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RickB wrote:
If you have a little spare cash and are looking for bragging rights, install one of these.
****** Interesting!* When I added a fuel polishing system I chose the Algae X (not for their claims but rather for their filter and pump set up) & plumbed it in to the fuel line that comes off the bottom of the tank(s). I may not get 100% of the water at the bottom of the tank(s) but I'm getting most of it.The flow rate on this system is 130 gals/hr...not enough to really scour the bottom of the tank but then I believe no system creates enough turbulence to really clean the bottom of the tank. It must be done mechanically. My goal was to simply remove particulate & water contamination from the fuel, before it gets to the primary filter.

In the photo below you can just barely see the supply line (blue) to the fuel polisher (bottom left of pic) running under the tank. (Part of the clean out, white ring, is visible behind the black hoses.)
 

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...not enough to really scour the bottom of the tank but then I believe no system creates enough turbulence to really clean the bottom of the tank.

Most of the deposits are on the side walls and baffles inside the tank.

That is why motion causes fuel surge that strips the gunk increases so much.

Pulling water from a SUMP will work better than just near the bottom, but its hard to refit.
 
SeaHorse II wrote:****** Interesting!* When I added a fuel polishing system I chose the Algae X (not for their claims but rather for their filter and pump set up) & plumbed it in to the fuel line that comes off the bottom of the tank(s). I may not get 100% of the water at the bottom of the tank(s) but I'm getting most of it.The flow rate on this system is 130 gals/hr...not enough to really scour the bottom of the tank but then I believe no system creates enough turbulence to really clean the bottom of the tank. It must be done mechanically. My goal was to simply remove particulate & water contamination from the fuel, before it gets to the primary filter.
In the photo below you can just barely see the supply line (blue) to the fuel polisher (bottom left of pic) running under the tank. (Part of the clean out, white ring, is visible behind the black hoses.)

*If you polish when the tanks are near empty while in a slop, whatever crud is in there is highly likely to end up in the filters.

Nice setup.
 
Mr. B,
*
My oh my are you predictable, you are one of those guys who has always followed the status quo, anything that is different is an enemy, a bad idea, wrong, communist or in some way evil. You are driven to rally against it, as though the idea itself is contrary to your entire way of life, right until one person you respect or admire tells you it is a good idea, then you will fight just a vehemently for that ideal or idea. Rather than looking at the merit or fault of the concept, you simply attempt to rally any information or speculation you have at your disposal against it and lacking substantial substance you resort to Ad hominem attacks, sad really and below your abilities, step it up a notch wont you, discussions can be educational while*watching a pit bull pull against its leash is just annoying. While this all makes you an annoying and rather tedious person to converse with,*it also makes you*an amusing challenge. *

Tell us just how a single drop of water is going to destroy most injectors and for sure tell us what makes the fuel rail "blow off the motor."
Mind you a "drop" is a huge chunk of water to make it through the industry standard 2 micron final filter used on common rail systems. It looks like you might benefit by spending some time looking at fuel filter specs and injection systems.
*
The Basics of diesel engines and diesel fuels
Jon Van Gerpen
University of Idaho
"Water damage is a leading cause of premature failure of fuel injection systems."
*
Filter Manufacturers Council
Technical Service Bulletin 95-1R2
"Water is the greatest concern because it is the most common form of contaminant water can cause damage to injector components and reduce the lubricity of the fuel which can cause seizure of close tolerance components such as those found in fuel pump assemblies."
*
Fleetguard Bulletin 10093
"fuel water separation is a critical requirement with High Pressure Common Rail (HPCR) fuel systems."
*
Chatham Fuel Injection Service
Tech Tips- Split Cummins Injector Cups
"Water in the fuel can cause a cup to split, although a more common result is that the tip section of the cup is broken off we have seen cases where a large portion of the cup actually breaks off and causes further damage to the engine."
*
I have in my shop seen Cummins HPCR engines with the rail itself split along the entire top of the rail, this was caused by running home made biodiesel (Diesel can absorb as much as 50ppm of water, biopdiesel can absorb as much as 1500ppm [10,000ppm = 1%]), this biodiesel had been water washed and not properly dried. The water separated and collected in the tank bottom, was picked up by the pump and compressed*to about 20,000 psi as the truck drove down the highway. The same mechanism that took place here also takes place in fuel injectors and injection components as the boiling point, saturation temperature and point of phase transition change in relation to both ambient temperature and pressure (as expressed by the Clausius-Clapeyron equation).
*
As this phase change occurs in tiny droplets of water the surrounding fluid under great pressure collapses inward to occupy the space that had been occupied by the liquid, which is now a vapor, this fluid forms a point, which, when it impacts with the metal the droplet was sitting on, causes a depression in the metal. In the fuel industry damage caused by this physiochemical change in the structure of water in the fuel is referred to as Cavitation Corrosion.
*
This has been the major stumbling block in the development of emulsified fuels such as Lubrinox and Purinox, both diesel fuels containing high percentages of emulsified water, both reducing NOX and increasing mileage by volume of distillate used. This same mechanism of failure is what causes damage to injection pumps and fuel injectors when water is present in the fuel.

