Upside down oil filter Is this going to spill when we unscrew it

ChesapeakeGem said:

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Is this going to spill in the bilge when we unscrew it?

It will unless you are mighty careful. You may be able to get a large zip-lock bag with absorbent pads under it enough to minimize any spillage. Good luck.

The answer is yes if you just unscrew it. After starting up the motor to get the oil hot then after I shut it down the motor I just punch a couple of hole in the top of the filter and leave it alone for half an hour so it drains back into the engine. Works on our boat with an upside down filter....

rochepoint said:

The answer is yes if you just unscrew it. After starting up the motor to get the oil hot then after I shut it down the motor I just punch a couple of hole in the top of the filter and leave it alone for half an hour so it drains back into the engine. Works on our boat with an upside down filter....

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Do you fill the new replacement filter before you replace it ?
Manuel says to refill it

No, I just start the engine and let it fill itself.

And then add another quart ?

I had Mercruiser 8.1 with an upside-down remote oil filter. Here is what I do:

1) Take an oil absorbing pad and cut a square piece about 3-4" wider than the oil filter.

2) Place the cut square on a board, then place your new oil filter on the square.

3) using a razor, trace the circumference of the oil filter so you cut out a hole the size of the oil filter in the middle of the oil absorbing pad.

4) Slide the pad with the hole over the installed oil filter. This will hopefully catch some of the spillage.

5) punch hole(s) in the top of the oil filter and allow it to drain.

6) remove oil filter

7) use old oil to lube rubber ring on new oil filter.

8) fill new oil filter with oil.

9) 'quick as a hiccup' install the new oil filter.

10) remove oil absorbing pad and clean-up any spillage.

After a while, you'll get pretty good at it. I can do it without spilling any oil.

Good tip thank you [emoji4]

If it becomes bothersome, look into a remote filter setup. My FL120 has one, its much more convenient.

We've owned her for three days now, we must add that to our list

That looks like even a worse idea than the Northern Lights generator where they plug the oil filter in at a 90 degree to the engine.

I will have to try poking holes in the filter before removing--good idea...Thanks.

Ken

Not always, some drain back, but some filters have an anti drain back feature.

Buy drain back ones and make sure it is higher than your oil level and the hoses allow drain back....then less mess.

Or, as I did, relocate and turn the mount so the filter is upside down.

Retired Porsche technician here. We had oil filters that were placed horizontally in the engine bay on air cooled cars and upside down on 944's. With the oil warm, we would punch one hole in the top of the filter and use a rubber tipped air nozzle to blow the oil out. Then a piece of duct tape on the hole and remove the filter. On the boat I use a 12 volt air compressor.

Great idea with the duck tape
And yet another item in our list to buy

Shrew said:

I had Mercruiser 8.1 with an upside-down remote oil filter. Here is what I do:

...

8) fill new oil filter with oil.

9) 'quick as a hiccup' install the new oil filter.

10) remove oil absorbing pad and clean-up any spillage.

After a while, you'll get pretty good at it. I can do it without spilling any oil.

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I can't picture taking a new filter, filled with oil, and tipping it upside-down then trying to line it up on the threads and spin it on without cross-threading, all the way until it seals, without spilling any oil.

I had a Mercruiser (Chevy 350 block) with the same arrangement - upside-down remote filter mounted up high. I loved it. SO much easier in a tight engine compartment than reaching down under the engine to unscrew it, then trying to balance a full filter out through a maze of hoses and wires. My Perkins' also have upside-down filters, also within easy reach.

I always punch a hole in an oil filter to let it drain. There isn't usually enough mess to justify custom-cutting a diaper, but it can't hurt. I just have one handy and wipe up the small amount which may dribble out.

I am not familiar with that engine but I have had two boats with an upside down filter on the mains. In those cases there was a bolt that was loosened about 5 turns on the base that allowed the filter to drain down fully - a hole punched on the top would expedite the draining.

ChesapeakeGem said:

Great idea with the duck tape
And yet another item in our list to buy

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Yeah, duct tape is a must on a boat, for all kinds of reasons.

I like the idea of punching a hole in the filter and let it drain. Good suggestion.

