Stuffing Box Gland and Hose Maintenance

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jimL

jimL

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2015
Messages
358
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Lemon Drops
Vessel Make
2001 Grand Banks Europa 52
Hi,

About a year ago we purchased a 2015 Mainship 430 Aft Cabin Trawler with approximately 1500 hours.

We do not have complete maintenance records and do not know if the stuffing box gland was ever replaced. We adjusted the stuffing box tension several times over the summer and it continued to drip, more or less, but mostly more. Based on the looks of the clamps and hoses, I am thinking I need to replace the packing, as well as the hose and clamps.

Pics are located here:

http://s258.photobucket.com/user/la... 430 Aft Cabin Trawler/Port Stuffing.jpg.html

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/... 430 Aft Cabin Trawler/Starboard Stuffing.jpg

I have no experience in this, but believe I should and can do this before the boat goes in the water. When I search on YouTube, I have not found anything useful other than to replace the packing glands.

Does anyone have any tips, pics, or videos as to how to take this apart and change the packing gland the hoses as well?

I much appreciate any assistance.

Jim
 
Last edited:
Greetings,
I have no idea what the service life of the hose is but it looks fine to me. Replacement of the hose will require that you slide the shaft far enough aft to slide the new hose over the end of the shaft. This means removing the shaft from the coupling. As far as the packing goes, it's not a major undertaking to remove the old packing and replace with new and can be done with the prop shaft in place.
 
I agree that the hose clamps especially on the starboard side look rather bad and should be replaced. Hoses typically last 10-20 years and yours look fine. However, standard stuffing box stuffing should be redone every few years or when a little tightening no longer controls the dripping. ( it should drip underway but stop shortly after the boat is stopped) there are now stuffing box packing materials that last much longer than traditional flax packing.

When I was getting ready to do mine for the very first time I looked around on line and found a number of photos, tutorials and videos on how to do it. While the work can be done in the water, it's definitely easier the first time to do it on the hard so you can take your time.

If you simply do a web search titled "how to replace propeller shaft packing" you will get many good hits.

Ken
 
If your out of the water now you can remove all the old packing and install all new. If your in the water you can add more packing if there is still room in the housing. Maybe have the boat yard do it for you the first time while you watch, then your all set to do it in the future.
 
I like to wrap the new packing in a tight spiral around the shaft then cut it so that it forms individual rings. This is an easy way to get several rings the correct size.
 
You do know that it is required to drip don't you? Required!
 
GregS is correct. That box should be dripping 3 or 4 times per minute while turning. More won't hurt other than to make a mess. Less could cause shaft to run too hot and cause damage. It (stuffing box) should be slightly warm to the touch while running. If boat is new to you have the yard inspect / replace the packing while you watch. I would be very surprised if there was anything wrong with the hose or clamps.
 
Thanks everyone.

I do know that it's required to drip while underway. I have tightened it several times and I believe it's time to replace the gland while it's on the hard.

I'm asking for any tips on how to do this - just unbolt, pick the old gland out, repack with a new gland? What kind of surprises will I encounter?

Thanks,

Jim
 
Greetings,
Mr. j. I can't remember but there's a site with a wealth of information and one section deals with stuffing boxes... noonsite something or other. I'm positive another TF member can give you a link. My memory is going really fast...
 
jimL said:
Hi,

About a year ago we purchased a 2015 Mainship 430 Aft Cabin Trawler with approximately 1500 hours.

We do not have complete maintenance records and do not know if the stuffing box gland was ever replaced. We adjusted the stuffing box tension several times over the summer and it continued to drip, more or less, but mostly more. Based on the looks of the clamps and hoses, I am thinking I need to replace the packing, as well as the hose and clamps.

Pics are located here:

http://s258.photobucket.com/user/la... 430 Aft Cabin Trawler/Port Stuffing.jpg.html

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/... 430 Aft Cabin Trawler/Starboard Stuffing.jpg

I have no experience in this, but believe I should and can do this before the boat goes in the water. When I search on YouTube, I have not found anything useful other than to replace the packing glands.

Does anyone have any tips, pics, or videos as to how to take this apart and change the packing gland the hoses as well?

I much appreciate any assistance.