"Getting a drop (app. 60 microliters) into a common rail fuel system takes considerable effort and the total failure of every filter and separator between the fuel tank and the injector. Not to mention that by the time it got there it would be homogenized with the fuel anyway."

Simply and patently not true. Many fuel water separators rely on the centrifugal force of the fuel as it passes through a vortex inducing deflector placed above the fuel bowl and below the filter element, the idea is that as the fuel spins out of this deflector, the heavier water droplets will fall into the bowl and not be drawn up through the filter media. If the droplet is large enough to have a significant difference in weight as offset by flow, then it drops, if it is small, it simply gets drawn into the filter. Filters employ several methods to prevent the passage of water. Some are treated with a chemical that repels water droplets, similar to Scotchguard or Gore Tex, others are treated so that the fibers of the filter swell when exposed to water and prevent the passage of water and fuel and still others have a water trap employing Teflon coated stainless steel which uses the surface tension of water to prevent it from passing through.

The Bosch HPCR system is one of the most common in use today, it is used on the Cummins and Mercedes engines, lets look at the Cummins. Fuel is drawn through a simple paper media filter with a bowl in the bottom, it is drawn into the CP3 high pressure fuel pump where it is pressurized and sent into the HPCR which is a tube to which each injector is attached. This tube had a pressure relief valve through which fuel is returned to the tank.

If significant water builds up in the filter on the engine, it will pass into the CP3 pump, then into the HPCR and injectors, it will not be Homogenized with the fuel, in fact the use of the word Homogenized really has absolutely no application here. Homogenization is a process used to make mutually related substances mixed equally throughout or to form an equal emulsion. Now this is an interesting topic because the ability to make an emulsion of oil and water is very difficult and even you may be familiar with the phrase oil and water dont mix, well they can be mixed but with great difficulty, mechanically and usually in the presence of an acid.

So back to the impossibility of getting water into a HPCR system; Well since the on engine filter has no ability to prevent the passage of water we much be relying on whatever filter the boat builder put between the tank and the engine. In the US this would likely be a Racor marine filter with a clear bowl and as discussed this filter relies on the assumption that the fuel is being moved at high volume (to achieve enough speed through the vortex inducing rings to impart centrifugal force) and that the agglomerated Free water will collect in the bowl and be noticed before it gets to the top of the filter or will cause the filter media to swell or become completely blocked and starve the engine for fuel. So rather than requiring Considerable effort and the total failure of every filter and separator between the fuel tank and the injector we see that it only requires that water be present in the fuel system and that the presence of agglomerated water is not noticed until the filter can contain no more.

All this is why water is the number one cause of damage to diesel fuel systems and historically has been so. It is an issue in trucks, generators, aviation and particularly on boats where the tanks are often in the hull where there is a temperature differential between the tank temperature and the ambient air temp and where the air often has very high humidity. This coupled with a fuel system which returns heated fuel to the tank is a perfect formula for the formation of condensation in the fuel tank. Condensation collects, bacteria forms in the water, the waste product of the bacteria is an acid, the acid causes the breakdown of the tank and while all this is going on, the unstable nature of diesel fuel is causing asphaltines and other compounds to form as the fuel breaks down.

