Bottom Paint

This could be like getting people started about Chevys and Fords, but What is the best bottom paint to use on my glass hull? Mind you I am in the Tropics. Any thoughts or recommendations? BB

Petit Trinidad SR

Will I use the same paint on my rudder and prop?BB

belizebill wrote:
Will I use the same paint on my rudder and prop?BB

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You can, but it won't last (I'm assuming*your rudder is metal).* Maybe Keith will chime in, but here's my 2 cents.**Short of PropSpeed or using a combination of a metal primer such as Pettit 6455, then several coats of epoxy before the bottom paint, bottom paint alone won't last unless you go from the yard to your slip.

The next time I haul my boat I'm going to use Interlux Pacifica Plus. I was talking to the Interlux sales rep last week and he said that their tests of Pacifica Plus have been the best he's ever seen. It doesn't use copper as the poison and it is very high in solids. Because it has no copper it can be used on aluminum. The high solids mean it covers better than a more conventional bottom paint and it releases fewer VOC into the air. It is also self polishing. The draw back is that it doesn't hold up well on fast boats, 30+ knots. I don't think that will be an issue for this forum. I like Prop Speed on my propeller. It's the only paint that I've had stick and continue to work for more than a couple of months on my prop.

I'm on my second season with Interlux Micron CSC, color is blue.* It's a self-polish (ablative style) paint and has low copper content.*
*
I'm not entirely thrilled with its performance. Within a couple of months it was already accumulating slime and grass.* For the first year it would clear off about 95% of it after an hour of running at 8 to 9 knots.* This summer it grows a foot of grass and slime within two - three weeks at the dock and it will clear off all the long stuff after an hour of running, but not the slime and short grass.* It seems to adequately control barnacles and muscles, but it is fertilizer for grass and slime. *It's mainly an appearance issue, but who wants two feet of grass hanging down from your hull. *My neighbor boat had the same paint, color was black, *put on in June this year with the same results.
So if you use this paint, plan on making at least a one hour run every week or be the talk of the marina *
I believe I will be going back to a copper base paint, if the EPA lets me, next haul out.
*

What about this Copper Coat, very long-lasting type which is meant to last over ten years. Anyone with personal experience? Apparently it is meant to be almost as good as copper sheathing, and because it does not wear off, it is non-polluting, or so we are lead to believe. http://coppercoat.com/

I have had good results from the cheapest stuff I could find (mind you we are in brackish), CPP+ from West Marine (we get a friend to buy it with their WM Port Supply discount and get it for $60/gal). We pull her annually so,to us, wasting $250/gal. on exotic paint would be a huge waste. YMMV

I've tried everything from plain bottom paint, to petit's underwater metal kit, and another metal specific kit. They all work about the same... the picture below is after a year or so with plain bottom paint. Even though the paint is gone on the prop, there was no fouling on it. And most of the paint is still on the rudder. I now use propspeed on the propeller, and regular bottom paint on the rudder. New pix in about a month.

Oh, the bottom paint I've used for years is Petit Trinidad SR. Easily lasts 4 years here in the Galveston Bay area.


-- Edited by Keith on Monday 5th of September 2011 07:42:43 AM

Has anyone heard of Sea Hawk Islands 44 bottom paint?BB

belizebill wrote:
Has anyone heard of Sea Hawk Islands 44 bottom paint?BB

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We used it when we were in Trinidad in 2004.* Some of the best paint we ever used because it contains TBT (tributyltin) in addtion to couprous oxide.* Nothing grew on the hull.*

Peter B wrote:
What about this Copper Coat, very long-lasting type which is meant to last over ten years. Anyone with personal experience? Apparently it is meant to be almost as good as copper sheathing, and because it does not wear off, it is non-polluting, or so we are lead to believe. http://coppercoat.com/

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Peter

I dont know if they market it here in the States, at least I haven't seen this product before. *I don't know how much longer we will be allowed to use copper based paints here anyway. *

The EPA would like to outlaw it's use on non-commercial hulls, along with requiring you to store your sink and bath tub water.

I'm thinking maybe I will move to Oz too. *You got room for me there Peter?

Larry B

BTW, you can still get TBT (Tributyl tin) at the house paint store as a mold/mildew additive, and add it into your bottom paint.

I tried that Keith but it was for latex house paint and wasn't compatible. I use Petit Sea Mate now ($80 gal here in Alaska) but on my first app so can't comment on it's performance but the Interlux Micron Extra that we used before worked very well except I had to scrape it off after 3 years. Don't want to do that ever again. Here's the bottom after 3 years. I use Armor All on the prop.


