Help with raw water hoses

I am NOT a good mechanic. I have no knowledge and even less experience. So here is a simply question.

Any tips on ways to make removing and reinstalling a raw water intake hose?

The reason:
I am considering adding a fresh water flush for my engine. Given my boat, the most convenient place to add a fitting into the intake line is between the seacock and strainer. In the past, any time I have had to change a hose it has turned into a long and painful wrestling match to try and remove the existing hose and fit the new hose over the fitting. It looks as if during the original install (none of this needed to be changed during the recent repower) that a sealant or glue was used on the hose fittings.

The other issue is that the existing hose has some bends in it. It doesn't look like the original hose had bends pre-molded but has no problem with the radius of the bends that are there.

I don't want to tackle this soon, I want to wait until the boat won't be used for a couple of weeks to give me time to deal with potential problems.

I think you are going to have to cut the hose off. I use a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel to cut a slit from the end of the hose to past the end of the hose barb. I can then peal the hose off the barb.

Can I suggest you use a Groco SSC Service adapter screwed onto your seacock as your fresh water flush fitting? It's easy to install. Will probably let you use the same, but now shorter, hose. It also lets you use your engine water pump as an emergency bilge pump. https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/accessories/ssc-series-service-adaptor

If the hose hasn't been one there for years it could be a quick easy job. It may slip off easily once the clamps are loosened.
Or, as Parks mentioned, it may not want to let go of the hose barb until persuaded or cut. A Dremel works well if you have one, or a box cutter will work if your are careful. Sometimes just a flat screwdriver poked under the end of the hose to break the seal will free the hose.

When installing any new hose, a pot of hot water is handy. Dip the end of hose into the
hot water for about 20 seconds. While the hose is warmed, it will be soft and pliable to easily slide onto the hose barb.

Three things:


1) Go to the auto parts store and ask for a "radiator hose removal tool". While you are there, ask the guy to show you how to use it.


2) A heat gun. Heat the end of the hose evenly. Be gentle and slow and don't burn it or get it too hot to touch.


3) Radiator hose grease. It won't help getting the old hose off, but put some on the fitting and the inside of the hose when you replace it (or on the new hose). This makes it easier to get the hose on and get it off the next time. It won't damage the hose like some things will.

That tool above is a : https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...VDzqBCh17tAKbEAAYASAAEgJn1PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds available at many auto parts stores.

warming up the hose end with a hair dryer will help then pull off with the tool, if you do need to cut it off be very careful not to cut into the hose barb.
good luck

HopCar said:

I think you are going to have to cut the hose off. I use a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel to cut a slit from the end of the hose to past the end of the hose barb. I can then peal the hose off the barb.

Can I suggest you use a Groco SSC Service adapter screwed onto your seacock as your fresh water flush fitting? It's easy to install. Will probably let you use the same, but now shorter, hose. It also lets you use your engine water pump as an emergency bilge pump. https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/accessories/ssc-series-service-adaptor

Click to expand...

Thanks HopCar. I have seen those and will think about those some more. The part of your post I emphasized is key. One of the things I am looking for is something that will be relatively easy to do. If it ain't easy, I'm likely to not do it. I am also looking for something that I can leave the hose permanently attached and have the end fed aft to my lazarette where I can attach a dock hose. The thru hull is located in the very center of the boat and my wife would not be happy about me dragging a dock hose through the boat after every use.

Here is what I was considering using.
All Products - Quick Flush Valve System - boat engine flushing, winterizing and emergency bilge pump kit, Gas, Diesel, Out Drive Marine Engines, Generators, AC units

This seems expensive to me, but when I have tried to source individual parts I either can't find what I want or it ends up being just as expensive.

WesK said:

Three things:


1) Go to the auto parts store and ask for a "radiator hose removal tool". While you are there, ask the guy to show you how to use it.


2) A heat gun. Heat the end of the hose evenly. Be gentle and slow and don't burn it or get it too hot to touch.


3) Radiator hose grease. It won't help getting the old hose off, but put some on the fitting and the inside of the hose when you replace it (or on the new hose). This makes it easier to get the hose on and get it off the next time. It won't damage the hose like some things will.

