Heated Floors in Head?

Has anyone installed heated floors in their head? I don’t like my stateroom to be warm but the head is in the same zone so it gets super cold, was at first thinking about a small electric heater but then started thinking that maybe electric heated floors would heat the whole room and keep the feet toasty.
Thoughts?

I like the idea but I have never done it in a boat or house. I have a king pick a watt installed in my bathroom. It’s the only electrical resistance heater in the whole boat.

I did them in my house and love them, since I want to do new tile anyways in the boat I might give it a shot.
Looks like they make some for RVs but I think I’d likely go simple 110v

Good idea - might be a power hog - but would be great while plugged in to shore power or with the gennie running. I installed heated tile floor in our home, and have done the same for friends and family - we love them.

We sorta achieved the same thing by running hydronic heating plumbing under the floors and then having a small blower hiding in the kick plate area of the bathroom cabinetry. The blower happens to output the air directly at the side of the toilet, warming it as a bonus.

I'd be a little concerned about the increased fire risk with electric resistance floor heating.

It wouldn't be too hard to circulate water from your H/W under your floor. Even easier would be via a hydronic towel rail.

HenryD said:

We sorta achieved the same thing by running hydronic heating plumbing under the floors and then having a small blower hiding in the kick plate area of the bathroom cabinetry. The blower happens to output the air directly at the side of the toilet, warming it as a bonus.

Click to expand...

We had a Webasto DBW 2010 and added a small radiator for the head on it's own zone with a programmable thermostat. We set it to go on 30 minutes before we'd got up. The head would be 70 while the rest of boat maybe in the 60's. Even the seat was warm.

How about a plant seed-starting pad under the carpet? 110v, but encased in a waterproof vinyl jacket. 30 second Google search: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RC58J...t=&hvlocphy=9007297&hvtargid=pla-350506522936

Wifey B: Well, you can get heated toilet seats.

We have heated floors but there is one member of the family who likes to walk across cold floors. I won't say who, but it's not this B. So, we keep it turned off. Our guests and friends think it's just super cool.

BandB said:

Wifey B: Well, you can get heated toilet seats.

We have heated floors but there is one member of the family who likes to walk across cold floors. I won't say who, but it's not this B. So, we keep it turned off. Our guests and friends think it's just super cool.

Click to expand...

I've never heard of someone preferring cold tile floors (when it's cold outside).

We have hydronic floor heating at home, and it's magic. I much prefer it over hot air blowing at you from a reverse cycle A/C or forced air gas furnace.

AusCan said:

I've never heard of someone preferring cold tile floors (when it's cold outside).

We have hydronic floor heating at home, and it's magic. I much prefer it over hot air blowing at you from a reverse cycle A/C or forced air gas furnace.

Click to expand...

Wifey B: Well, the outside temp really doesn't matter much if it's warm inside. This person I haven't said who they are is the only one I know that prefers the cold tile. His body temp is just strange. Body is always warm. Everyone else with cold hands and cold feet and his are warm. No explanation here.

If the boat has hydronic heat and you are planning to re-tile, I would look into splitting off the bathroom into a different zone.

Is there anything existing like for water heater to recover some heat from the engine to run water line under the floor to heat the floor? O I know it would be useless if you stay still but just a question.

L

Lou_tribal said:

Is there anything existing like for water heater to recover some heat from the engine to run water line under the floor to heat the floor? O I know it would be useless if you stay still but just a question.

L

Click to expand...

We didn’t do it but it was an option that Sure Marine offered who we bought our system from. You added another heat exchanger in the system and used the excess engine heat to circulate through the heating loop without having to run the furnace.


Sure Marine Service, Inc. | Heat Exchangers

Greetings,
Mr. A. Good grief man. Buy a nice piece of carpet or wear slippers.

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Mr. A. Good grief man. Buy a nice piece of carpet or wear slippers.

Click to expand...

That was my initial impression ... but then I come from a place that 'cold weather' means finding some socks - so I'm not going to judge old mate too harshly

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Mr. A. Good grief man. Buy a nice piece of carpet or wear slippers.

Click to expand...

Here comes a man of good sense!

L

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Mr. A. Good grief man. Buy a nice piece of carpet or wear slippers.

Click to expand...

Usual common sense advice from RT. I agree!

Sailor of Fortune said:

Usual common sense advice from RT. I agree!

Click to expand...

