Something Rotten in Denmark

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Gordon J

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Joined
Jul 23, 2015
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Location
USA
Vessel Name
Didi Mau
Vessel Make
Currently looking for next boat
Well, maybe not Denmark, but at least in my water tanks. I have two 125 gallon stainless tanks and for the first time am getting rotten egg smell - bad- from the water. Obviously something is growing and dying in the tanks/water system. I thought of shocking with chlorine, but remember something about stainless and chlorine.. Maybe not an issue. Anyone have any thoughts?

Head Mistress?

Thanks in advance,
Gordon
 
You can add Clorox (no scents or additives--plain old Clorox). The amount to add can be found on their website. Chlorine is not an issue with stainless steel tanks; the issue is with aluminum tanks.
 
Greetings,
Mr. GJ. Are you sure it's your water tanks and not your water heater? Does just the hot water smell of sulfur dioxide (rotten egg) or is it both the hot and the cold water? There is an iron "eating" bacteria that produces SO2. (NOT the iron in your water system, the iron in your water.)
 
Not hot water

RT Firefly said:
Greetings,
Mr. GJ. Are you sure it's your water tanks and not your water heater? Does just the hot water smell of sulfur dioxide (rotten egg) or is it both the hot and the cold water? There is an iron "eating" bacteria that produces SO2. (NOT the iron in your water system, the iron in your water.)
Click to expand...

Rtf, thnks. Water tnks, not hot water heater.

Gordon
 
Last time I had that smell I replaced the anode in the water heater. Problem solved.
 
Sold by west marine?

HopCar said:
I think stainless is less sensitive to chlorine bleach than aluminum but I recommend using Puriclean made by Clean Tabs in the UK.
It s very effective and non corrosive.
Clean Tabs Ltd | Water Purification | Water Purification Tablets | Water Tank Cleaning | Water Treatment | Drinking Water Disinfection

Practical Sailor did a test of several tank cleaning products including bleach and this is what they recommended.
Click to expand...


Thanks. I'll see if I can find an immediate source.
 
Anode?

jleonard said:
Last time I had that smell I replaced the anode in the water heater. Problem solved.
Click to expand...


I didn't my water greater had an anode. Ill look. Why would those matter?

Gordon
 
Consider where you have been getting water to fill the tanks. There are some places in my area (including my own dock) that has stinky water. I go to a place with city water and fill the empty tank, and no stink.
 
Like Mr RTF mentioned this smell is hydrogen sulfur and may have many origins, from natural gaz in the water to decomposing organic material. You may have got a bad water load or got something in your tank.
I would empty my tanks, add a dose of chlorine diluted in water, fill in some water, empty again the tank after few minutes or hours and fill up again with clean water. And of course do not forget to circulate chlorinated water in all your plumbing so open faucet in all places. Chlorine should not be a danger for your tank and plumbing if it is not too concentrated and you do not keep it there for too long, so look more for multiple rinse. Check also your deck fill o-rings for damages.
The hydrogen sulfur gaz itself is not dangerous for health but what is causing it may not be the best to ingest.

L.
 
I have been getting Hampton, va municipal water add I gave the pay 20 years. I don't think source is a problem. I did, however use a pocket hose, one of those expanding hoses. I suspect this might be tbe source my problem. I can change hoses, but need to rid the system of contaminants.

Thalia all.

Gordon
 
Damn ipad typing!
 
Gordon J said:
Well, maybe not Denmark, but at least in my water tanks. I have two 125 gallon stainless tanks and for the first time am getting rotten egg smell - bad- from the water. Obviously something is growing and dying in the tanks/water system. I thought of shocking with chlorine, but remember something about stainless and chlorine.. Maybe not an issue. Anyone have any thoughts? Head Mistress? Gordon
Click to expand...

If it's ONLY your hot water that stinks, the problem is most likely to be a failed anode--if your water heater has one, which would require it to have a glass lined tank--or failed anodizing on the walls of metal water heater tanks that don't have have replaceable anodes. Anodizing doesn't last forever in a water heater.

If both your cold and hot water stink, it sounds like your entire fresh water system is in need of recommissioning.