Here's what we did
Punched a couple holes in that old filter, drained.
Wrapped a collar of oil absorbing rag around the base of the filter interface. Spun off old filter with a catch pan at the ready.
Quick as a hiccup [emoji4] removed the old inverted filter worked like a charm. Noted in the new Perkins oil filter, it showed a full level line around the filter housing. Poured in sufficient oil to satisfy that level. Which saturated the element. After a few minutes to let that settle. Quick as a hiccup inverted and spun in that new filter hand tight.
Removed oil absorbent collar, no problem our effort was a compilation of everyone's advice.
Thank you all

Now we have a fuel leak from that nut looking fitting with the paper towel underneath it, steady drip only while engine running.
Perkins T6.354

ChesapeakeGem said:

Great idea with the duck tape
And yet another item in our list to buy

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good grief!! You don't have "duck tape" on board

I have a similar arrangement and discovered after about my fourth oil change that the base that the filter screws onto actually has a drain plug. I made a heck of a mess with each of those changes but got progressively better at catching more and more of it using different techniques. For the 5th oil change I got the oil warm as I would for any change, opened the drain plugs, and let the filters drain into a small bucket that I placed beneath them. After that, removing the filters was completely mess free. I can't tell if your base has the same or a similar drain, but be sure to look for one. And yep, I felt like a dummy after finding the drains. Good luck!

GregBrannon said:

I have a similar arrangement and discovered after about my fourth oil change that the base that the filter screws onto actually has a drain plug. I made a heck of a mess with each of those changes but got progressively better at catching more and more of it using different techniques. For the 5th oil change I got the oil warm as I would for any change, opened the drain plugs, and let the filters drain into a small bucket that I placed beneath them. After that, removing the filters was completely mess free. I can't tell if your base has the same or a similar drain, but be sure to look for one. And yep, I felt like a dummy after finding the drains. Good luck!

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Our old Perkins had a little drain plug too. The rub is that when you spin it off without draining it seems like 5 quarts falls everywhere, but pull the drain plug and it only seems like a few tablespoons. Perception is an evil thing sometimes.

ChesapeakeGem said:

Now we have a fuel leak from that nut looking fitting with the paper towel underneath it, steady drip only while engine running.
Perkins T6.354

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While it's running, loosen the nut until lots of fuel leaks, then tighten. This will purge dirt out of the fitting if that is the issue.
I don't have the torque spec, but it should be followed so you don't distort the "olive" which is the British term for the part that actually seals.
The engine may skip once the nut is loosened, but it will run on all once it is retightened.

porman said:

Retired Porsche technician here. We had oil filters that were placed horizontally in the engine bay on air cooled cars and upside down on 944's. With the oil warm, we would punch one hole in the top of the filter and use a rubber tipped air nozzle to blow the oil out. Then a piece of duct tape on the hole and remove the filter. On the boat I use a 12 volt air compressor.

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Our Yanmar's have horizontal filters and next time I will drill a hole in the end at the top with my Dewalt and let it drain back into the engine....great idea the tape. For me that should make the ziplock bag I cram on the filter have less oil to catch.

Thanks for the tip!

Norm

I would simply purchase a remote filter kit for the engine and mount it where it "should" be to begin with. I recall some of the Deutz engines had upside down filters but they were few of the series. A remote filter kit is a part that screws where the filter goes onto the block, with two threaded holes for hoses, and then a flange mount filter carrier, and usually the oil rated hose and fittings with the kit.

jleonard said:

While it's running, loosen the nut until lots of fuel leaks, then tighten. This will purge dirt out of the fitting if that is the issue.

I don't have the torque spec, but it should be followed so you don't distort the "olive" which is the British term for the part that actually seals.

The engine may skip once the nut is loosened, but it will run on all once it is retightened.

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We will try that next weekend
Trying to get her ready for a five day
Cruise to bring her home

Watching my then mechanic, I learnt that 1) the oil drains easily,2) best way to remove filter is by using the punch thru screwdriver as a tool to spin it off.
I also keep handy disposable diapers and a plastic bag for the filter etc.
Most importantly ChesapeakeGem,you have a great looking Shepherd "on guard".

Filter came off just fine with strap wrench, Maggie is 15 months old she had her maiden voyage to the marina.