Click to expand...

Thanks Wes, that kind of information is really helpful. I have seen that tool used by a mechanic once, now I know what to call it.

AusCan, the pot of hot water is a good suggestion and thanks for the link Steve.

Work a screwdriver or other tool between the hose and fitting. Open up a little "tent shaped" void. Squirt a little wd40 or your fav brew into the void. Open up another void and add a touch of juice. Repeat. Try to rotate hose by hand, once it breaks free and rotates, you are golden.

Above makes it sound easy. Often it is NOT. I hate wrestling hoses.

WesK said:

Click to expand...

I have one of those I bought on Amazon, based on advice in a previous thread.

That is a Great tool to have around. Very handy.

Also as you posted above a a heat gun, and lubricant are great when working around hoses.

Perko makes a flush fitting. You mount it between the seacock and engine and run a hose to an inlet fitting that you mount on the side of the boat. To flush the engine, you attach a garden hose to the inlet fitting, turn on the water and start the engine. The fresh water pressure closes a spring loaded piston that blocks the raw water. When you shut off the fresh water the spring opens the raw water side. Unfortunately they only make it for up to 1-1/4 " hose.
PERKO Inc. - Catalog - Underwater Hardware - Flush Proâ„¢ [0456, 0457]

Plus 1

"Can I suggest you use a Groco SSC Service adapter screwed onto your seacock as your fresh water flush fitting? It's easy to install. Will probably let you use the same, but now shorter, hose. It also lets you use your engine water pump as an emergency bilge pump."
https://www.groco.net/products/valve...ervice-adaptor

Another option is a strainer lid fitted with hose fitting and ball valve, seen those around.

Easting said:

Plus 1

"Can I suggest you use a Groco SSC Service adapter screwed onto your seacock as your fresh water flush fitting? It's easy to install. Will probably let you use the same, but now shorter, hose. It also lets you use your engine water pump as an emergency bilge pump."
https://www.groco.net/products/valve...ervice-adaptor

Click to expand...

DITTO for the easiest solution

Those small 1/2" braided nylon (polybraid) hoses are the ones that really seem to "marry " the fitting.
I made a stupid mistake this spring when I was installing my new water heater on the boat early one Sunday morning.I decided to cut the hose off after it wouldn't break loose and wound up in the emergency room with 8 stitches , a $200 bill and an index finger that doesn't work just right anymore.

Pack Mule said:

Those small 1/2" braided nylon (polybraid) hoses are the ones that really seem to "marry " the fitting.
I made a stupid mistake this spring when I was installing my new water heater on the boat early one Sunday morning.I decided to cut the hose off after it wouldn't break loose and wound up in the emergency room with 8 stitches , a $200 bill and an index finger that doesn't work just right anymore.

Click to expand...

Marty, what kind of knife were you using? I bet that made quite a mess.

HopCar said:

Marty, what kind of knife were you using? I bet that made quite a mess.

Click to expand...

A sharpe Case pocket knife (sod buster) . Not trying to take away from the thread here but just want to say be careful. I'm really just now realizing how bad the cut was. Hoses can be stubborn .

Pack Mule said:

A sharpe buck pocket knife (sod buster) . Not trying to take away from the thread here but just want to say be careful. I'm really just now realizing how bad the cut was. Hoses can be stubborn .

Click to expand...

I appreciate the warning. I'm already a 1/4 of a digit short, I'd like to keep what I have intact.

Marty, I used to carry a Case Sod Buster too. It would take a really sharp edge.

I started cutting hoses with a Dremel tool after a similar accident with a fillet knife. I don't think mine was quite as bad a cut as yours.

When we sold hose in my store we always cut it with a hacksaw.

A PVC pipe cutter ($10 at the home center) will cut hose easily and straight.


If you can't get the hose off the fitting, cut it just past the fitting. Now, you can use the tool shown above from both ends.


If you decide to use a knife, put both hands on the knife and have other body parts away from the direction you are cutting.