[FONT=&quot]These directions for doing that conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles (which includes boats). The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated (and yes, it's safe to follow them no matter what the tank material):

Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete.

Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded.

1. Put a few gallons of water into the tank then add 1 quart Clorox or Purex household bleach (5-7% sodium hypochlorite solution ) per 50 gal water tank capacity.
2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines.
3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.
4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat.
5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.
6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.

An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember that a filter is not a substitute for periodic recommissioning the system, and that filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.

[/FONT]
 
I poor in a shot glass of bleach every time I fill the tank.
 
As you use water, air containing bacteria is drawn into the tank. No matter how clean the new water is, you always have airborne bacteria. If you don't routinely add some bacteria killer you will have growth. If you buy a pool test kit and keep the chlorine content at the lowest marker you will probably never taste the chlorine. Or add filters after the tanks as I did. Your tanks and lines are always clean.
 
I have used Aquabon in my water tanks since the mid 80's and have always had fresh smelling and tasting water. It works for me and I'll continue using it until I find something better or cheaper.

I do however recommend following Peggy's recommendations for a thorough cleaning first. The Aquabon is just for maintenance of the water after the system has been thoroughly cleaned.
 
On my sailboat I would disinfect the tanks yearly and then use a bit of bleach with the water on every fill. This year, I disinfected the system when I bought the boat using Peggie's recommendations and then didn't treat the water that I added over the year.

I am going to disinfect again and this time use some type of treatment, aiming to keep the chlorine at around 1 ppm.

The Puriclean and the Aqua Clean tabs look like a good option instead of bleach. More expensive, but easier on the system. Also more convenient than liquid bleach. Hopkins-Carter, the US distributor shows they are out of stock on the their website.

The other option would be to use other forms of sodium dichloroisocyanurate. It is commonly used in pools and spas the same reason. It would be readily available and cheaper in that form, I just need to figure out how many grams of sodium dichloroisocyanurate is in the various forms and do the math to come up with the amount to give me 1 ppm for normal treatment and maybe 50 ppm for disensfecting.
 
Lou_tribal said:
Like Mr RTF mentioned this smell is hydrogen sulfur and may have many origins, from natural gaz in the water to decomposing organic material. You may have got a bad water load or got something in your tank.
I would empty my tanks, add a dose of chlorine diluted in water, fill in some water, empty again the tank after few minutes or hours and fill up again with clean water. And of course do not forget to circulate chlorinated water in all your plumbing so open faucet in all places. Chlorine should not be a danger for your tank and plumbing if it is not too concentrated and you do not keep it there for too long, so look more for multiple rinse. Check also your deck fill o-rings for damages.
The hydrogen sulfur gaz itself is not dangerous for health but what is causing it may not be the best to ingest.

L.
Click to expand...

I agree with your recommendations Lou, but I thought I better clarify the risk of rotten egg gas.

Hydrogen Sulfide (H2S) can be extremely dangerous. It is detectable by smell at less than 1 part per million. Levels above 500 ppm are deadly. Be careful, because levels above 300 ppm kill off your sense of smell so you may think the risk is gone.
H2S is heavier than air, so it may collect in low lying areas like the bilge. It is also flammable.
Take care with hydrogen sulfide.
 
Thanks Peggy

HeadMistress said:
If it's ONLY your hot water that stinks, the problem is most likely to be a failed anode--if your water heater has one, which would require it to have a glass lined tank--or failed anodizing on the walls of metal water heater tanks that don't have have replaceable anodes. Anodizing doesn't last forever in a water heater.

If both your cold and hot water stink, it sounds like your entire fresh water system is in need of recommissioning.

[FONT=&quot]These directions for doing that conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles (which includes boats). The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated (and yes, it's safe to follow them no matter what the tank material):

Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete.

Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded.

1. Put a few gallons of water into the tank then add 1 quart Clorox or Purex household bleach (5-7% sodium hypochlorite solution ) per 50 gal water tank capacity.
2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines.
3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.
4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat.
5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.
6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.

An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember that a filter is not a substitute for periodic recommissioning the system, and that filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.

