Maxwell Nilsson Clutch Replacement?

So my new to me boat has this windless. It spins, but won't pull the anchor up, as evidenced by the muddy chain that I had just pulled up by hand. I see where someone put a screw and a bunch of washers on it, I'm guessing to keep from replacing the clutch. I'd like it to work as it should. Based on another thread, I'm guessing it's a V1000 and I downloaded the manual that someone was nice enough to post.

My question: does it sound like a clutch issue and, if so, where can I find replacement parts?

Thanks!

Yes looks like a V1000.
That screw on the top (with multiple washers) really only keeps the water out. This is a very simple windlass to disassemble.

Just undo the screw and spin off the top section using the two flip out levers then lift the top off. Lift off the rope drum. To get the chain wheel off you will need to remove the chain stripper first. Pull up the chain wheel and you will see the clutches above and below.

It sounds strange, but the bronze clutches (upper and lower) tend to slip when they need some grease. I use Innox waterproof grease - once a year.

Reassemble and tighten the top using the flip out levers to pressurize the clutches so they don't slip.

Our windlass is about 35 years old and doesn't show any signs of wear or unwanted slipping. It gets a hard life when we're fishing.

Thanks so much for the feedback. Is there a zert fitting where the grease should be applied or do I disassemble as you described and apply grease by hand?

I'll be at the boat this afternoon and take a crack at it.

You put a very light coating of grease on the clutch gases. As well as the shaft.

You should also clean off the gases of the clutches and the faces on the wildcat before you grease them.

A fine wire wheel on a drill works well to clean the faces.

Post done pictures of the faces once you get it apart.

The clutch cone, should be cleaned and lightly greased... There may be other issues if that doesn't work. If the motor is running when trying to raise the chain and the clutch is not the problem ( meaning its clean and adjusted ) There is a roll pin on the pinion gear that can shear... Depending on how it shears there may be enough friction to turn the capstan with no load but will slip once loaded....

There are grease nipples, but I find it easier to strip, clean, inspect and grease by hand. Brakleen is good for cleaning the old grease and residue.

Okay, I've taken it apart and clearly it hasn't been serviced in a very long time. Nothing appears broken except at the very bottom there is a piece with four ball bearings. None wanted to move, but I was able to revive 3 with some grease. The other is rusted down in place.

Hoping that was the issue, I greased everything and put it back together. Now, when I tighten the handle down the cone will go too far down and rub the base of the windless and bend the chain keeper? Should I have greased the part with the ball bearings or should there be friction?

If I remember correctly there is a retaining clip that holds the clutch cone up.... The bearings in the lower clutch cone are spring loaded and push the chain gypsy up away from the lower cone... There appears to be way to much grease on both the upper and lower cones... I used Emory cloth to clean up the cones and just a very light coating of grease on the clutch...hope that helps...

It obviously needs a complete cleaning. You need to free up those buttons that help pop the clutches loose.

You might just want to order the updated replacements for them.

Thanks for replies. Most of those pics were as I was taking it apart, but I did grease the heck out of it based on what I found when I opened it up. I agree that the lower clutch may need to be replaced, but 3 of the 4 buttons are now functional. Getting parts may be an issue...

I found a schematic on the James Nilsson website and I see the retaining clip you're referring to. I'll check it out next time I'm on the boat. I also noticed that the keys may have been in the wrong locations. The small key was at the top, but the schematic shows that it should be located near the lower clutch. Not sure what difference that would make. As everything else on the boat has been, this has been a learning experience.

clynn said:

Thanks for replies. Most of those pics were as I was taking it apart, but I did grease the heck out of it based on what I found when I opened it up. I agree that the lower clutch may need to be replaced, but 3 of the 4 buttons are now functional. Getting parts may be an issue...

I found a schematic on the James Nilsson website and I see the retaining clip you're referring to. I'll check it out next time I'm on the boat. I also noticed that the keys may have been in the wrong locations. The small key was at the top, but the schematic shows that it should be located near the lower clutch. Not sure what difference that would make. As everything else on the boat has been, this has been a learning experience.

Click to expand...

Don't grease the heck out of it. If all that grease in the picture is what you put on, wipe it off and start over.

Just like with gasket sealant, a little goes a long way.

Update:

Took it apart again today and confirmed that there was no retaining clip. So I need one of those and maybe a new lower clutch while I'm at it. I suspect that someone took it apart way back when and didn't put it back together correctly.

Is James Nilsson out of NZ the only place to get these parts? I didn't see any spares on eBay or at Defender.

I really appreciate this group. I learn so much every time I tackle a project and knowing this group is here makes me a little braver?

Oh, and I cleaned most of the grease off while I was in there...

Update:

Mitchell with James Nilsson Winchmakers was super responsive and helped me figure out what parts I needed. My package came in today and I can't wait to get it all installed and see my anchor come up without breaking my back! I recommend those guys if you have a need with your older Maxwell Nilsson windless.

I had the same experience when I overhauled mine last month. Lightly coated everything with a white lithium grease. Then installed new grease nipples and greased through them. The base nipple took a fair amount after assembly. Works like a charm ever since! Don't forget to get and install the v seal where the shaft meets the base.


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Uh oh...v seal? I don't think it had one to begin with (I saw something like that on the schematic) so I put it back together as it was. I don't think one was in the service kit that they sent me. You don't happen to have a picture of that seal, do you?

There wasn't one on mine either, but it's important so to keep water from the chain from going down the shaft and into your gear box below decks. You will need to give them the part number from the manual or just the shaft diameter will do.


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Greetings all. An excellent discussion which will come in handy when I need to service my V3000. At least I think it is a V3000 and not a V1000. My motor is vertical whereas I was under the impression the V1000 motor sits horizontally. If I am incorrect please instruct me on how I can distinguish a V3000 from a V1000 . Thank you. My winch is an UP only model. Has anyone changed out the single direction motor for a bidirectional motor? If so, Please point me in that direction. Thanks and Merry Christmas

Here's a chart that shows the models and their orientation. Things may have changed some since yours was made, so you could give them a call or search further if there's still some uncertainty.

I found this by googling "maxwell winch models".

I had the same exact windlass, VC 1000. If you all followed me through Alaska you know my windlass bit the dust, bad motor. I replaced it with a VWC 3500. You have to enlarge the shaft hole to 5" + a little more.


Vertical Windlass and Capstan Range

Is the "shaft hole" the hole in the deck?
Thanks,
-David

Yep. 5 1/8 inch hole saw.