Volvo Service Cost

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Yes they had their First Service Inspection at 20 hours and 100 hour service at 96. Since then only 20 hours have been put on. I looked through all the records and could not find anything indicating the engine or genset anodes were checked or replaced although apparently 16 hours were spent on the 100 hour service...which is absurd...



16 hours is crazy. I'm sure the anodes were at the very least checked at the 100 hour service. I think the service manual says to replace them every 200 hours but not sure. There is likely a time element as well.

I'll bet the anodes probably need to be replaced but that the engines are fine.

I was very anxious when I had my pre-purchase survey as well, so I understand how you feel.
 
Getting some outrageous quotes for oil and filter change...may do impellers as well... $2500+! 13-16 hours of labor seems a bit high... may pay someone to do it and show me the first time if its complicated...

Can folks please share what is needed in addition to oil and filters? I.e. pump, container, absorbent pads, tools?

Also, any tips/tricks to changing oil in volvos/onan genset? Do the engines need to be warmed up first? Pump oil out through a port or pan? How do I measure out the oil so I add the proper amount?

Need to do the gear box too...

Can I easily remove the floorboards in the salon for better access?

Thanks!!
 
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Here is my routine for an oil change...

Return from weekend trip, which is usually a fast run at 2000-3100 RPMs for an hour to 1.5. This gets the oil good and hot and circulated. I then put the boat on the trailer, flush engine with fresh water, and haul it to it's storage spot, about one hour. So...we have run the engine hot, and let it cool down somewhat so not to be a burn hazard.

I then drain the oil from the drain hose attached to the pan. I use a drill pump and put it in a 3 gallon jug. The oil filters will generally drain themselves immediately once the engine is shut down. Back the filters off carefully, allowing any remaining oil to drain. Sometimes there is oil remaining. You can get the filters off empty, and not spill one drop! Remember which is which, bypass and main. Put a little oil on the gaskets of the new filters. Use a sharpie marker to write the date and engine hours on the bottom of the filters. Install them hand-tight only. Refill engine with 3 gal and one quart of oil. I use Delo from Costco where it is about $31 for 3 gallons. Check the oil - it may read high because the filters are still dry.

I don't run the engine again until the next use. I generally need to add another quart (total 3 gal 2 qt) as the filter will absorb some oil. These engines seem to read inconsistently on the dipstick, so be careful about adding too much oil.

Materials - You will need both oil filters and some oil, a drain jug, rubber gloves, and an oil diaper. I rigged up fittings so my drain hose attaches to a drill pump, which has a discharge hose. Part of the job is to be prepared for a colossal mess, then nothing will go wrong. This will be one of the easiest oil changes you will do on any machine.

NOTE - my trusted technician says Volvo Penta is now advising to change the crankcase breather at 100-hour intervals. I would do this at the oil change unless you have that item tracked on another interval.

OPTIONAL - during the middle of the drain, fill a sample bottle from Blackstone Laboratories. I do analysis every 100 hours with the oil/filters change.

OPTIONAL - check the anodes, if you have them, in the charge air cooler and heat exchanger. Once you find the right wrench and figure out where to wiggle your hands into position, it's a quick job. They will waste at different rates so they need to be checked. You may also free some debris from the respective coolers once you pull the anodes, which is a bonus.

OPTIONAL - check the other fluids, such as compressed oil, while you are in there.

I will PM my phone number. Please call to discuss if you wish, and this weekend is fine.
 
Getting some outrageous quotes for oil and filter change...may do impellers as well... $2500+! 13-16 hours of labor seems a bit high... may pay someone to do it and show me the first time if its complicated...

Can folks please share what is needed in addition to oil and filters? I.e. pump, container, absorbent pads, tools?

Also, any tips/tricks to changing oil in volvos/onan genset? Do the engines need to be warmed up first? Pump oil out through a port or pan? How do I measure out the oil so I add the proper amount?

Need to do the gear box too...

Can I easily remove the floorboards in the salon for better access?

Thanks!!