-- Edited by nomadwilly on Tuesday 6th of September 2011 01:43:52 PM

There is no need to add TBT to bottom paint anymore. TBT was used as a slime preventer. Both Interlux and Pettit have come up with very effective replacements. Pettit uses Ingarol and Interlux uses Biolux. Copper is used to prevent hard fouling like barnacles and oysters. If you prefer a hard paint, you can't go wrong with Pettit Trinidad SR or Interlux Ultra with Biolux. I prefer an ablative or self polishing paint so I don't get a build up of paint over time. Interlux Micron 66 is great for boats that stay in the water year round. Micron Extra with Biolux can be hauled and relaunched for multi season use on boats that spend the winter on the hard. Interlux has even come up with a replacement for copper. It is their Econea which is used in conjunction with Biolux in their Pacifica paint.

About ten years ago I tried a product similar to Copper Coat. It was an epoxy resin with a very heavy load of copper. It lasted about as long as cheap bottom paint without a slime preventer. I was very disapointed.

I'm going to try something different next time. *In the past I used interlux with good success. *But this Micron CSC is not what the yard claimed it would do. *I used Pettit Trinidad before and as I recall it was fine. *

I actually used West Marine cheap paint once and it lasted over 4 years. But during haulout, as they were pressure washing it, small water bubbles were forming between the bottom paint and gelcoat. *The surveyor about panicked, thinking it was blisters!! As it dried it started coming off in big patches. *Had to take the rest off with a garden hoe. *Won't do that again. **

Edelweiss wrote:Peter B wrote:
What about this Copper Coat, very long-lasting type which is meant to last over ten years. Anyone with personal experience? Apparently it is meant to be almost as good as copper sheathing, and because it does not wear off, it is non-polluting, or so we are lead to believe. http://coppercoat.com/

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Peter

I dont know if they market it here in the States, at least I haven't seen this product before. *I don't know how much longer we will be allowed to use copper based paints here anyway. *

The EPA would like to outlaw it's use on non-commercial hulls, along with requiring you to store your sink and bath tub water.

I'm thinking maybe I will move to Oz too. *You got room for me there Peter?

Larry B

*Sure have Larry, any time we would make room for you.* Although we also have fairly stringent waste disposal requirements, but nothing planned for grey water though. * Quite a good supply of marina berths at present, and most of ours you can buy on long term lease as well. *

As to Coppercoat - yes, it is in the US, as it is actualy advertised near the back of the latest Passagemaker Mag.

Edelweiss, If you switch to Trinidad, be sure to use the Trinidad SR. It is much better than just plain Trinidad. You were disappointed in the Micron CSC because it didn't have a slime biocide. If you use a cheap paint without a slime blocker, the slime seems to block the copper and soon you get hard growth as well as slime. Boatyards know they are competing on price when it comes to bottom jobs so they recommend what ever paint they can buy cheap.
Micron CSC is an ablative paint and Trinidad is a hard paint, I'm not sure you can put Trinidad over CSC. Check with Pettit on that. I think you should stick to an ablative or self polishing paint anyway. If you want to switch to a Pettit product, look at their Ultima SR. The SR in the name of a Pettit product means "Slime Resistant".

How about some more comments on Copper Coat. I talked to their rep at a boatshow and it sounded impressive. Any real world experience out there?

Ron

Before painting my hull I contacted Interlux thru their on line forum: yachtpaintforum.com

The moderators are interlux employees. They were very helpful in picking the right paint for me. Interestingly enough, most boat owners here in SW Florida use an ablative type bottom paint. The moderator did not recommend this type based on my usage, but rather a hard type. He mentioned that the ablatives are good for boats that are used several times a month. Larry in a previous post seems to mirror this thinking.
Anyway, I used their recommendation and have been happy with the results, but the boat has been in the water only 6 months.

There is not a good paint for the running gear. I put 3 coats of primer and 3 coats of bottom paint, the same as the hull and most of it was gone from the props in a month.

I purchased Interlux Ultra from Boatfix.com in a 3 gal container and saved quite a bit.

Good luck.



Note: I have my boat bottom cleaned once a month.

"There is not a good paint for the running gear."

I'll agree with that! A few weeks ago I cleaned all the running gear down to bare metal, put on the Petit Underwater 2-part primer then a couple of coats of bottom paint. When the boat was hauled for hurricane Irene (with only about 25 hours run time) it was very disappointing.

It's hard to beat Propspeed for the prop, and in the past I have had good results with a good 2-3 yrs between re-applications of Micron 66 (International/Interlux), on rudder and hull, but this last time I went with Micron Extra to see if there was any difference - not so far one yr down the track.

I've had great luck with Petit products, Hydrocoat and Zinc Coat Barnacle Barrier.

