart inverter stays on, too, of course.

Replace engine sensors

Replace engine water pump

Replace windshield wiper blades

Rebed port forward portion of stainless steel strip on rub rail

Replace bow thruster electronics

Apply primer to portions of hull bottom

To do:

Re-engineer chain-locker drain

Address "singing" propeller issue

Redo flag halyards

markpierce wrote:
Replace engine sensors

Replace engine water pump

Replace windshield wiper blades

Rebed port forward portion of stainless steel strip on rub rail

Replace bow thruster electronics

Apply primer to portions of hull bottom

To do:

Re-engineer chain-locker drain

Address "singing" propeller issue

Redo flag halyards

Click to expand...

********** Hey Mark,* How much of this was fixed by SeaHorse Marine?

********* Just Curious?** JohnP

skipperdude wrote:*I hated having to go push every switch to be sure the power was off.

Click to expand...

****** My boat has a main DC breaker that kills all DC power except the bilge pumps which are wired directly to the batts and in the "auto' position. While in the slip, the AC remains on, of course.


-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Thursday 13th of October 2011 03:49:18 PM

JohnP wrote:

Click to expand...

********** Hey Mark,* How much of this was fixed by SeaHorse Marine?

********* Just Curious?** JohnP

The work is being done by KKMI in Richmond, CA.* Seahorse reimbursement is*to be determined, but not much.* The builder is in China and the warranty is limited.* I knew this when purchasing the boat there to save several*tens of thousands in construction costs.* John Deere*is paying for the water pump replacement.* At the very least I expect Seahorse to reimburse for applying primer on the hull bottom it missed during construction (there was only bottom paint on steel rudder and hull*areas covered by cradle during construction).* Might get partial reimbursement on other issues.

SeaHorse II wrote:skipperdude wrote:*I hated having to go push every switch to be sure the power was off.

Click to expand...

****** My boat has a main DC breaker that kills all DC power except the bilge pumps which are wired directly to the batts and in the "auto' position. While in the slip, the AC remains on, of course.



-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Thursday 13th of October 2011 03:49:18 PM

*Walt if I knew what I was doing when I built the boat I would have done something like that.

It's like. *NO!! *really you can do that. I had no idea

SD

From my maintenance log:

1/11 Install brass slider lock on stbd door
1/11 Replace Start battery
1/11 Repair Port Fuel Tank Leak
1/11 Replace House Batts (New 6 GC Bank)
1/11 Recable batt banks
1/11 Install Stovetop Cutting Board
2/11 Install new Perko Switches
2/11 Install Yandina Combiner
2/11 Stain refrigerator trim
3/11 Recable Alternators
4/11 Recable Inverter w/ new fuse
4/11 Add 90 ft anchor chain
4/11 Install Liquid Caddy Cup Holders
4/11 Install LED lights (x3) in staterooms and (x2) cockpit
4/11 Install new CO Detector in salon
4/11 Install Wifi Wireless router
4/11 Install new fans master stateroom and lower helm
4/11 Install rear Bose speakers (salon)
5/11 Stain helm footrest
5/11 hired out: Replaced hydraulic steering seals and PS fluid at both helms
6/11 Replaced head
6/11 Replaced RW washdown pump and toilet inlet hoses from seacock
6/11 Replace sanitation hoses and vent line
6/11 Replace Fwd bilge pump
7/11 Install New Haier 12V HDTV
7/11 Install Battery Monitor
7/11 Install fresh and holding tank monitors
7/11 Added Water Miser Battery Safety caps
7/11 Install lazarette hinges
7/11 Remove CB radio and old stereo
9/11 Install new Alpine FB speakers

SeaHorse II wrote:

Click to expand...

"My boat has a main DC breaker that kills all DC power except the bilge pumps which are wired directly to the batts and in the 'auto' position."

Click to expand...

Likewise mine. However, my Xantrex mystery meter still shows a .9 to 1.2 amp draw, while showing batteries having full voltage and in "float" mode, with EVERYTHING switched off.

Click to expand...

Drives me nuts (as the pirate said when asked what was with the steering wheel in his crotch).

Click to expand...

markpierce wrote:
Re-engineer chain-locker drain

Click to expand...

*Mark:

Your anchor locker drain problem has been on my mind since you first mentioned it.

I blew up some old pictures of my "drain", both running and out of the water. Note how far up from the boot top my drain is compared to yours. It's even out of the water when "running". (Although you can't see it in the Running photo, you can see how close it is to being on the same horizontal line of the splash rail.) It is also facing aft as is yours.

Just saying.






-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Thursday 13th of October 2011 06:41:06 PM

The anchor locker drains on newer GBs are similar in position to Walt's. Older GBs, like ours, simply drained the anchor locker into the bilge so have no external drain fitting at all. A drain down by the waterline would seem to be a bad idea, particularly on a slow boat, as this opening will be underwater all the time.

skipperdude wrote:healhustler wrote:
-New twin 8D house batteries

Click to expand...