$2,500 is typical but should take 8 or 9 hours max. I watched the mechanic when he did mine but gave up after 3 hours. Problem was that it's really hard to follow along as there is only space for one person down there so almost impossible to look over his shoulder from up in the salon. Also, he plugged his laptop in for various diagnostics and to log the service on the Volvo system. I wouldn't have had the equipment to do that.
 
$2,500 is typical but should take 8 or 9 hours max. I watched the mechanic when he did mine but gave up after 3 hours. Problem was that it's really hard to follow along as there is only space for one person down there so almost impossible to look over his shoulder from up in the salon. Also, he plugged his laptop in for various diagnostics and to log the service on the Volvo system. I wouldn't have had the equipment to do that.

Can the floorboards in the salon of the ST44 be removed so you can get a better view? Or is that a huge project?
 
Here is my routine for an oil change...

Return from weekend trip, which is usually a fast run at 2000-3100 RPMs for an hour to 1.5. This gets the oil good and hot and circulated. I then put the boat on the trailer, flush engine with fresh water, and haul it to it's storage spot, about one hour. So...we have run the engine hot, and let it cool down somewhat so not to be a burn hazard.

I then drain the oil from the drain hose attached to the pan. I use a drill pump and put it in a 3 gallon jug. The oil filters will generally drain themselves immediately once the engine is shut down. Back the filters off carefully, allowing any remaining oil to drain. Sometimes there is oil remaining. You can get the filters off empty, and not spill one drop! Remember which is which, bypass and main. Put a little oil on the gaskets of the new filters. Use a sharpie marker to write the date and engine hours on the bottom of the filters. Install them hand-tight only. Refill engine with 3 gal and one quart of oil. I use Delo from Costco where it is about $31 for 3 gallons. Check the oil - it may read high because the filters are still dry.

I don't run the engine again until the next use. I generally need to add another quart (total 3 gal 2 qt) as the filter will absorb some oil. These engines seem to read inconsistently on the dipstick, so be careful about adding too much oil.

Materials - You will need both oil filters and some oil, a drain jug, rubber gloves, and an oil diaper. I rigged up fittings so my drain hose attaches to a drill pump, which has a discharge hose. Part of the job is to be prepared for a colossal mess, then nothing will go wrong. This will be one of the easiest oil changes you will do on any machine.

NOTE - my trusted technician says Volvo Penta is now advising to change the crankcase breather at 100-hour intervals. I would do this at the oil change unless you have that item tracked on another interval.

OPTIONAL - during the middle of the drain, fill a sample bottle from Blackstone Laboratories. I do analysis every 100 hours with the oil/filters change.

OPTIONAL - check the anodes, if you have them, in the charge air cooler and heat exchanger. Once you find the right wrench and figure out where to wiggle your hands into position, it's a quick job. They will waste at different rates so they need to be checked. You may also free some debris from the respective coolers once you pull the anodes, which is a bonus.

OPTIONAL - check the other fluids, such as compressed oil, while you are in there.

I will PM my phone number. Please call to discuss if you wish, and this weekend is fine.

Thank you. Breather filters just done. Anodes checked. Really just going to do the main engine oil, gear case oil, and all oil filters. On the fence on impellers, main air filter, and fuel filters. There are only 30 hours on the equipment since last oil change and Blackstone says I can probably get another 40-50 hours but I will be doing a 70-80+ hour trip so don't want to stretch. I will have another 50-60 hour leg in April so will change again then and probably do the main air filter, fuel filters, and impeller then. Will sample oil before the second leg of the trip. Engines have 128 hours on them as of right now and genset 95.
 
Are we talking 2500$ for a regular engine oil change???

L
 
Are we talking 2500$ for a regular engine oil change???

L

yes, quote included impeller and gear case oil too though. anyone know if there is an oil filter on the gear case of the D4-300 or only the two on the engine?
 