It is also worth remembering that these same processes go on in the tank farm, transport trucks and tanks at the pumping facility where leaking fills allow ground water into the fuel, condensation, temperature changes while rail cars sit in the Arizona sun, then on a siding in the mountains of Colorado. The unfortunate fact is that diesel fuel is not stable and is prone to contamination and breakdown, this is why truckers change their fuel filters with every oil change and diesel fuel filters are large and contain water traps and even water sensors, this is not because the issue does not exist, it is because it does. So you can convince yourself that water in diesel fuel does not exist, that it is a spectre, a phantom and a figment of my imagination I am trying to use to frighten you into buying something. But the fact remains that it is the single most common issue with diesel engines today and always has been due to the nature of the fuel and the design of the fuel systems.

The tank is built with a draw straw that does not go to the bottom of the tank to allow a space for water to accumulate, yet no provision is made to remove it. The filters have water separators in them and some even have alarms which will alert the operator that water is now in the filter, and some savvy operators may even have a vacuum gauge and or alarm, they may also have redundant filters and a manifold allowing them to change from one filter to the other while the engine is running. They have all this because diesel is prone to contamination and water collection and they are hoping to be alerted in time to get to the filters and manually switch them before the engine stops or is damaged, this is a fact, it is why fuel vacuum gauges, water in fuel detectors and multi filter manifolds exist, because the problem exists.

These devices alert the operator that there is water accumulating in the filter and it needs to be drained before damage occurs or the engine stops, they alert the operator that contaminants have plugged the filter to the point where the fuel system will no longer be capable of supplying the engine with enough fuel to run, and they provide a method of changing the filter to a clean one without shutting the motor down. My device does exactly the same things, in fact it does them all and it does them automatically without the need for manual intervention leaving the engine operator at the controls rather than crawling around in the engine room/bay.

So we have established that water in fuel is the leading cause of damage to diesel engines. We have established that not only does the problem exist but that the current methods of dealing with it require manual intervention and are therefore lacking and we have established that my device does exactly what a well appointed fuel system should do (warn of filter plugging and water) as well as having the benefit of switching automatically.

Through this process you should also have noted the benefits of the installation of a desiccant filter on the fuel tank vent, Ill let you have that one for free. You may have also come to understand why large vessels often have filters and centrifuges which clean the fuel from the bulk tank and fill a clean "Day tank", its not becasue the fuel was dirty when it was put in the bulk tank, it is becasue it became dirty while in the tank through accumulation of water via condensation and the natural breakdown of the fuel.



-- Edited by cgoodwin on Monday 25th of July 2011 10:48:21 AM


-- Edited by cgoodwin on Monday 25th of July 2011 10:51:11 AM
 
Hmmm!! *I'm glad I read this string, it explains a lot about the causes of tank water problems, sludge and filtration. *I've heard conflicting information about the harm caused by water vapor in the tanks.

I've also experienced moisture my diesel fuel and the information provided helps me to understand cause, effect and how to treat the problem.

Thanks for the Information.

Larry B*
 
"The tank is built with a draw straw that does not go to the bottom of the tank to allow a space for water to accumulate, yet no provision is made to remove it."

This may be a good description of a cheap setup in a production boat or TT , but it is not usually the standard of better built boats.

You only get what you ask for , and are willing to pay for , so most of the tank problems are caused by the lack of knowledge of the initial purchaser.
 
Chris--- So let's go back to your original post, which asked for comments on whether or not we (the participants on this forum) would be interested in your fuel monitoring device. I can only speak for myself and a few other boaters I know particularly well, but I would say no, your proposed system is of no interest and I would not consider installing or having one installed on our boat. And I feel pretty safe in saying that the other boaters in our area I've come to know well would not have any interest either.

My reasoning with regards to our own boat is thus: We use the boat year round. We buy fuel from sources that have very clean fuel. Water in our fuel has never been an issue in the thirteen years we've owned the boat. We never get even a trace of water or dirt in the Racors. Our tanks feed from the bottom so accumulations of water and crud in the tanks is not a significant issue. Fuel does not sit that long on our boat. We've been in rough water (for here) for several hours at a time with fuel sloshing around in the tanks--- yesterday being a good example of this-- and our engines have never missed a beat. Our boat is not powered with modern engines that are super-picky about what they are fed. The boat is very old and adding fancy systems to it is generally a pain in the ass what with finding power, running wires, plumbing, finding space for gauges, etc. By the same token, the boat's age means it's very simple, which in turn makes it quite easy to troubleshoot, maintain and repair. Making the boat any more complicated defeats (in my eyes) the advantage of its simplicity.

