Bolt cutters

Just wondering how many here carry* bolt cutters aboard in case you need to jettison an all chain rode for whatever reason.

I just bought one. ( I made them let me try it in the store to make sure it could cut 5/16 chain)

*

Sure do. Wouldn't be without one. Someone's always loosing a key for a pad-lock, cutting a chain link or rusty bolt.

Yes. with/for the ground tackle/anchor.* ***

No.* I used to feel bad when I was a sailor and sailed offshore and did not carry one to cut loose the rigging in a dismasting.* Now I am a motorboater and do not fell the need to carry one.

Willy wrote:
Yup .

Also a great tool for a fast disconnect of battery cables.

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*Oh, good call. Since everything on a boat MUST serve at least two purposes, it is now justified.

Oh great !!!

*Not that I didn't have enough stuff stored on the boat. Now I need bolt cutters. Or a cut off wheel for my battery powered hand drill.

Thanks !!!!

SD

Willy wrote:
Yup .

Also a great tool for a fast disconnect of battery cables.

Click to expand...

And be sure to put both pos and neg battery cables in the jaws at the same time when you cut them. :shocked:

To save a few yards of chain? I thought about it but after
reading a recent article (Passage Maker I think) I decided to stick with a knife to cut the line holding the bitter end so my wife can also handle the job if need be.

I almost needed to do it when anchored next to a barge and a storm blew up. We swung full circle twice on anchor at a crazy rhythm with the barge. I was too close (lesson learned) but was ready to slip the chain and have my wife cut the retainer while I controlled our exit from the area.

I DO however feel bad about leaving a tool home. I hope it isn't lonely!

Dave

I carry one on my center console for cutting hooks out of people. It would only be second nature to bring it on the lugger.

swampu wrote:
I carry one on my center console for cutting hooks out of people. ...

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You must fish with some gigantic hooks to need a bolt cutter to cut your hooks!!* WTH you fishing with down there?* And how do you get the people to bite?

Do you always practice catch and release when you catch people?

I do, various uses. As far as the all chain rode. The final link is tied to about 6' of nylon then to the anchor locker, so if I ever have to, the nylon will come out on deck, then I can cut with a knife or hatchet (yes, I carry one of those in the pilothouse) if needed.

Interesting sea story from the SSCA board,

A True Wild Windlass Tale
Sat Sep 22, 2007 10:55 pm
On a recent trip back from Maine to the Chesapeake BORN FREE experienced a rather harrowing event. We'd come to anchor just before midnight in 11' of water in the Delaware River, just across from the entrance to the C&D Canal, having had an enjoyable but boisterious sail down the Jersey coast and up the Delaware Bay.

I lowered the 45lb CQR and about 60' of 3/8" chain using the remote windlass switch in the cockpit, which controls the Lewmar Concept 2 windlass on the foredeck. After setting the anchor, I shut down the engine and went below to have a nightcap and scribble in the log before turning in for the night. My crew promptly hit the sack and drifted off into slumberland. The boat lay quietly to anchor. Below, only the red interior cabin lights and the nav table lights were lit as I reflected on the day's sail.

Suddenly, a loud motor noise erupted from up forward with the clanking of chain. It took a few seconds for me to realize that the windlass had decided --- completely on its own accord --- to begin cranking away. I raced up to the forward cabin and hit the breaker, and all was silent again.

It is my usual practice to pop the windlass breaker when I'm through with the windlass, but I hadn't done so yet as I intended to check the anchor rode one more time before turning in for the night.

Needless to say, I was apalled at the thought that the windlass might decide on its own to activate. Imagine if it just decided to pull up the anchor when one was ashore!

Investigating the cause next morning, I found that:

1. the windlass had been turning in the DOWN direction, i.e., paying out more chain; and

2. the cause was a shorted deck switch on the foredeck.

The deck switches are Lewmars which I've never liked very much....plastic rings and covers and a white rubberized covering over a pretty flimsy switch, with two small wires extending underneath. These switches simply activate relays, so don't carry much current. The wires leading from the down switch were actually cracked where they pass through a small hole in the deck; this was the cause of the short circuit which activated the relay which activated the windlass.

Moral: Follow the established practice of turning off the windlass breaker when it's not in use. Beware of flimsy deck switches.
Bill

FF that same thing happened to a guy in my marina last year. It was at night and it was raining. *Luckily he was in a marina at the time.

Hmmm. My new Lewmar windlass seems to free-fall quite a bit more than I want it to. It takes fooling with the switch to get it finally stopped. I have those same deck remotes.....I'd better take a look at that. Thanks.

What about "cleating off the rode" instead of the windlass taking the load all night?

SeaHorse II wrote:
What about "cleating off the rode" instead of the windlass taking the load all night?

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*My thoughts exactly.**Sometimes we rely to much on technology and gizmos. That can fail.*Simple things sometimes work*better. *

SD

"What about "cleating off the rode" instead of the windlass taking the load all night?"

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Exactly. As my mother was fond of saying, "An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure."

I typically anchor in 15-20 ft of water and play out all 120 ft of chain, then another 10 or more feet of rode as needed. I cleat off the rode on the bow pulpit cleat and set the anchor alarm. No foot switches here...just helm switch and wireless remote. The remote requires a double button push to activate which helps prevent unintentional avtivation.

Willy wrote:
Yes to save a few yards of chain.

So I can attach my back up anchor to the saved chain thats still rigged.

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*

That's one reason I have two rigged anchors in place!

Dave

FlyWright wrote:

Exactly. As my mother was fond of saying, "An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure."

I typically anchor in 15-20 ft of water and play out all 120 ft of chain, then another 10 or more feet of rode as needed. I cleat off the rode on the bow pulpit cleat and set the anchor alarm. No foot switches here...just helm switch and wireless remote. The remote requires a double button push to activate which helps prevent unintentional avtivation.

Click to expand...

Oh and one more thing I forgot...

I have a short tether cable and hook to secure the anchor to the pulpit while underway in case the windlass decides to drop anchor unexpectedly.* Maybe it's overkill but it gives me peace of mind.

"I typically anchor in 15-20 ft of water and play out all 120 ft of chain, then another 10 or more feet of rode as needed"

Must be nice to be in an uninhabited area where 6 or 7-1 scope can be set.

Here in the NE its crowded so a Bahimian moore is easier to find room for.

Imagine what the Nantucket harbor must be like during POTIUS golf week.

Sometimes it is necessary to anchor AMONG moorings , big fun.