[/FONT]
Click to expand...

Thanks Peggy.
 
I have a 70 gallon SS water tank and all copper water lines. So far since 1998 when I got the boat, not had any water quality issues. Copper kills bacteria, so maybe enough copper ions migrate into the tank, just don't know.
I fill up with city water and that has residual chlorine.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antimicrobial_properties_of_copper

http://www.antimicrobialcopper.org/us/how-it-works

I think if you put copper mesh in a water tank, the water would stay fresh and clean. Copper mesh comes on rolls and is easy to get.
An access panel in the tank would make it easy, but otherwise create small copper mesh balls and drop them into the tank?
 
Last edited:
do not shock or clean SS with Chlorine.
Austenitic ie 300 series SS is susceptible to Chloride corrosion cracking.
Vinegar is ok, lots of good food grade commercial cleaners but stay away from anything bleach based.
 
So I was wrong

HeadMistress said:
If it's ONLY your hot water that stinks, the problem is most likely to be a failed anode--if your water heater has one, which would require it to have a glass lined tank--or failed anodizing on the walls of metal water heater tanks that don't have have replaceable anodes. Anodizing doesn't last forever in a water heater.

If both your cold and hot water stink, it sounds like your entire fresh water system is in need of recommissioning.

[FONT=&quot]These directions for doing that conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles (which includes boats). The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated (and yes, it's safe to follow them no matter what the tank material):

Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete.

Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of ice—the bucket generated during recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded.

1. Put a few gallons of water into the tank then add 1 quart Clorox or Purex household bleach (5-7% sodium hypochlorite solution ) per 50 gal water tank capacity.
2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines.
3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.
4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat.
5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.
6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.

An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember that a filter is not a substitute for periodic recommissioning the system, and that filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.

[/FONT]
Click to expand...

I went back to double check my inspection and found that the smell is coming from the hotwater only. My tank is a Torrid MV-20 which is glass lined. I did not see any place to replace an anode.

Is the procedure still to flush with Chorine?

Thanks
gordon
 
Contact Torrid...according to their website Torrid Marine Water Heaters it does have a replaceable anode.

Although that's most likely what's needed to cure your problem, recommisioning the system--annually, in fact--is still recommended because it's the plumbing, not the tank, that's the source of most foul water problems.

While I have the floor...I've never seen the need for "whole house" water filters...you don't need filtered water to take a shower, wash your face, shave, do laundry...in fact, only for cooking and drinking. So all you really need, if anything, is a faucet filter on the galley sink. If your tank water is funky, recommissioning the system is the real solution.
 
IMO a source for stuff that grows in your tank is water hoses and dock water lines that have not been used for a while. Stuff could be growing in them while they bake in the sun. I always run water until it gets cooler before putting into the tank.

Use your own hose not one left on the dock, especially one near a pump out facility.[:D]
 
Gordon J said:
I went back to double check my inspection and found that the smell is coming from the hotwater only. My tank is a Torrid MV-20 which is glass lined. I did not see any place to replace an anode.

Is the procedure still to flush with Chorine?

Thanks
gordon
Click to expand...

Here's where it's found.

Torrid Marine Replace Anode
 
Why not use copper??
Copper kills 99.99% of bacteria and inactivates viruses within 2 hours.
And it does not matter if it is oxidized, it still kills.
Copper continually protects water with no thinking-user maintenance on your part.

Copper kills 99.9% of bacteria within two hours! – InvestmentWatch

Storing Drinking-water in Copper pots Kills Contaminating Diarrhoeagenic Bacteria

Microbially-unsafe water is still a major concern in most developing countries. Although many water-purification methods exist, these are expensive and beyond the reach of many people, especially in rural areas. Ayurveda recommends the use of copper for storing drinking-water. Therefore, the objective of this study was to evaluate the effect of copper pot on microbially-contaminated drinking-water

Studies have shown that copper surfaces completely kill bacteria. E. coli inoculated on to copper coupons were completely killed. The studies concluded that the copper ions brought about complete killing of bacteria by membrane damage However, the mechanism of action of copper on bacteria is not completely understood.
 
Last edited:
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