Looks like I have avoided a fire

Well whilst us in yoorup have been asleep it seems battle commenced in the USA!*

I was at least right about one thing, the USA AC systems are very confusing!* Sorry if I opened a can of worms with my questions.

I think we will just hope that our 110V will somehow be connectible, via the cords and adapters*that came with the boat,*in our allocated slip when we get back there.* Our boat is currently out of the water in St Augustine FL patiently waiting for us to get sold up here and return...**

I asked for a 110V 50A connection if possible, the marina said:-

It'll have a 50amp 208v electric hookup, which you can split down to (2) 30amp cords.**Of course, you'll have to have a splitter.**Should a slip with (2) 30's comes open, I can simply change slips for you.

They list 110V 50A at $80/month and 208V/50A at $160/month or 110V 30A at $72 (per cord).* I'm concerned on two counts, one that we can get 110V on board but two that $80/month is a whole lot better than $160!* We know we can run almost everything*on a single 30A 110V connection, the previous owners did that but had one of the 3 aircon units off to do*it because the third would be just too much.* On that basis a 110V 50A supply would seem ideal especially as at $80 it is only a bit more than a 30A at $72/month.* Two 30As to give 60A total*however add up to $144 a whole lot more!

*

Not all 120V is the same , the area under a poor voltage curve can carry 20% 35% less power .

Mostly heavily loaded induction motors have the hardest time, an air cond , not a reefer.

Folks that use inverters will see the most hassles as unless they are really expensive the wave form (power output) is usually poor.

A simple solution is to visit yard sales and purchase most any tools that have brush mounts visible on the motor.

These are called universal motors and will show AC/DC on the nomenclature plate.

Feed the 120V unit 90V , and its a 90V motor , it doesn't gobble amps the way an induction motor will.

bobc wrote:*I think I'm on safe ground here.

Click to expand...

*Yes, you are. I reread your post and see that I mistakenly read it as meaning there was a 30A breaker on each leg. Please accept my apology.

Robin wrote:
Well whilst us in yoorup have been asleep it seems battle commenced in the USA!*

I was at least right about one thing, the USA AC systems are very confusing!* Sorry if I opened a can of worms with my questions.

I think we will just hope that our 110V will somehow be connectible, via the cords and adapters*that came with the boat,*in our allocated slip when we get back there.* Our boat is currently out of the water in St Augustine FL patiently waiting for us to get sold up here and return...**

I asked for a 110V 50A connection if possible, the marina said:-

It'll have a 50amp 208v electric hookup, which you can split down to (2) 30amp cords.**Of course, you'll have to have a splitter.**Should a slip with (2) 30's comes open, I can simply change slips for you.

They list 110V 50A at $80/month and 208V/50A at $160/month or 110V 30A at $72 (per cord).* I'm concerned on two counts, one that we can get 110V on board but two that $80/month is a whole lot better than $160!* We know we can run almost everything*on a single 30A 110V connection, the previous owners did that but had one of the 3 aircon units off to do*it because the third would be just too much.* On that basis a 110V 50A supply would seem ideal especially as at $80 it is only a bit more than a 30A at $72/month.* Two 30As to give 60A total*however add up to $144 a whole lot more!

*

Click to expand...

*From what the marina has said, it*sounds like they are supplying 50 amp 208V 3 phase to the slip they have open for you from which you could get two 50 amp 115V circuits.* When you get there, I would ask your friendly local marine electrician to help you put the cord together based on what you actually have both at the dock and on the boat to make sure you aren't hooking 30 amp cable to a 50 amp supply.*

bobc wrote:RickB wrote:bobc wrote:I discovered that my 30A breaker, which was the right size, had the hot lead paralleled across both breakers, rather than switching both the hot and the neutral.** In effect, I had a 60A breaker.*
You might want to review your electrical laws.

Click to expand...

*

*With two breakers in parallel, the current is split half the current through one, half through the other (assuming equal resistance of the contacts).* This means the combination can pass a total of 60A with each breaker conducting 30A.* I think I'm on safe ground here.

*Bob, the NEC requires that paralleled CBs be factory assembled to function as a unit.* If you're going to leave this as is and to conform to the intent of the NEC, you*should probably make*sure that there is a connector between the switches so that if one trips, the other does as well.*

Delfin wrote:Robin wrote:
Well whilst us in yoorup have been asleep it seems battle commenced in the USA!*

I was at least right about one thing, the USA AC systems are very confusing!* Sorry if I opened a can of worms with my questions.

I think we will just hope that our 110V will somehow be connectible, via the cords and adapters*that came with the boat,*in our allocated slip when we get back there.* Our boat is currently out of the water in St Augustine FL patiently waiting for us to get sold up here and return...**

I asked for a 110V 50A connection if possible, the marina said:-

It'll have a 50amp 208v electric hookup, which you can split down to (2) 30amp cords.**Of course, you'll have to have a splitter.**Should a slip with (2) 30's comes open, I can simply change slips for you.

They list 110V 50A at $80/month and 208V/50A at $160/month or 110V 30A at $72 (per cord).* I'm concerned on two counts, one that we can get 110V on board but two that $80/month is a whole lot better than $160!* We know we can run almost everything*on a single 30A 110V connection, the previous owners did that but had one of the 3 aircon units off to do*it because the third would be just too much.* On that basis a 110V 50A supply would seem ideal especially as at $80 it is only a bit more than a 30A at $72/month.* Two 30As to give 60A total*however add up to $144 a whole lot more!

