Splice for radar cord .

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Pack Mule

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Will one of those Euro connectors work for this mess ?
 

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It should. We used that type connector for our Furuno radar cable when we removed our mast for painting. With 24 wires, it was a bit of challenge but it worked. I used a ~4.5" by 6" weather proof box to protect the connections.
 

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Thanks Larry . I think I can handle that . My splice will be close to the monitor screen inside from the weather .
 
If the splice is permanent, just use crimp connectors. I would only use a terminal strip if you need to disconnect it for some reason, like pulling a mast on a sailboat.

David
 
Radar cables are often spiced, but on older sets, cable length can be critical..usually losing seveal feet was no big deal...but meters were..

I have used the euro connectors on all sorts of electronics with success.
 
The Euroconnectors have principle virtue of neatness and can be connected sequentially and deliberately whereas a cannon plug or crimps would be unwieldy and frustrating as all getout to do and if you make a mistake...
 
I suggest scotch connector inside a waterproof box... scotch connector have silicon inside and protect from corrosion, euroconector nope..
 
One thing I have learnt with marine cables is solder is your best friend

I'd have to agree with Gaston. Solder the connections with heat shrink over them and then again a large piece of heat shrink over the entire splice would be my preference.
 
It should. We used that type connector for our Furuno radar cable when we removed our mast for painting. With 24 wires, it was a bit of challenge but it worked. I used a ~4.5" by 6" weather proof box to protect the connections.
I found this at work today . We stripped down an old lumber X-ray scanner before scrapping it . It has about 8 more pins than I need. The others we had didn’t have enough pins . It has the euro connections. Do you think it will work for my radar cord ? I’m not sure how to handle the shields. The box is die cast and it would be inside the pilot house.
 

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That should work fine. It looks like the screw terminal version. There are also crimp pin versions which would mean getting the pins a and sockets and a proper crimper.

Take a look at the terminal block for the screws. Take a look at the screws to see if there is a pressure pad between the wire and the screw. For a bare wire there should be or the screw may damage the wire.

Spray the connections and the terminals with something like Corrosion X .

The sheilds can simply use one of the pins sets just like all the other wires.
 
Thanks C , I didn’t think about the pad under the screw for stranded wire or the pin sets for the shields. I’ll take the blocks apart and look today. It’s a little over kill but the cord locations and hole size are just right.
 
If you go ahead then ideally you would also find some wire end ferrules at the local electronics store. They simply slip over the conductor end and are then crimped. They grab solidly if crimped properly. The crimpers are not cheap although I have seen some decent looking ones for far less than I paid for mine. An inexpensive one should do well enough as you won't be using the thing a lot.
I used to do a lot of that stuff so have a good one. I do still use it.

Even without the crimper you can use them but just carefully insert into the screw terminal and the tighten. Not as good but should be good enough. Then give the terminals a shot of WD40 or Corrosion X or similar.

Ferrules Direct also has these things, ferrules and crimpers.

Ferrules - Wire Insulated Uninsulated Ferrule - Crimping Tools, Tool Calibration, European Specifications at Ferrules Direct
 
If you go ahead then ideally you would also find some wire end ferrules at the local electronics store. They simply slip over the conductor end and are then crimped. They grab solidly if crimped properly. The crimpers are not cheap although I have seen some decent looking ones for far less than I paid for mine. An inexpensive one should do well enough as you won't be using the thing a lot.
I used to do a lot of that stuff so have a good one. I do still use it.

Even without the crimper you can use them but just carefully insert into the screw terminal and the tighten. Not as good but should be good enough. Then give the terminals a shot of WD40 or Corrosion X or similar.

Ferrules Direct also has these things, ferrules and crimpers.

Ferrules - Wire Insulated Uninsulated Ferrule - Crimping Tools, Tool Calibration, European Specifications at Ferrules Direct
Thanks C . I checked this connector box out and it has the pads under the screws and also has a place for the grounds on the ends, so I think it will work good. I plan on hooking everything up this weekend. The box is kinda on the clunky side but William is a bit clunky as well.
 
If you go ahead then ideally you would also find some wire end ferrules at the local electronics store. They simply slip over the conductor end and are then crimped. They grab solidly if crimped properly. The crimpers are not cheap although I have seen some decent looking ones for far less than I paid for mine. An inexpensive one should do well enough as you won't be using the thing a lot.
I used to do a lot of that stuff so have a good one. I do still use it.

Even without the crimper you can use them but just carefully insert into the screw terminal and the tighten. Not as good but should be good enough. Then give the terminals a shot of WD40 or Corrosion X or similar.

Ferrules Direct also has these things, ferrules and crimpers.

Ferrules - Wire Insulated Uninsulated Ferrule - Crimping Tools, Tool Calibration, European Specifications at Ferrules Direct

These are great. I just bought from Digikey last week for a field job. Weidmuller makes a crimper that uses the same die for at least #24 to #16 wire.
 
Back in business. Thanks everyone.
 

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Good show.

I've used those connectors when/where I used to work. They make a huge range of plugs, crimp terminals. screw terminals. All are high quality connectors.
 

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