Engine won't turn over

I have a Perkins diesel and when I try to start it the voltmeter goes to zero and there's one click and the engine doesn't turn over. It ran fine six weeks ago and the other engine turns over and starts easily. Any input or suggestions would be appreciated.

I'd start with the battery assuming it a different one to your other engine. The voltmeter indicating zero when you try to start it would indicate to me that battery has had it. I'd also check all you battery, starter and other electrical connections for cleanliness and continuity.

If no joy with the battery it could be a problem with the starter motor. If it's not any of these you'll have to move on to the more expensive bits of the engine. At least with two engines you can try swapping components to isolate the problem but try the easy things first.

Battery cable connections first, unless your start battery is dry...

Corrosion on connection from ignition wire to starter?

After the above if it still does not turn over I would try to bar it over.

Start with your meter at the battery and work your way to the starter.

There are plenty of sites on the internet that will show you how to work your way to the problem.

Once you find and fix the main problem you should clean and spray protectant on all the connections. Again starting at the battery.

MurrayM; said:

Corrosion on connection from ignition wire to starter?

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Xsbank; said:

Battery cable connections first, unless your start battery is dry...

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Lol...how many times have I read of parts strewn all over the living room because of a clicking motorcycle relay when a reach around with a wire brush to the ground solved it.

I agree dead battery or corroded terminal are the usual suspects.

You can try jumper cables from the other starting battery.

You can connect these to the battery of the engine that is not turning over or directly to its starting solenoid or even the starter itself. But be careful with the sparking!

Do you have a combiner switch?

No start

I agree - cables & connections & wiring are # 1 on hit parade, solenoid internal contacts, battery & starter are next place to check. Connections are critical in the starter circuit.

What do you have in the way of tools ? Do you have a battery checker ? Volt meter, etc...Jumper cables, etc.. so you can go through a process of elimination. Voltage drop test is a very good test to do to find issue.

However, if it is not the battery & not the starter & not any of the connections, etc.. Then - could be that water came back up the exhaust & you have hydraulic lock. Head gasket can do that to you too.

I would try rotating the engine with a breaker bar & big socket on crankshaft nut & see if the engine will move freely & can be bared over one way or the other. of course it is a Diesel & be sure you have the fuel in fuel cut off position when turning it over & there will be some resistance as it is a High compression engine. But it should move.

Good luck.

Check that all the battery connections are clean and tight before you do anything, particularly check the grounds and especially the one to the engine. Do all of this before you start using jumpers or anything else. Then top up the batteries with distilled water.

Try it now. If no joy, test the solenoid by jumping the large terminals - careful, if it works, the engine will start and so be prepared for it! Watch out for things that spin and wear ear protection! If the solenoid is bad, they are cheap and easy to change, turn off or disconnect the batteries first. I always disconnect the electrical connection to the fuel shutoff too, so it can't start by mistake. You could do that for your solenoid check too, if you wish.

All good advice. Still, it's good to have a battery monitor.



Were you expecting shore power to keep the batteries charged? Check those circuits/devices if your batteries are low.

Hawgwash said:

Lol...how many times have I read of parts strewn all over the living room because of a clicking motorcycle relay when a reach around with a wire brush to the ground solved it.

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My son who is an aircraft mech specializing in electric/electronics used to work for a large (unnamed) helicopter operator in Alaska. His typical work day involved an anguished call from the deployed mech at Sleetmute, etc. who had a dead chopper on his hands and no ideas. Jump in the back of the company Kingair, fly two hours, tighten an errant ground, home to ANC for dinner.

Portable voltmeter is your friend.
Check electrolyte level in non-starting battery. Try to jump start using the known good battery.
Check wiring schematic and trace wiring to see if you have a relay in addition to solenoid.
Either can go bad and are simple low cost repairs. Spares should be onboard.
Other's have mentioned how to jump solenoid.
If it's just a click and no whirrring sound, then it's battery, ground, or solenoid.
If it's a click and whirrring but no start it's a bad starter.
Starters are typically $250, 3 bolts, easy to replace with common tools.
Bendix starters are susceptible to rust and liberal dose of PBBlaster may free it up.
In other words if you buy a new one don't throw the old one out without soaking the gear and shaft in oil and then put the jumper cables on it.

finecar said:

I have a Perkins diesel and when I try to start it the voltmeter goes to zero and there's one click and the engine doesn't turn over. It ran fine six weeks ago and the other engine turns over and starts easily. Any input or suggestions would be appreciated.

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You didn't say which engine, but if it is the 6.354, with the Delco starter, the solenoid sits on top the starter and engages the starter. They are notoriously flaky.

Assuming the battery is ok, as others have stated, clean all the connections from the solenoid back to the battery terminals. If that doesn't solve it, then it's probably the solenoid.
if you don't have a starter remote switch, you can touch a screw driver between the positive stud and the ignition stud on the solenoids black cap. If the starter engages then you know it's the solenoid.

The solenoid contacts get burned and become intermittent. It is rebuildable and in a pinch you can remove the solenoid from the starter, without removing the starter, remove the screws, nuts and washers open it up, don't lose the little spring, flip the copper contact washer on the plunger over and clean the contact stud on the cap and reassemble. You can reorder the rebuild kit which is the plunger, copper washer, spring and copper stud. I carry two spares solenoids, it's that common.

Assuming all connections are clean and good and the battery is up have you hit the solenoid with a hammer while trying to start?

On a holiday a couple years ago we stopped in a very small bay for 1/2 an hour to do some bottom fishing during calm weather. The bay was perfectly shaped on the sides and bottom to focus storm waves into nightmare monsters. When it was time to leave, turned the key, and the boat wouldn't start.

Pulled out Nigel Calder's book, "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual", flipped to the troubleshooting section, and we were underway in less than ten minutes

(See post #4)

https://www.amazon.ca/Boatowners-Mechanical-Electrical-Manual-4/dp/0071790330/ref=dp_ob_title_bk

Giggitoni said:

Do you have a combiner switch?

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Do you mean the "both" battery charging main switch?

"Off-1-all-2" switch.

When our batteries were getting weak a couple of years ago, we had to get a bit of help from our port-side start battery to get the starboard to start. Bad starboard start battery...

Hydro-locked? Will a bar on the crankshaft move it, if not, the problem isn't electrical.