*Man I have one 8D for my house I run a TV to watch movies The Espar and the Garmin almost continually. I have yet to run anything down to a need to charge.

Do you anchor out a lot?

Have you ever run the 8D's down?

SD

*Skip: *My decision to replace the old 8D's with fresh units was a purely patronizing one to not change the system before I understood it. *The windlass and bow thruster have 20 -25 ft. runs of cable on these batteries in addition to the house draw, and the old ones were shot. *I plan on cruising full time in two years, and at that time, I'll likely can the 8D's for smaller, more efficient NO MAINT. gels. *I gotta tell ya, I can still handle and lift and 8D, but I'm wondering if I'll be able to swap them out next time by myself. *They're not in an easy location. *Meanwhile, I'm redoing each system on the boat my way so there's no doubts. *My guess is that lots of new wiring will also be done next year, maybe all of it. *Zantrex 3000 charger/inverter with solar help on the roof, OK for wet cell or gels but not both at once. *The boat was set up for 4 months each year in the Abacos. *If I came across a real deal on a hydraulic bow thruster or windlass, I might change out both.


-- Edited by healhustler on Thursday 13th of October 2011 07:43:19 PM

Walt, my bow wave doesn't go very far aft, and the floor of the anchor-chain locker isn't very far from the waterline.* Marin, draining the locker into the bilge is another alternative I'm considering.* Welcome the input!


-- Edited by markpierce on Thursday 13th of October 2011 07:53:27 PM

Mark--- I would not recommend draining the anchor locker into the bilge of your boat for two reasons. One, you have a steel-hulled boat and water inside a steel hull is what kills them. A dry bilge is a must on a steel boat if you want to avoid eventual rusting, pinholing, etc. Perhaps not in the time you own it but eventually.

Two, as I recall from comments over time on TF, the bottoms of SFO Bay, the delta, and the river(s) are largely comprised of mud and muck. Unless you are set up and prepared to rinse and scrub your anchor rode REALLY well every time you pull it up, mud and muck will drain off the rode in the locker along with the water and the result in your bilge can be a really Bad Smell.

So if it was me, I would place the drain higher up or with a different configuration that doesn't take in water and continue to drain it overboard, not into the bilge.

Marin, you're right, you're right, you're right.* While I do have a freshwater outlet at the bow for rinsing the anchor chain, I agree it's best to keep water out of the bilge.* Still, the shower drains into the bilge and the amount of water that would enter the locker through the anchor chain hole would be minor.* (The Coot has two bilges/electric pumps.* The deepest is below the engine room and the other is under the forward cabin.* Both have float valves.* There's also a manual pump up.)

Is it possible to drain the locker into a receptacle large enough to house a float switch? Then an external pump can be automatically activated to completely purge the tank via a tube mounted at the lowest point of the tank. This way the mucky water stays isolated from the steel hull, contained and immediately pumped overboard via an appropriately sized and located through-hull.

Al, that's a workable but higher-cost option.* If I did it, I'd want to have the shower drain into the tank also.

Mark--- All I know about the care and feeding of steel boats comes from friends who, when I met them, had a 70' converted steel fireboat which they sold a few years later to buy a surplus 60' LCM landing craft (steel) so they could start a barge service in the San Juan Islands. But they were almost anal about keeping a totally dry bilge in both their boats.

If it was me, I would not want even the shower draining into the bilge. First of all, you then have moisture if not water itself in the bilge. Bilge pumps can't get it all out. The only way to get every drop out is to vacuum it out (or mop it out). Better, in my opinon, not to let any water get into the bilge in the first place.

And second, shower water wil eventually start to stink unless you get all of it out every time. Again, a bilge pump will get most of it out but the very nature of the pump and its plumbing prevents the removal of all the water. Our GB, even though it's glass not steel, has a sump under the shower grate with a hose from the sump drain to a pump, and a hose from the pump to a through-hull. This is the arrangement I would want on your boat.

Our friends with the fireboat and then the LCM fabricated deep, stainless steel pans that fit under the shaft logs. Any water dripping out of the logs ended up in the pans which they emptied periodically. So not even the shaft log "drippings" ended up in the bilge.

Marin and Al, I'm going to discuss directly*the additional tank*and pump for collecting and disposing any locker and shower water with the KKMI project manager tomorrow.* Blackberry (his) communications this evening*makes it sound doable.* Dang right!* Avoid all water contact from the interior of the hull.

Marin wrote:
Our GB, even though it's glass not steel, has a sump under the shower grate with a hose from the sump drain to a pump, and a hose from the pump to a through-hull.

Click to expand...

******** My boat also has the sump below the shower floor but in the middle of the companionway with a nice teak & holly hatch cover. The sump comes complete with a float switch and pump. Note: Some models come with multiple inlets so as to accommodate more than one drain source.*marine shower sumps - The hatch looks like this and the sump is directly below it in the bilge.






-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Thursday 13th of October 2011 10:24:10 PM