I will not argue the pros or cons of the working of your system as it's not a subject I know much about. But based on our experience with our boat and the experience the boaters I know personally have had with their boats over the last 13 years we've been involved with this kind of boating, I would have to agree with Rick's initial assessment that, for the typical recreational, coastal, fair-weather boater, the system you propose does seem like a complex solution looking for a problem which, for the vast majority of recreational boaters, doesn't exist.* At least not in their minds.

No doubt there are plenty of examples of specific boats in specific situations that might have benefitted from a warning device such as you propose. But I assume that's not what you were asking. I assume you were asking if we (I) feel there is a market for a warning system as you describe, which to me means a market large enough to make developing, manufacturing, distributing, and supporting the product a profitable venture.

I do not believe this market exists in recreational boating. The boaters who participate in forums like this and get all anal about polishing fuel and discussing filter sizes ad nauseum are but a tiny fraction of the total number of boaters out there. Doesn't matter if it's a 25 foot cruiser or a 125' yacht, most owners simply turn the key and go. If it runs, great, if it doesn't they call someone to fix it. Or, like me, they want a boat that is very simple and so is very easy to troubleshoot and repair themselves. But I suspect the vast majority of boaters don't even know how the toilet in their boat works, let alone the fuel system in their engines. And I suspect most boaters don't care (about either the toilet or the fuel system).

We just had our boat out in the islands over the last four days. It was a rare (for here) nice weekend so there were a fair number of cruising boats about. The number one make represented was Bayliner by far. After that, there were plenty of "trawer-type" boats--- CHBs, GBs, etc. We also saw a number of Tollycrafts, which is a very popular brand up here for good reason. And there were plenty of other brands and one-offs and conversions out and about, too.

While I have no way of proving this, I suspect the majority of the boaters we saw are perfectly happy with the way their boats are now and would have little to no interest in the expense or effort of installing any sort of sophisticated fuel monitoring system outside of what their boats have now, if they have anything at all other than the usual lineup of filters.

Couple this with the fact that most boats spend most of the year just sitting. While that actually makes a case for some sort of fuel quality monitoring system, it says even more about the owners. Their boats are hobbies and they use them when they can or it's convenient, and the rest of the time they probably don't think much about them. These are not the kind of people who are going to get all wrapped around the axle about whether or not there are traces of water in their fuel.

Forums like this can give a very deceptive view of boating. Reading them, it's easy to think everyone is very conscientious about their fuel quality and the condition of every system on their boat.* Where in fact I believe reality is the exact opposite. There are 2,000 registered members of this particular forum. Of that only a fraction participate regularly and only a handful have commented one way or the other on your original post. There are over 2,000 boats in our marina alone, and ours is not the largest marina in the PNW by any means. Most of the privately owned boats in our marina are probably used just a few times a year if that. Their owners are not going to be cueing up to buy your (or anyone else's) fuel monitoring device.

This has nothing to do with the viability of your proposed device. I'll leave that debate to people like Rick and others who understand diesels and their fuel requirements, particularly modern diesels. But in terms of whether or not your proposed product--- good, bad, or indifferent--- has a viable market I would say no, particularly in the arena of recreational boating.

PS--- When we are up at our boat during the year, or out on it, we usually have the VHF on.* So we hear a lot of the distress calls, either both sides of the conversation or at least the US or Canadian coast guard side.* Distress calls could be a fairly accurate representation of the sorts of problems boaters in this area encounter.

While I've not kept any sort of numbers, the most common causes for distress calls in our waters are out of fuel or aground.* After that are mechanical problems, often with steering.* "Dead engine" is not uncommon but unfortunately we never hear why the engine died.* From our own experience and from the experiences of boaters we know, cooling issues are often to blame for the "dead engine" problem.

How many "dead engine" distress calls up*here*are the result of contaminated fuel?* Impossible to say based on what we hear on the radio.* But my guess is not that many.* So if you really want to make a dent in the number of boater-in-distress situations up here, figure out some sort of automatic gizmo that whacks a boater in the head or gives him an electric shock if he miscalculates the amount of fuel he needs for each trip :)


-- Edited by Marin on Tuesday 26th of July 2011 07:19:09 PM
 
Chris,

I pretty much agree with what Marin has said.*

For the most part the folks I know do not know anything about their fuel or their engines.* Some think they do but in reality they do not.

