Time for Genset Maintenance 101

Got all my filters and impellers changed on all three engines. With the exception of the 1? 2? fuel filters on my Westerbeke 8kw. See pics below. I know #1 is the fuel filter and I believe #2 is the fuel lift. Parts diagram shows a filter in the lift. Is it changed at the same rate or with the small fuel filter? Last, do I have to shut off the fuel flow in order to change the filters? I don't see any means to do that other than flipping the valve on the manifold letting fuel go to the generator. Does the fuel flow stop at some point or just keep on coming?

Thanks for any help!

i have the same generator... interesting you have high pressure hydraulic lines on feed and return... totally overkill.

anyway ya 2 is pump you don't change it unless its broken and yes just shut off manifold and use a catch can under filter.. i've done mine twice and fuel won't flow past pump (YMMV)

#2 has a filter under the bottom cap (WB P/N 030548). The cap twists off like a bayonett light bulb. There is a hex nut as part of the cap to put on a wrench. There is also a magnet inside to be cleaned. That filter on mine was so munged up it looked like it had never been changed in 30 years. I changed the #1 filter first then #2. Reason being you do not want anything to get past #1 because the next stop is the injection pump.

The filter in the pump is just to save the pump valves. If you have clean fuel, it will last the life of the pump.
You should have 2 fuel lines. Supply and return. If all your fuel is below the engine, then you may not have a shut off in the return, just the supply. The pump over supplies some amount fuel that is returned to the tank via the return.
You'll have to bleed the air out of the fuel and injector lines.
It is a nice clean setup you have.

Have no idea on why those hoses. Just bought the boat 2 months ago and this is how it came. My Westerbeke spares box that also came along in the deal has the smaller filters as well as one that looks like it would fit in the fuel lift. Why wouldn't that filter get changed as well? Appears that is the first place the fuel goes and then on to the small one. Wouldn't the first filter get dirty? I have a little concern as one of the things I am dealing with is a load of bad fuel which was dirty and caused issues with my Racors and on engine filters. Nothing terrible but they were much dirtier than I think they should have been and the PO confirmed some suspect fuel. Going to use it until about 1/2 full, below the access port on the tanks and then get them cleaned and fuel polished.

My Westerbeake 8Kw self bleeds, may take some cranking, but if all else is good, it will start.

From what I read on mine it is self bleeding. Again, my concern is the shape that this fuel lift filter is in due to bad diesel. Think I should change it unless someone more knowledgeable says different. If I do, any particular tricks or things to watch out for when doing so? I believe the nut underneath come off and drops down. Then the filter twists off?

Of, forgot, on the small fuel filter, does it just pull off? Looks like a ring that snaps in?

firstbase said:

From what I read on mine it is self bleeding. Again, my concern is the shape that this fuel lift filter is in due to bad diesel. Think I should change it unless someone more knowledgeable says different. If I do, any particular tricks or things to watch out for when doing so? I believe the nut underneath come off and drops down. Then the filter twists off?

Of, forgot, on the small fuel filter, does it just pull off? Looks like a ring that snaps in?

Click to expand...

No the #1 filter has a threaded retainer ring. Normal right-hand thread but made of plastic so don't over torque.
Re-read post #3.

Yes, I got the part about the threaded ring. Just wondering how the filter comes off once it is exposed. Just pull down and out it comes?

On the #2 fuel lift filter, where is the magnet that needs cleaning?

Newbs. We are pain in the a$$.

Bendix style pumps are pretty simple to maintain. Here are some instructions.
Replacing A Facet Fuel Pump Filter Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

firstbase said:

Yes, I got the part about the threaded ring. Just wondering how the filter comes off once it is exposed. Just pull down and out it comes?

On the #2 fuel lift filter, where is the magnet that needs cleaning?

Newbs. We are pain in the a$$.

Click to expand...

The #2 filter element pretty much falls out when the bottom cap is removed. If not, pull down and out.
#1 is held by the rubber on the top of the element. Same down and out.
The magnet is in the center of the inside of the fuel pump bottom cap.

Thanks for the info. Simple enough. Was leery of what I didn't know that I didn't know so to speak. My last concern will be restarting. I know the pump is self priming but seems like the filters and lift holds a good amount of fuel. I would think it takes a significant amount of cranking to get it primed and running again...have to watch for raw water backing up. Doesn't appear to be any way to manually add fuel to the system to get a head start on priming.

Pretty sure a lot of fuel is pumped when you hold the prestart switch down for 5 to 10 seconds before cranking.

If it does't start after a second 15 second crank or so, and you have a waterline muffler.....

You may have to drain the muffler before continuing....at least I guess that's about right being conservative.

One more, draining the muffler just in case... Just disconnect exhaust hose and let it flow out? Any links to a "Drain your muffler" thread appreciated.

A waterlift muffler usually has a small plug or screw on the side near the bottom. That would be the drain.

You could also close the seacock until the engine starts.

Ken

Unplug the fuel pump lead and jump it to 12V at the preheat solenoid. Let it run a couple minutes and it will prime it up.

To prime, my manual says to hold down the preheat switch for 30 seconds and then start. If needed, do so again for 20 to 30 additional seconds, that attempt to start again. I had to do that this weekend after a filter change.

Two other things:

1. Is the Oil Filter painted red?

2. May want to have a spare fuel solenoid on hand if traveling. I changed mine out a year or so ago and it's already acting up again. That's the only issue I've had from my generator.

The round fuel pumps have a filter, the box shaped fuel pumps that were also used on some year 8 KW westies do not.

Second the comment on carrying a spare fuel solenoid. While I have always carried a spare there have been times where it took me a month to get the correct replacement.

You should read carefully the manual on adjusting the fuel solenoid and for ease of adjustment in the future tape instructions to the inside of the sound cage indicating which way to turn the nut to increase/decrease the rpms.

My 8kw Westerbeke is set for 61.2 hertz with only the house load. With two chargers and the waterheater it will drop to 58 hertz for 15 minutes and then climb from there.

clynn said:

To prime, my manual says to hold down the preheat switch for 30 seconds and then start. If needed, do so again for 20 to 30 additional seconds, that attempt to start again. I had to do that this weekend after a filter change.

Two other things:

1. Is the Oil Filter painted red?

2. May want to have a spare fuel solenoid on hand if traveling. I changed mine out a year or so ago and it's already acting up again. That's the only issue I've had from my generator.

Click to expand...

Well, you know...I hadn't gotten that far on either of those. The oil filter is red and darn if it doesn't look painted. This is the far side of the generator and it takes a wiggling to get back there and see it. I can't imagine painting a filter to match an engine but the PO was pretty OCD about the boat in general. Huh. I didn't pay close attention to it but will when I get back to the boat in the next day or two. On the solenoid, I would think that would be a good spare to have. Again, just haven't gotten there yet.