Sealand Macerator Toilet issue...

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CapnJack

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I have an 8100 series Sealand toilet that will flush no problem overboard, but just bubbles and won't flush to the holding tank. The toilet in the aft head flushes to the holding tank. We just emptied it. I took off the line and snaked it. Still won't flush. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
 
I have an 8100 series Sealand toilet that will flush no problem overboard, but just bubbles and won't flush to the holding tank. The toilet in the aft head flushes to the holding tank. We just emptied it. I took off the line and snaked it. Still won't flush. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.

"Y" valve closed or obstructed?
 
Took it apart to snake the line to the holding tank. No. Clean as a whistle. The fact I am able to flush to the overboard leads me to believe it is between the "Y" valve and the holding tank. It was working fine. I changed out my fresh water pump and after that is when the problem began.
 
Took it apart to snake the line to the holding tank. No. Clean as a whistle. The fact I am able to flush to the overboard leads me to believe it is between the "Y" valve and the holding tank. It was working fine. I changed out my fresh water pump and after that is when the problem began.

Two things - first, bypass the Y valve. Secondly, why would your fresh water system have any connection to sewage discharge hoses? If so, :eek:
 
I'll try that, thanks. I'm sorry if I wasn't clear, I replaced the fresh water pump for the whole boat. Our old one gave up the ghost.
 
Do both toilets flush into the same tank....or does each flush into it's own separate tank?
 
Same I believe. Only one pump out on the deck.

It's not uncommon for two tanks to be teed or wyed to a single pumpout fitting...I suggest you explore your boat to find out.

If there is only one tank, the y-valve is a likely culprit...the handle may be moving but not be switching it from overboard to tank. Who's the y-valve mfr?
 
I have verified that the clog is past the Y valve and that it is fuctioning property. Ran a snake down the line that goes to the holding tank and there is a clog that will not budge. Have a camera coming that I can look at it through the pipe. My holding tank is located under my battery banks of 8 batteries so I'm not excited to take them out to change the pipe. Hoping to figure a way to clear the clog. A small snake is not doing it.
 
If you've had landlubber guests aboard recently, my money is on at least one wet wipe.

There are a couple of products that may save you from replacing the hose: Sew Clean Sew Clean and/or NoFlex Noflex Digestor I'd talk with the mfr of each, describing your problem, instead of just blindly ordering. I definitely wouldn't combine 'em unless ok'd by both.
 
Only in a boating forum would we be talking about this. You mentioned you already tried a plumber's snake but I've had some success with an electrician's wiring snake, like this:

https://www.zoro.com/klein-tools-ma...gclid=CN67w-uI39QCFRc8gQodaioIAA&gclsrc=aw.ds

Home Depot or other big box home improvement stores have them. They tend to be stiffer than a plumber's snake. I guess it's properly called "fish tape." I stuck the shank of a barbed fish hook through the center of a small rubber stopper and bent the hook straight, so it looked like a miniature harpoon with a barb on the end. (I suppose you could use a synthetic wine cork too depending on the diameter, you get the idea, because you don't want the point of the hook to contact the sides of the hose of course and get stuck in there, just compounding your problem.) Then I firmly taped the stopper to the end of the fish tape and went "fishing" and poking. Eew, I know. My discovery was a paper towel that just would not disintegrate, but the extraction method worked.
 
There are different sizes of plumber snakes. What size is yours?
1/4 or 5/16" diam. is common in the usual stores but a 1/2 diam unit is vastly tougher and you can actually put some pressure on it to force it to dig in, something the smaller units won't accept.
 
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