So I would say the system may be good but the cost and complications it would or could incur would out weigh it's value to the average boater.

But hey rumor has it that*the guy that came up with FedEx*got a C for his*Economics course with his plan for FedEX.* So who knows.
 
Just for grins I took some time off my campaign to prevent new ideas from reaching boat owners and did some rough calculations on what a fuel vent line dessicant filter would look like ...

Assuming the boat lives in the middle latitudes, not the sub tropics or some semi-arid part of the country, has a pair of 200 gallon fuel tanks that sit half empty nearly all the time, you want the dew point to be below freezing, and you use silica gel as the dessicant of choice since it is easy to find, safe to use, can be regenerated at home or in the boat's own oven, the filter spec's out something like this:

Length = 8 inches* Diameter = 6 inches

Weight of dessicant = 6 lbs.

Price of dessicant fill = $40 to 60 dollars online plus shipping

Length of time before filter needs changing = ~90 days

Multiply the cost by 2 since each tank requires a filter, or if both tanks use the same filter then the duration of effective use is halved. Use the boat and the time will be greatly reduced. Make sure you never "burp" the tank. *

This is why in real life the few places you will find such vent filters*are on hydraulic systems or other sensitive systems such as wind turbine gearboxes with a fixed volume of hygroscopic*oil*that*are exposed to frequent and extreme environmental conditions.

Suggesting that using such a filter is another example of a solution looking for a problem.
 
JD and Marin - Thank you for taking the time to respond so concisely.

*

Desiccant filter If you take the time to do even a little research you will find that there are all sorts of reusable desiccants as well as other methods of preventing this particular source of water. Condensation is formed when moisture rich air enters a fuel tank with enough of a delta T to allow the formation of droplets on the surface of the tank, break any link in the chain and the process falls apart. You can stop the entrance of moist air via a desiccant filter to dry the air or you can adjust the temperature of the tank by installing a return fuel cooler, as simple as a $20 automotive automatic transmission cooler, this will reduce the temp of the heated fuel being returned to the tank no temperature differential, no condensation formation.

This has another effect on fuel stability as well The rate of chemical reactions doubles for every 14F/10C increase in T (Arrhenius Equation). Many older diesel engines moved as much as 60gph wile burning 2 to 8gph, they did this because they used the diesel fuel as a lubricant and coolant for the pump, injection pump and injectors, they needed such high flow rates because diesel is a piss poor lubricant and tolerances of mechanical injection systems are very tight. Diesel fuel suffers terribly from oxidation, it is the primary mechanism of the breakdown of the fuel and the rate of oxidation depends on the availability of 02, the availability of other accelerants and the temperature of the fuel reducing temperature removes or lessens one link in the chain.

The other accelerants (other than temperature and 02) are contact with Copper or Zinc (as little as 2ppm Cu can reduce oxidative stability by 25%), water, bacteria (which need water to survive). According to ASTM D2276 indicates the amount of gum and sediment forms after 16 hrs at 248F/120C which is said to correspond to one year storage at 77F/25C which should give you a good example of the Arrhenius Equation at work. These rates of degradation can be quadrupled in the presence of accelerants.

Ideally the fuel tank would be composed of non-reactive metals as would all fuel lines and fittings (ever wonder why copper is no longer used for fuel lines and many new fuel fittings are steel rather than brass?), the temp of the fuel would be kept low (reducing the formation of condensation and lowering the rate of chemical reactions) and availability of 02 would be reduced. As an example of the best practices for storage, I store fuel in Plastic HDPE 275 gallon IBC Totes in a cool place, filled nearly to the top and before closing them I fill the head space with C02.

Which this is more information than you likely need it does give you some food for thought. Anything you can do to mitigate any of the contributing factors to fuel breakdown will be of benefit not only to the stability of the fuel but the fuel tank as well.

Notes:

Automatic transmission coolers are inexpensive from sources like Summit Racing or Jegs be sure to look for aluminum rather than copper ones.

Small marine oil coolers can also be used for fuel assuming that you have a supply of cool flowing water Heat pump return lines are an example.

Google Reusable desiccant

*

Have fun.

*
 
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