MYSTERY:
Changed my ST44's oil for the 1st time this fall. Each engine took +/- 1 hour.
Purchased a REVERSO portable 12 v pump that you use to suck the oil out of the secondary oil pan tube.(Black tube with a removable cap that connects to the oil pan). Also changed the crankcase breather - (remove and replace) and air filters.
Previously I changed impellers - +/- 1 hour for both.
Fuel filter as about the same time - but a little more technical since you have to bleed the air out of the system. VP's manual is pretty good at the oil and filter changes.

I try to limit my PM efforts to 3 different activities (1) fuel filters, primary and secondary (2) Oil/Air/Etc filters and (3) Impellers.

It is easy to loose your enthusiasm trying to work more than a few hours in the ST44's engine room.

Also - anodes are +/- 30 mins.

Not bad at all and gave me knowledge on PM in the event we are away from our dock.
Next year I will give the AFT in the trans a try.

VP supplies are what they are - stay with VP's stuff. Might cost you a few bucks more but no issues so far.

Genset was even easier - oil change and fuel filters +/- 1 hour.

Key was the REVERSO pump. If I recall about $400 dollars.

Good luck
 
MYSTERY:
Changed my ST44's oil for the 1st time this fall. Each engine took +/- 1 hour.
Purchased a REVERSO portable 12 v pump that you use to suck the oil out of the secondary oil pan tube.(Black tube with a removable cap that connects to the oil pan). Also changed the crankcase breather - (remove and replace) and air filters.
Previously I changed impellers - +/- 1 hour for both.
Fuel filter as about the same time - but a little more technical since you have to bleed the air out of the system. VP's manual is pretty good at the oil and filter changes.

I try to limit my PM efforts to 3 different activities (1) fuel filters, primary and secondary (2) Oil/Air/Etc filters and (3) Impellers.

It is easy to loose your enthusiasm trying to work more than a few hours in the ST44's engine room.

Also - anodes are +/- 30 mins.

Not bad at all and gave me knowledge on PM in the event we are away from our dock.
Next year I will give the AFT in the trans a try.

VP supplies are what they are - stay with VP's stuff. Might cost you a few bucks more but no issues so far.

Genset was even easier - oil change and fuel filters +/- 1 hour.

Key was the REVERSO pump. If I recall about $400 dollars.

Good luck

Thank you! Any details on bleeding the fuel system / changing that filter? I have two fuel filters per engine essentially - one on the engine and one after the gas tank. Probably should change both?

Is all the info in the standard volvo manual or do I need a shop manual?

Thanks again!
 
Each weighs according to the amount of filter medium inside. The Volvo filters are heaviest, proportionally to their higher price. If you are changing after 50 hours you probably don't need anything above a Wix. If after 250 hours you probably benefit by using Volvo brand. Other brands in between.

How do you know the extra weight isn't from the metal components of the filter? How do you know the filter media in a Volvo filter isn't inferior to one such as a Wix? Do you know if Volvo makes their own filters or has a company such as Wix make them for Volvo?

Ted
 
yes, quote included impeller and gear case oil too though. anyone know if there is an oil filter on the gear case of the D4-300 or only the two on the engine?



There are filters on the gear cases.

 
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Jeez, I feel cheap with my 50$ yearly oil change :)

L

With oil at about $100 for 20l and filters about $25 each for the good ones, already at $150 for my 2 engines.
I use one of the vacuum pumps, sucking through the dipstick pipe, so it takes about 5 minutes to get all the oil from one engine. During that time I can remove the filter and clean up any spills, write the engine hours and date on and install the new filter. Getting everything out of the way, moving the new oil into the saloon to be ready, opening up the floor hatches, disposing of the old oil, all takes an hour or more. Sometimes I check or replace the zincs at the same time, but as I shop for zincs at the marine store and for oil and filters at the auto parts store, I don't often have the zincs and oil changes synchronized.
I have carried spare impellers for 50 years. I have never HAD to change one, so don't do them every year, as some will tell you to do. Last time I changed out a pump due to seal failure, I did the second impeller. I think that was after 10 years or so of use. The one I removed is in my spares drawer, as it still looks good.
With the low sulphur fuel we get now, fuel filters last a loooong time. I changed the 2μ filters last a year or two ago, and on checking my log, found they were 12 years since the last change. The Racors, (10μ) were 4 years. I change them whenever some dirt or mung shows in the bowls.

