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Old 09-19-2017, 05:04 AM   #4
City: Seaford Va on Poquoson River, VA
Country: United States
Vessel Name: Old Glory
Vessel Model: 1970 Egg Harbor 37 extended salon model
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,136
All the repairs are screwed, a few are glued.
The problem with treated wood and glues is helped if the wood surface to be glued is abraded-roughened up. Yes epoxy does not work as well as the polyurethane glues on PT wood.
Maybe also because it is wetter. I let this dry a few days before cutting.

The earlier repairs were made using the old arsenic formula of PT wood. Can't easily buy anymore. I also sealed the end grains with paint of that poly glue.

There is no good points to using wood that will rot, your wasting your time. This rim wood did rot because the teak seals over the decades fails. They used inferior techniques on a lot of wood boat constructions. Another bad choice is bronze or brass screws above the waterline, They eventually corrode and break. All my SS screws have held great and endured so far.

Here I sealed the surface of the new wood with that PL slathered on, Then to fill completely, where the frame slots are mixed in some sawdust. It swells up as it cures and does interlock these parts. Since it is on a cut surface it will stick well to this wood. Plus make a durable water seal.

The first picture, I painted the outer plank with white water based exterior zinsser primer.
That will make it easier to separate that plank if it ever needs to be removed since I glued over the top to seal this structure. I did not glue the 2 inch rim wood pieces to each other or to the outer wood hull and frames. Just SS screws, 2 inch square drive deck screws.
All these wood parts I recut on my table saw, they were cut to shape from 2x8 and 2x10 PT wood.

So you have a metal edge on 1.5" rubrail, 1" mahogany plank, two 1" rim wood pieces, then a 1.5 inch shelf for the plywood. That is 6 inches solid wood, not counting the plywood.

The slope angle for the plywood is 5 degrees. So the water drains away. Same angle needed to be cut for the rim wood. A handy tool is a degree checker I got from HDepot cheap. Has a swinging needle.

Also there was not enough room to drive those screws with my drill.
So I predrilled the holes just through the parts to be attached. Then ran them home using a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and socket with the square drive bit. You can get some screws in TORX drive, might be a little better to prevent head stripping.
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