Bow plate

Hello,
I am loking at adding a bow plate (not sure if the term is he exact one) on my boat? I mean the metal plate on the bow, below the anchor that protect the hull. How these are fastened? Are they glued on the hull or are they fastened from inside?
My boat has none and it would be a nice addition to protect the bow from contact with the sharp end of the anchor. Moreover I find it is very nice

Thank you for any info about this.

L.

Depending on how well the metal fits to the hull, you could bed it in thickened epoxy. I think that I would still add a couple of through bolts just in case.

Addition to my question: Any idea about where to get one made custom? I guess must be difficult without having a mold of the bow for the shape...

L.

"Cutwater"

Bedded and sealed in 5200 works too

Rather than adding extra holes in the bow structure you maybe able to mount it under and use your bow eye to act as a clamp to the hull

Greetings,
Mr. L_t. Easiest solution...Dull the sharp end of your anchor.

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Mr. L_t. Easiest solution...Dull the sharp end of your anchor.

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Dear Mr RTF, life looks so simple with you, I should have married you!

L.

rt firefly said:

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lol!

I had one made by UMT in Ft. Lauderdale of 316 stainless, they came to boat to make a form. Three weeks later they installed with 4200 (not 5200 in case it needed to be removed) and short SS crews that didn't penetrate the hull. Best money I ever spent and I even was able to design the shape.

Our H-38 was delivered with the plate installed. There are screws around the outer edges of the plate to hold it on. There is probably a bedding compound under it, but I don't know. But it is very effective. We have dinged ours quite a few times. But we do cruise full time so the anchor does get a workout. It should have bedding compound behid the plate, but having screws around the edges is not a problem.

Thank you all for the information ( yes Mr RTF even you lol ).
I was thinking about epoxy but I did not think of 5200.
One of these day I may exercise my skills of bodybuilder (for car body not muscle, just to be precise before our Mr RTF post a pic of Hulk Hogan lol) with a sheet of stainless steel to see how it comes out.

Best Regards,

L.

Lou

I avoided epoxy because I wants an elastic cushion under the plate and I chose 4200 just in case the plated needed to come off for a reason such as a different anchor that may strike the bow in a different place. Or if I wanted to remove the plate. Just sayin.

For a Danforth or Danforth copy the rubbers fitted to chair legs work well at making the cross arm less dangerous.

Bigsfish said:

...they installed with 4200 (not 5200 in case it needed to be removed) and short SS crews that didn't penetrate the hull...

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tadhana said:

...There are screws around the outer edges of the plate to hold it on. There is probably a bedding compound under it, but I don't know. But it is very effective...

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We added one on our sailboat and mounted it the same way as Bigfish and tadhana. The CQR tip had chipped the fiberglass a bunch of rimes during retrieval in rough weather. Surprisingly the piece of ss i mounted was only about 4" square. Since I knew the area where tip hit the hull it was pretty easy to size and place.

Hi Larry

So Hobo wasn't slow enough so you bought a sailboat? LMFAO

Bigsfish said:

Hi Larry

So Hobo wasn't slow enough so you bought a sailboat? LMFAO

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Irv: Acutally they were both equally fast but we ended up selling the sailboat because it had the wrong anchor. :lol:

Larry

I know you are a smart did you ever think you could just move the anchor from boat to boat? LOL

See you in Ft Pierce for the shindig you and Don are pros at.

Bigsfish said:

I had one made by UMT in Ft. Lauderdale of 316 stainless, they came to boat to make a form. Three weeks later they installed with 4200 (not 5200 in case it needed to be removed) and short SS crews that didn't penetrate the hull. Best money I ever spent and I even was able to design the shape.

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Got any pictures?

Actually no, next time I'm at the boat I'll take one.

Here is a photo

Sorry it isn't better but I found this one taken in the Bahamas and it's faster that waiting until I go to the boat. The plate starts at the rub rail. So far no gel coat damage. I'm happy with this addition.

Bigsfish said:

Sorry it isn't better but I found this one taken in the Bahamas and it's faster that waiting until I go to the boat. The plate starts at the rub rail. So far no gel coat damage. I'm happy with this addition.

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Looks Good!

Thanks

Here's one taken a short time ago.

This is exactly what I would like to install!

L.

Lou

Come down to sunny warm Florida and have UMT measure you up then head to the Bahamas and when you come back they will install it.

Bigsfish said:

Lou

Come down to sunny warm Florida and have UMT measure you up then head to the Bahamas and when you come back they will install it.

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Very good idea Bigfish! Let me check this morning if I can get the 6 month vacation I will need

L.

Lou

I'll be happy to give you a hall pass! ��

Bigsfish said:

Lou

I'll be happy to give you a hall pass! ��

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Thank you very much for your kindness

My pleasure, got to help the Canadians out. LOL

My strike plate is a little different. The boat came with a grey pvc strike plate held on with 1/2" carriage bolts. It was ugly and cracking. I ask Sean if he could make one out of metal. He had other ideas. The holes were filled, glass over, and the bow was refaired. He then stretched molding paper over it and laid up the first layer of bi-axial cloth and polyester. When it cured, he popped it off the bow and did the subsequent layers on his work bench. It's about 1/4" thick, held on with twelve #12 screws around the perimeter, nicely faired, and painted to match the hull. Sean's reason was that it would be easy enough to remove the screws (no bedding), fair and repaint it, if I should ever strike it. I agree, and like how it turned out.



Ted