*

Click to expand...

*From what the marina has said, it*sounds like they are supplying 50 amp 208V 3 phase to the slip they have open for you from which you could get two 50 amp 115V circuits.* When you get there, I would ask your friendly local marine electrician to help you put the cord together based on what you actually have both at the dock and on the boat to make sure you aren't hooking 30 amp cable to a 50 amp supply.*

*Thanks again.* This is their rate list below.* Would you therefore*expect to be charged (liveaboard rates) at $160 per month in red below for being connected to a 208V/50A or to be charged $82/month in blue below*for taking 50A 125V split from 50A outlet??* There is nearly $1,000 per year difference between the two options!* I don't want to be paying for what we don't need just because that is the only connection they have and it is a fixed cost not metered.*
<table class="easy-table-creator tablesorter" style="width:500px;height:108px;"><thead><tr><th>Electric 120V 30 Amp, Per Outlet</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td>Daily</td><td>$6.00</td></tr><tr><td>Weekly ( 7 days or more)</td><td>$36.00</td></tr><tr><td>Monthly</td><td>$40.00</td></tr><tr><td>Live Aboard (Monthly)</td><td>$72.00</td></tr></tbody></table><table class="easy-table-creator tablesorter" style="width:500px;height:108px;"><thead><tr><th>Electric 208/220V 50 Amp, Per Outlet</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td>Daily</td><td>$10.00</td></tr><tr><td>Weekly (7 days or more)</td><td>$60.00</td></tr><tr><td>Monthly</td><td>$82.00</td></tr><tr><td>Live Aboard (Monthly)</td><td>$160.00</td></tr></tbody></table><table class="easy-table-creator tablesorter" style="width:500px;height:108px;"><thead><tr><th>Electric 125V 50 Amp Split From 50 Amp Outlet</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td>Daily</td><td>$7.00</td></tr><tr><td>Weekly (7 days or more)</td><td>$42.00</td></tr><tr><td>Monthly</td><td>$45.00</td></tr><tr><td>Live Aboard (Monthly)</td><td>$82.00</td></tr></tbody></table>
*

$82 a month on the 120V / 50 Amp split is going to be two 120V / 30 Amp cords off of the 50 Amp splitter.* That's about what my summer bill is with both A/C running and I don't live aboard but I*am there about 20 days a month.

Seems reasonable.

Robin wrote:

Click to expand...

*I gather you have a 50 amp 115V connection on board, so that is clearly the best option.*

JD wrote:
$82 a month on the 120V / 50 Amp split is going to be two 120V / 30 Amp cords off of the 50 Amp splitter.* That's about what my summer bill is with both A/C running and I don't live aboard but I*am there about 20 days a month.

Seems reasonable.

Click to expand...

*That is what I'm really really*hoping it means!* We have propane cooking and 440W of solar panels contributing to our own 12V*power and our fridge, freeezer and icemaker can all run off 12V*so we are not overly power hungry if we choose.* We know*our two main*aircons run off one 30A hookup but the third one just trips the breaker so 50A would seem perfect for all options pretty well, but we probably never need all three on together anyway.* 20 days per month more than*consitutes live aboard rates it seems as the rules are 8 days consecutive or 12 days in any month I think.* Fairest of course would be metered maybe.

Robin wrote:JD wrote:
$82 a month on the 120V / 50 Amp split is going to be two 120V / 30 Amp cords off of the 50 Amp splitter.* That's about what my summer bill is with both A/C running and I don't live aboard but I*am there about 20 days a month.

Seems reasonable.
*Fairest of course would be metered maybe.

Click to expand...

*Mine is metered.* So days don't count.

I did understand that you have two 120V /*30 Amp*receptacles on your boat do you not?* Thus a 50 Amp split.

Yes we have two 30A inlets and two cords plus a 'Y' connector but I'm not sure what ends are on it, I'd go have a look but it's 4,000mls away!

Robin wrote:Yes we have two 30A inlets and two cords plus a 'Y' connector but I'm not sure what ends are on it, I'd go have a look but it's 4,000mls away!

Click to expand...

I'll wait!

Just kidding.* The splitter will take the*240V/ and split it into two 120V / 30 amp services.* You will then plug them into your two receptacles and "Bobs you uncle" you will be good*to go for $82 a month.*

JD wrote:Robin wrote:Yes we have two 30A inlets and two cords plus a 'Y' connector but I'm not sure what ends are on it, I'd go have a look but it's 4,000mls away!

Click to expand...

I'll wait!

Just kidding.* The splitter will take the*240V/ and split it into two 120V / 30 amp services.* You will then plug them into your two receptacles and "Bobs you uncle" you will be good*to go for $82 a month.*

That's a relief, I thought I was going to have to*give up*even more wine tokens!

Thanks

Robin

110V 50A was the way power was supplied in the 50's and 60's , very rare to find any location with this socket.

I would use a 50A 240 power hose from dock to boat inlet , and use CB from there to protect the wiring.

That way for most boats should a plug go south the unit will probably not burn.

Remember cheap GRP burns at 500% of oak , that's why Fire Retarding resin is demanded for boats that carry ( over 6) passengers for hire.