Of course I don't have to worry about satisfying a dealer that I have spent enough money with them to maintain the warranty. I just have to satisfy myself that everything will continue to work properly until the next time.
 
IMG_8940.jpgIMG_8941.jpg

Here is all the stuff the Volvo technician brought for the annual service.
 
MYSTERY:
RACOR filter is easy - if you have a bottom drain - drain a cup or so out of the bottom until clear diesel can bee seen. I installed a petcock to help this out. Remove top cover and slowly pull out filter. The RACOR has plastic handles. I cover the entire area in rags since you will spill a bit of diesel. I also have a bucket near to place the old filter in.
Insert the new filter and fill to the top with clean diesel, replace cap and you are done. A small plastic canister with a lid helps to do this. (Push the filter down so you don't overfill since when you screw the cap back, the filter is pushed down a bit in the body of the canister. If you don't do this, fuel will spill out when the cap is installed).
I carry a gallon or so of clean diesel to do this if I have a clogged filter on a trip.

VP filters:
Buy a spare water in filter sensor!!!!! (+/- $70)
Remove the WIF connector. (I leave the WIF fuel sensor on the old filter) Remove the old VP filter. Install the new WIF sensor on the new filter, install the filter and reconnect the WIF connector. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE WIF SENSOR to the new filter. I broke my spare by slightly over tightening!!! Don't forget to remove WIF sensor from old filter and save. This will give you a spare and can be used next filter change.
Get a clear plastic tube about 3' long and a small bucket. Install the tube on the drain plug. Carefully loosen the drain plug - DO NOT REMOVE - Only loosen enough until fuel drains through the plastic tube. Pump the top plunger until you get clear fuel and no bubbles - then do a few more times. Tighten everything up and then pump the plunger 5 or more times - will take a little bit of pressure. Take a look at VP's manual for the number of times to pump after all is back together.
Once all is back together, put the gear shift into "throttle only" and crank the engine over. If it does not start after a few seconds you will most likely need to bleed again. (the RACOR does not need bleeding)

I did the starboard engine 1st time so I did not have to snake to the port engine to figure out how to do!!!

Most importantly - close the fuel valves before you change either filter.

Good luck
 
Actually the warranty clause requiring the annual service to be done by one of their dealers has lost in court every time I know of it being tested. Car manufacturers have tried it. The rulings have been that they must prove the problem was related to inadequate maintenance or mistakes made by whoever performed it. That's another reason the manufacturers don't push the issue. They only use it when there are obvious signs that a problem resulted because maintenance was not performed.
 
Actually the warranty clause requiring the annual service to be done by one of their dealers has lost in court every time I know of it being tested. Car manufacturers have tried it. The rulings have been that they must prove the problem was related to inadequate maintenance or mistakes made by whoever performed it. That's another reason the manufacturers don't push the issue. They only use it when there are obvious signs that a problem resulted because maintenance was not performed.

Bingo. Lots of companies try to write things into warranties, liability waivers, leases, etc. Many times they can be overcome. Some times even the remaining valid clauses can be invalidated depending on how the overall document was written and entered into.
 
It’s too bad when the people you buy your things from are the enemy.
 
It’s too bad when the people you buy your things from are the enemy.



Result of a highly litigious environment. But there are companies who don't behave this way and they are rewarded for it.
 
Actually the warranty clause requiring the annual service to be done by one of their dealers has lost in court every time I know of it being tested. Car manufacturers have tried it. The rulings have been that they must prove the problem was related to inadequate maintenance or mistakes made by whoever performed it. That's another reason the manufacturers don't push the issue. They only use it when there are obvious signs that a problem resulted because maintenance was not performed.
It`s well publicized here car dealers cannot require services to be dealer performed to maintain warranty, but the dispute resolution to get warranty work done could be a hassle if you strike a nasty dealer or maker following a path of resistance. If you are up for an argument you`ll likely succeed.
I recently had a dealer voluntarily request (successfully) the manufacturer cover an out of warranty issue. I might not have got that had I not exclusively used dealer service. Though I was probably entitled to the repair under general consumer law.
 