I slap on a quick coat of Hydrocoat each Spring, although it doesn't seem to really need it.* But I do a really good prep on the running gear before I spray on the Zinc.* I use an angle grinder with a wire wheel to get down to bare metal, wash with the Petit solvent and spray on a couple coats.

Never more than a little slime and a half dozen barnacles at the Fall haul out.

Hello Trawler Forums,
I am the US distributor for COPPERCOAT anti-fouling. If any one has any questions I would be happy to answer them. Our website is www.coppercoatusa.com

Micron Ultra Bio......in my 4th year!!!! I did a quick haul in March and when I told the Yard guy what I used....he smirked and highly recommended I use the same stuff the next time around. I expect another season out of it. It is a hard paint and I use my boat a LOT!!!!

Larry M wrote:
Petit Trinidad SR

I have a diver who cleans the bottom "as necessary".* That's every other month in winter and as often as every three weeks in the summer.* He recommended Petit Trinidad SR so that's what I used.

*

I don't see the bottom unless the boat is hauled so I can't say how it's doing.* From the little I can see of the sides, it seems to be working well and holding up.

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*

The Eagle is presently in the hard after 3 years.* The Petit Trinidad SR help up extremely well on the hull.* About ½ dozen small places that keel the barnacles grew, which I think is where the blocks where.* However the prop and cutless housing was covered with barnacles which was painted with Trinidad.** So Trinidad will be applied to the hull again, but not sure yet what for the prop?* I am having three thru hulls taken out and filled in, had the dripless taken apart and inspected, and had the bow thruster taken apart and inspected. Only a ½ dozen or so less than quarter size blisters which where just bottom paint.* I am having the hull sanded as the bottom paint is getting to thick in places which may have caused the blisters.* *Hope to get back in the water mid next week as we been having rain which has put us behind.*
*
There are three hot spots where the Trinidad which is high in copper was burned/worn off to the bear fiberglass around the gen set thru hull and the rudder post which indicates they are not bonded to the boat.* The bronze in the thru hull and the copper have a reaction which caused the Trinidad to wear and the port main zinc is not wearing as fast so the starboard, so when back in the slip will have to fix/repair the protective wiring. *This is the first year we have had that problem.* **
*
Next time we pull will have 3 more thru hulls removed and 2 thru hulls move up which are above the waster line, so the hull will have to be repainted.* Its been 9 years since the hull been painted which is holding up well but needs refreshing.* Each year I apply Turtle Wax 21 protections to the hull which protects and shines.* When I decide about the prop painted I will let you know as I will talk to the yards guys as to what they recommend.
*
The marina yard has been nice enough to let us stay on the boat and park the RV, which they normally do not allow.* However, we are a full time live aboard, and most know the boat and I can whine and throw a tizzy fit with the best of them.
*
Estimated cost
*
Pull, pressure wash, blocking and wait time - $800.00 to $1,000.00*
Trinidad paint and misc - $800.00 to $1,000.00
Sand and fill in thru hulls - $1,000 to $1,500.00
Misc - $500.00
*
Could have just pulled and slapped some bottom paint on, but I will sleep better for the next 3 years.
*

We put the boat back in the water this morning, I had some extra things done.* I decided to take the forward bow thruster tube out.*Being this is the first time we have been in salt water there was more growth than expected so had the bottom sanded down and a thick coat of Trinidad applied.
*
Estimated cost was;*
*
Pull, pressure wash, blocking and wait time - $800.00 to $1,000.00*
Trinidad paint and misc - $800.00 to $1,000.00
Sand and fill in thru hulls - $1,000 to $1,500.00
Misc - $500.00
*
Total Max $4,000.00
*
*
Actual cost
*
Pull Pressure Wash, block and wait, 10 days *- $1,000.00
Trinidad Paint and Misc - $900.00
Sand/fill in Thu hulls - $1,100.00
Zincs - $250.00
Misc $150
*
Extras not in estimate.*
*
Sand bottom and help apply paint - $600.00
Labor to remove forward Bow thruster tube -* $375.00
Sand/fill in bow thruster - $550.00
*
Total Actual - $4,925.00
*
The boat is a mess and will take a couple of*days to clean/wash and*put things away.*

Hey Phil /Fill
Noticed the other day your boat was facing a different direction. Time to change the view?

Baker wrote:
Micron Ultra Bio......in my 4th year!!!! I did a quick haul in March and when I told the Yard guy what I used....he smirked and highly recommended I use the same stuff the next time around. I expect another season out of it. It is a hard paint and I use my boat a LOT!!!!

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*Hope I get 4 years out of my Ultra.

Do you clean the bottom every month?