View Single Post
Old 09-20-2017, 04:36 AM   #8
sdowney717
Guru
 
City: Seaford Va on Poquoson River, VA
Country: United States
Vessel Name: Old Glory
Vessel Model: 1970 Egg Harbor 37 extended salon model
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,136
Yes, I let it dry for 4 days outside, but not in the sun.
I found 3 nice pieces, but I had rejected 10, too many knots.
In the larger sizes you may find better boards.
For my rim parts, I cut them out of a 2x8x8. First split in half at a 5* angle, the ripped to a 1" width.

The plywood supports I used 2x6x10, same way split in half but left wide.

Wood boats have curves, they are not straight, so thinner pieces can be bent to the proper shape. Otherwise you have to grind to fit.

I sealed the end grain either with paint or adhesive. When this is done, it is going to stay dry under the plywood. I plan to put a skim coat of the PL adhesive on top of the PT plywood, then a coat of white paint.

Eventually I will reattach the teak.

I also need to tear off the aft teak covering boards and replace the plywood under them too. These plywood pieces are not that wide but do add some stiffness, otherwise I would use wide PT 3/4 boards.

The original rim wood was mahogany nailed to the framing with what looks like monel nails.
I reused those nails attaching the short interframe support parts that go between the outer plank and the first rim wood part. They add strength if something hits the side of the hull.

Back in 2006, I had this entire planking side off the boat down to the chine, and replaced the frames with laminated PT wood glued together.

Titebond 3 is good glue even for teak wood. And so is the PL premium polyurethane CA. You can build thicker layers mixing with sawdust. It will swell so you can force it back down with plastic HDPE sheet (cereal bags ) or a putty knife, or just grind it when it gets hard and fill again. Doing this actually becomes a structural repair.
sdowney717 is offline   Reply With Quote