More Bronze

AKDoug · Oct 12, 2017

I didn't want to steal the bronze thread on "painting or not", but have issues with my packing gland getting a green buildup on it heavy enough to prevent turning the nut by hand. Anyone have a fix for this? I thought about just greasing it, but didn't have good luck with that as the grease ages and turns stiff too.

I am not interested in switching to a dripless before that suggestion comes up

I like simple, and have had no issues with the packing gland other than surface corrosion. Thanks all...

diver dave · Oct 12, 2017

AKDoug said:
I didn't want to steal the bronze thread on "painting or not", but have issues with my packing gland getting a green buildup on it heavy enough to prevent turning the nut by hand. Anyone have a fix for this? I thought about just greasing it, but didn't have good luck with that as the grease ages and turns stiff too.

I am not interested in switching to a dripless before that suggestion comes up I like simple, and have had no issues with the packing gland other than surface corrosion. Thanks all...

Have you tried Fluid Film? Not permanent either, but I have not found it to get stiff. Permanent? As in nickle / chrome plating?

Johnbuoy · Oct 12, 2017

I cleaned mine then sprayed it with fluid film 4 months ago and it is holding up well. Don't know how long it will last, but it is easy to do.

C lectric · Oct 12, 2017

THe grease may age and stiffen but it will prevent the corrosion that seizes the threads.

Maybe some thing like ALco Metalube or outboard propellor shaft grease. Both are waterproof or highly water resistant to washout. Any sprays or thin non water resistant grease will wash out allowing the seizing corrosion to reoccur.

FF · Oct 13, 2017

Old style packing required grease to stop drips when the shaft is stopped .

The green is from the sea water underway.

A modern packing does not require grease and is not required to drip underway for cooling and lubrication.

Repack the unit then polish it if desired .

caltexflanc · Oct 13, 2017

Corrosion X is a great thing to have on board anyway, I'd advise giving that a try.

Pieyed47 · Oct 13, 2017

AKDoug said:
I didn't want to steal the bronze thread on "painting or not", but have issues with my packing gland getting a green buildup on it heavy enough to prevent turning the nut by hand. Anyone have a fix for this? I thought about just greasing it, but didn't have good luck with that as the grease ages and turns stiff too.

I am not interested in switching to a dripless before that suggestion comes up I like simple, and have had no issues with the packing gland other than surface corrosion. Thanks all...

I have used this for over 20 years and it works......

4 Oz Jar Of Lanocote Corrosion - Forespar 770001 - iboats.com

AKDoug · Oct 13, 2017

Good tips all! I have Corrosion X, I use it to lube the roller guides on my fishing rods and have for years. The first three years I have run the boat there was no issue with the packing gland, it's been in the past two it has emerged.

The vessel had the packing replaced when I purchased it (by the boat yard), I guess it must be time to replace the material. It has accumulated 3000 hours on that packing since I purchased it 5 years ago, how often should packing be replaced? I figured it came down to when tightening the gland didn't control the drips anymore...

Pieyed47 · Oct 13, 2017

AKDoug said:
Good tips all! I have Corrosion X, I use it to lube the roller guides on my fishing rods and have for years. The first three years I have run the boat there was no issue with the packing gland, it's been in the past two it has emerged.

The vessel had the packing replaced when I purchased it (by the boat yard), I guess it must be time to replace the material. It has accumulated 3000 hours on that packing since I purchased it 5 years ago, how often should packing be replaced? I figured it came down to when tightening the gland didn't control the drips anymore...

More info. HTH

TJM · Oct 13, 2017

The green is called Patina and is a result of oxidation of the copper. Similar to the statue of Liberty. The salt water will expedite the process. As others have said, most corrosion protection products will work as long as they stay in place.
I spray mine with Boeshield T9 every few months

C lectric · Oct 14, 2017

AKDOUG,

Repacking should be every year or two or three. Most packing will harden not sealing anymore or become so worn they cannot be compressed enough.

The newer packings will last longer but again they may wear enough to not be able to be compressed enough.

Sound like yours is overdue.

The green is normal from seawater and would be tough to stop. SLow yes from the suggestions but stop , maybe not.

But if it's the threads seizing then grease those threads. Don't need gobs, just enough to keep the seawater spray off.

AKDoug · Oct 14, 2017

I pulled the stuffing box, the packing was hard as stone. I am in process of cleaning the threads up so the box will tighten, and cleaning the patina off. I am going to replace the rubber boot as well, just to get a baseline for how old everything is. I guess I have been waiting too long before doing my maintenance...

Nothing intuitive about some of this stuff, it takes experience. Which I am still working on :socool:

AKDoug · Oct 15, 2017

I threw it in a glass of vinegar and the green just melted off. It was definitely more than a patina, it was crusty enough that the locking nut wouldn't turn into it. I used to clean brass that way, maybe it will be useful to somebody...

Mkeller · Oct 17, 2017

For parts too big to soak or still mounted, I've used ketchup to clean heavily crusted bronze. Just don't let it completely dry.

diver dave · Oct 17, 2017

Yes, acetic acid will react with copper oxides, and warmer is faster. The tomato just keeps it in position longer. If given enough time, vinegar will attack chrome plating, however. Not an issue with seacocks, strainers, and stuffing boxes, but some thru hulls are chrome plated bronze.

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AKDoug

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Pieyed47

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AKDoug

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TJM

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