+1

I use a bathmat.

30amp boat, 2 resistance heaters. Dont turn on the stove or micro wave unless you like to be in the dark, no heaters, no stove. Change to inverter, can run the micro wave and 2 heaters on the 120vt circuit

I hear you all.... but then again I do like toasty toes
Looking at the power usage it’s 80 watts at 110v, that’s about 1-2 old lightbulbs so not super worried about power usage. Unfortunately my boat is all 240v heaters, plus a Dickenson I’ll have in the salon.

"30amp boat, 2 resistance heaters. Dont turn on the stove or micro wave unless you like to be in the dark, no heaters, no stove."

OR install a couple of priority relays (Last I saw was about $60 each) that can turn off a heater as the more important load is switched on.

FF said:

"30amp boat, 2 resistance heaters. Dont turn on the stove or micro wave unless you like to be in the dark, no heaters, no stove."

OR install a couple of priority relays (Last I saw was about $60 each) that can turn off a heater as the more important load is switched on.

Click to expand...

Not so sure it will work, in my case. The heaters are not on a separate circuit.
I would be interested in reading more. Would you please provide the URL?

Heck, more than once at a marina I have awoken at 3 AM freezing because the 30A pedestal tripped at around 20A..... one heater and battery charger.

As a live aboard, somewhere between minimalust and luxury, even 2 30A circuits barely do it if for me if I need heat or air and do more than be underway, go to dinner and read till bedtime.

psneeld said:

Heck, more than once at a marina I have awoken at 3 AM freezing because the 30A pedestal tripped at around 20A..... one heater and battery charger.

As a live aboard, somewhere between minimalust and luxury, even 2 30A circuits barely do it if for me if I need heat or air and do more than be underway, go to dinner and read till bedtime.

Click to expand...

You might consider changing your onboard shore power breakers. Springs weaken over time.

Follow RT's advice and buy yourself some fleece lined slippers.
We use a blow towel heater on a timer which does the 2 jobs, heats the toilet compartment and gives a you nice warm towel, I also fitted an electric heating pad behind the mirror as I like a nice hot shave in a clear mirror when doing my ablutions.

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Mr. A. Good grief man. Buy a nice piece of carpet or wear slippers.

Click to expand...

That seems like the simplest solution. I mean, how much time do people spend in the bathroom on a boat?

So some people are suggesting electric heat and some are suggesting hydronic. Electric assumes that you have 120 (or 240) volts available at all times and that the significant current draw would not be a problem.

Hydronic assumes that you have a hydronic heating system or are running the engine when using the bathroom. Either will work if your boat fits those criteria but personally, I'm going with the carpet or slippers. Much easier and much less expensive. If necessary, put the slippers in the microwave for a minute before you put them on.

This:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Schlute...F1fk29sMev-p1DusqM0x3GNdm0jEiLlhoCHDQQAvD_BwE

Initially expensive, but you can put in as much or as little as you want, at <8 watts per square foot.

I use forced air in my hydronic heating instead of baseboards or radiators. Each area has one or two units with ducts distributing the air so there are no cold spots. In the heads, one duct points at the floor and floor has 1" of foam underneath. So even between heating cycles the floor stays warm.
Some other benefits to forced air, initial heating from a cold boat, near freezing, to comfort is several times faster than radiators. 20 minutes compared to 3+ hours. And with the addition of a chiller in the water lines, in the summer the same units can give cooling.

Lepke said:

I use forced air in my hydronic heating instead of baseboards or radiators. Each area has one or two units with ducts distributing the air so there are no cold spots. In the heads, one duct points at the floor and floor has 1" of foam underneath. So even between heating cycles the floor stays warm.
Some other benefits to forced air, initial heating from a cold boat, near freezing, to comfort is several times faster than radiators. 20 minutes compared to 3+ hours. And with the addition of a chiller in the water lines, in the summer the same units can give cooling.

Click to expand...

If I had to retrofit a boat, I do believe that running a couple of 3/4" liquid lines is much easier than finding space for 4" ducting to the nearest evap unit.

koliver said:

This:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Schlute...F1fk29sMev-p1DusqM0x3GNdm0jEiLlhoCHDQQAvD_BwE

Initially expensive, but you can put in as much or as little as you want, at <8 watts per square foot.

Click to expand...

I can buy a lot of things to keep my feet warm for $530.
Argile socks and slippers etc.