Mainship MK1 window

I have a '79 MK1 that has had one window replaced by a PO using acrylic plexi-glass instead of real glass. I would like to correct this. It's located next to the lower helm station and is the sliding panel. I found a source for the same color of tinted glass but now I need to learn how the old "glass" panel can be removed. Anyone know how this is done? Thanks!

U need a hardwood (splitting issue) 2x4 and 2/2. Cut the 2x4 to length so that it is jammed at about 60+- degrees between the base and top of the frame near middle as you can. Take the 2x2 and cut to length 8 to 10 inches. Put the 2x4 in the frame as described, lay the 2x2 on the bottom of the frame (parallel) holding it in place, keeping pressure on the 4x4 with the 2x2. Take a hammer and strike the 2x2 thereby pushing the roof up with the 2/4 and widening window opening.
I have done this many times when replacing the woolly stuff in the slides. It is a two person job insofar as the window might fall out on you. You will have to play with your wood lengths to get it just right.
I hope I explained it understandably

It appears to me that the aluminum window frame is all welded together. If I'm correct then how does the frame move to allow the space to remove the glass? If I'm wrong, then where does the frame have a separation? I'm concerned that hammering a wedge into the frame as you describe will bend it. Please explain.

Aluminum bends and returns to original shape. Do not overdo it though. You only need 1/4 to 1/2 inch extra spread to lift the window out. I have seen and used this on two MK 1s we were cleaning the fuzzy stuff out of the slides. Very hard, detailed job, took 4 or more hours on each window. To my knowledge there is no other way to get the windows out intact.. Do not use excessive force. The welds, as I recall are on the corners and get additional support from the structure of the boat.
The other choice is to destroy the frames. That is not a bridge to cross.

some frames have rubber sliders in the top track. remove those and the glass can be lifted up and out.
I have used an auto jack for an extra tight squeeze.

Use tempered glass. Tinted or not to match. any glass shop can supply it.

Bayview, might work, we never tried that. My estimated measurement was way off on the 2x4. Looked at the mk1 next door to refresh the memory.
Good luck Tumblehome.

Mine did not have the rubber inserts in top track.
Mule has it right, jack up the aluminum frame in the middle, then you can lift the glass up and then out from the bottom.

helm window

Am I supposed to remove the aluminum widow frame from the boat before using the jack? I started to work on this today. Without removing the frame I am jacking up the hardtop.

You NEVER remove the aluminum frame. You jam the 2x4 in at a mild angle less than 90 degrees. You mallet (hammer) the 2x4 at its base (striking the 2x2, into the base of the 4x4) forcing the 2-4 toward a 90 degree angle to the aluminum base. Your objective is to widen the window opening 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch to raise and lift the glass and rocking the bottom out clearing the aluminum frame. I used oak, split resistant and hard enough to do the job but soft enough not to damage the frame.

PM me if you do not understand, I will do pictures of the process on one of my MK 1 neighbors. This works with no damage.

sliding window at helm

So, key things I've learned: the fixed window, that is forward of the sliding one, must be removed first to allow full access. The windows must be removed to the exterior not the interior. Either the wood block method or the small auto jack method appear to work well. Next spring when the shrink-wrap has been removed I will make a new attempt at this project.

My public apology for not specifying removing to the outside. Last time was 2012...memory a little fuzzy.

Hey Mule. You have helped me a lot on this. I knew nothing about removing this window, absolutely nothing, until receiving guidance from you. Thank you.

You are welcome. For winter busy yourself getting the monkey fur out of the V Berth. Another nasty job.. after you grind all the backing left behind you will be ready for New covering. Old glue is ok but all the old disnigrated fabric gotta go. Important to use proper stuff or it will mildew in the future.
If you do not want a formal insulated look then clean all residu from monkey fur remains and paint it.
Then there is the overhead in the head-shower and galley area. Overhead in cabin is easy... we fingered that out pretty good too.

I'm busy this winter making a replacement bimini top. If that goes well I will do more Sunbrella work for front, side curtains and aft curtain. I'm also making a mast mount for radar mast. I have a mast that I intend to fasten to the flybridge sole immediately aft of bimini. Thank you for the suggestion on the monkey fur. I'll get to that someday. It does need replacing.

Have you already bought the sunbrella? Where are you? Cold country, right.

Yes, bought the Sunbrella. I'm in SW Michigan.

Cold there, my son is in St Joseph. Runs a 32 Tiera. Last in the shed in Oct first out in March.

I moved from Sunbrella to Stamoid, just did a canvas-strataglass job on the boat. Little different on the Treasure Coast. Limited the strata glass to the forward, made side panels out of net to let in the breeze but break the rain.

Take a look at Stamoid for the rest of your project..might work. Has a slick, non porous finish like Naugahyde, UV rated.

stamoid canvas

I took down all my Canvas and carried it directly to the dumpster, did not pass go, now $5k later...happy day.

Touch base with me on the v Berth, galley, cabin, head overhead before you leap. No point in risking the possibility of making the mistakes I made plowing that ground.

Follow-up on the replacement window project. It's all done and went well. I used the hardwood method. Important to have the wood pieces be of the correct length and width. Small pieces near the lower aluminum tracks helped keep things plumb. Yeah, it's a bit tricky but once I got the hang of it all went well. Thanks Mule.

You are welcome.

I have both the monkey fur and window project looming.. in the middle of a Total redo of our MK1. ( see my thread here for all the pain I mean fun I’m having
Thanks for these tips. I will say I can’t even pull the old shag carpet off in the v berth. It’s on there. Not sure what I’m going to do there yet. I’ve fried bigger fish but this seems like the work smart not hard wont be very helpful in this case. Thinking of razor scoring it and trying to pull smaller pieces? Not sure.

Also any specific model number and place to order the window fuzzy stuff? MK1 78. ( I’ll assume several years later are the same windows)

capeshore said:

Also any specific model number and place to order the window fuzzy stuff? MK1 78. ( I’ll assume several years later are the same windows)

Click to expand...

What??? You want to put the fuzzy stuff BACK??That stuff is hard to clean.
When we get to the stage of stateroom redo, my wife has picked out a foam-backed vinyl material that will hopefully bring the interior into the 21st century.

Edit! My mistake! You were talking about the window track. I misread & thought you were talking about the stateroom headliner!

boomerang said:

What??? You want to put the fuzzy stuff BACK??That stuff is hard to clean.
When we get to the stage of stateroom redo, my wife has picked out a foam-backed vinyl material that will hopefully bring the interior into the 21st century.

Edit! My mistake! You were talking about the window track. I misread & thought you were talking about the stateroom headliner!

Click to expand...

correct, the window fuzzy stuff. Do you remember where you got it? model # etc. Thanks!

Somebody on this or the Yahoo forum said this was what they used. I ordered a roll from amazon but haven't installed it yet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D0RITYY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's what I used. the .270 backing and the zipper type makes it much easier to install. Clean the aluminum tracks well after removing the old weatherstrip, I used angle picks and small rotary wire brushes on drill. Of course the 100' is a lifetime supply but it's not too expensive.