It`s well publicized here car dealers cannot require services to be dealer performed to maintain warranty, but the dispute resolution to get warranty work done could be a hassle if you strike a nasty dealer or maker following a path of resistance. If you are up for an argument you`ll likely succeed.
I recently had a dealer voluntarily request (successfully) the manufacturer cover an out of warranty issue. I might not have got that had I not exclusively used dealer service. Though I was probably entitled to the repair under general consumer law.

I had a dealer cover a $600 item warranted for 60,000 miles without question when it failed at 63,000 miles.

Some manufacturers also give dealers more freedom to use judgment than others and some dealers will go to bat for the customer more.
 
It’s too bad when the people you buy your things from are the enemy.

I haven't seen indication in this thread of anyone being the enemy. If they were, I'd agree with you, but no indication Beneteau is acting inappropriately. Now, if they ultimately do, I'll change that thought.
 
I haven't seen indication in this thread of anyone being the enemy. If they were, I'd agree with you, but no indication Beneteau is acting inappropriately. Now, if they ultimately do, I'll change that thought.



In my experience once you get the right people at Beneteau involved, they do the right thing.
 
It`s well publicized here car dealers cannot require services to be dealer performed to maintain warranty, but the dispute resolution to get warranty work done could be a hassle if you strike a nasty dealer or maker following a path of resistance. If you are up for an argument you`ll likely succeed.
I recently had a dealer voluntarily request (successfully) the manufacturer cover an out of warranty issue. I might not have got that had I not exclusively used dealer service. Though I was probably entitled to the repair under general consumer law.

I've had no issues claiming on my engine warranty even though I did the engine installation and every service myself. I just ring up and notify them that xxx has failed and the parts are sent to me the next day; no questions asked.

Kudos to Vetus.
 
Wow, I see some outrageous charges for an oil change here. I do mine myself. I have an oil change pump mounted on a 5 gallon bucket. I run the engine to warm it up, shut down, connect the pump to the oil drain tube and turn the pump on. The oil is out of the engine in less than a minute. Once that is done I replace the oil filter (5 minutes) and the fuel filter. Changing the fuel filter is a bit more involved since I put several oil sorbent pads under/around the filter mount before removing the filter. I fill the new filter with diesel before spinning it on. The final step is to bleed the fuel system. The entire process takes about 15 minutes. Changing the transmission fluid takes an additional 5-10 minutes. Once all the filters are changed I put the new oil in, start the engine and run it for 5 minutes, let the engine sit for a few minutes then top the oil up. The entire process takes under an hour. Changing the raw water impeller is an additional 10 minute job. I don't change any zincs/anodes since my Volvo-Penta diesel doesn't have any (Monel heat exchanger).
 
Wow, I see some outrageous charges for an oil change here. I do mine myself. I have an oil change pump mounted on a 5 gallon bucket. I run the engine to warm it up, shut down, connect the pump to the oil drain tube and turn the pump on. The oil is out of the engine in less than a minute. Once that is done I replace the oil filter (5 minutes) and the fuel filter. Changing the fuel filter is a bit more involved since I put several oil sorbent pads under/around the filter mount before removing the filter. I fill the new filter with diesel before spinning it on. The final step is to bleed the fuel system. The entire process takes about 15 minutes. Changing the transmission fluid takes an additional 5-10 minutes. Once all the filters are changed I put the new oil in, start the engine and run it for 5 minutes, let the engine sit for a few minutes then top the oil up. The entire process takes under an hour. Changing the raw water impeller is an additional 10 minute job. I don't change any zincs/anodes since my Volvo-Penta diesel doesn't have any (Monel heat exchanger).

You are either amazingly fast or your watch is broken. I would love to watch you do this in under an hour. Perhaps you could post a video.
 
On my twins my 1 hour oil change takes 4 hours.
 

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