Jim
Click to expand...
Jim
I'm confused...
Mainship went bankrupt in 2012 (I'm not sure of exact date...+/-) wondering how you have a 2015? Do you have any history on the boat?
Also...I though late model yr MS all had dripless packing...my 2008 and at least a few others I know of did and believe it was std vs an option.
Just curious
 
sdowney717 said:
I use GFO marine packing. Really nice stuff. You can set it to not drip.
This packing, I put in at least 10 years ago. Color is black.
Won't get hot, wont score the prop shaft. Makes the gland style dripless without the trouble of installing a dripless seal.
https://www.emarineinc.com/categories/GFO-Marine-Shaft-Packing
Click to expand...

I'm glad to hear this is working for you since I just installed GFO in our stuffing boxes (but haven't floated her yet). Leaking stuffing boxes were the main source of water in our bilge; are yours totally dripless? One concern I've heard about GFO is that it can cause galvanic problems with the stainless drive shafts, etc. I'm guessing you've seen no evidence of that.
 
"You do know that it is required to drip don't you? Required!" with flac packing.

Perhaps 2-3 decades ago.

Today Duramax (among others) has replaced flax , tefflon , remote greasing systems and ceramic flanges that need to be water lubricated.
 
Correction, the Mainship is a 2005, not 2015.

Thanks Don.
 
Its time to pay a good pro to deal with your problem. If it turns out to be new clamps and packing watch as suggested above. Don't make a decision based on lack of experience or knowledge leave that for the Govt. in DC.
 
It's a simple job. Best tool for removing old packing is Palmetto 1101 Packing Extractor. $11 at Amazon. Once you get old packing out you can measure thickness and pick up new GFO packing at local marine supply.

Good idea to take a brass bristle wire brush to all bronze corrosion, especially screw threads. Will make it easier the next time you have to take it apart.
 
I would be inclined to fit a Deep Sea Seal.
It can be done in the water if you are mechanically minded and have someone to pass you the simple tools required.
I've fitted them on the last 2 boats and think they are brilliant, no drips and a simple periodic inspection is all they need.
 
If you are replacing the hose, check for wear marks on the shaft where the packing sealed. it may be worth using a slightly longer piece of hose so the packing seals on a smoother part of the shaft.
 
angus99 said:
I'm glad to hear this is working for you since I just installed GFO in our stuffing boxes (but haven't floated her yet). Leaking stuffing boxes were the main source of water in our bilge; are yours totally dripless? One concern I've heard about GFO is that it can cause galvanic problems with the stainless drive shafts, etc. I'm guessing you've seen no evidence of that.
Click to expand...

My prop shafts were already rough where the flax had sat on them. So at first they dripped a little, but after tightening couple of times, now they don't drip.

Can't say about corrosion as my prop shafts being so old were already corroded by the flax . Rudder shafts were fine. My feeling is prior owners when the flax leaked forcibly tightened the gland to the point they might have scored the shafts to try and stop the leak. I have read flax packing can score shafts.

I have never had to change any GFO packing since I put on about 10-12 years ago. I used on rudders and prop shafts. Seems to last forever to me.
 
Last edited:
sdowney717 said:
My prop shafts were already rough where the flax had sat on them. So at first they dripped a little, but after tightening couple of times, now they don't drip.

Can't say about corrosion as my prop shafts being so old were already corroded by the flax . Rudder shafts were fine. My feeling is prior owners when the flax leaked forcibly tightened the gland to the point they might have scored the shafts to try and stop the leak. I have read flax packing can score shafts.

I have never had to change any GFO packing since I put on about 10-12 years ago. I used on rudders and prop shafts. Seems to last forever to me.
Click to expand...

Wonderful! Thanks a lot.
 
sdowney717.
I had the same problem with my shaft being worn by enthusiastic over tightening (ex hire boat). Fortunately I was able to turn the shaft end over and consequently move the worn part (see Windmills And Wine thread at Dunkirk).
I fitted a Deep Sea Seal and we're now drip free with no wear on the shaft, I had one on my previous boat and never had any problems for years.
I hope this is helpful.
 
Irish Rambler said:
sdowney717.
I had the same problem with my shaft being worn by enthusiastic over tightening (ex hire boat). Fortunately I was able to turn the shaft end over and consequently move the worn part (see Windmills And Wine thread at Dunkirk).
I fitted a Deep Sea Seal and we're now drip free with no wear on the shaft, I had one on my previous boat and never had any problems for years.
I hope this is helpful.
Click to expand...

I cleaned up my shaft at a prior haul out when I replaced the strut bushings.
Still using the same packing.
A prior owner had a gigantic 3 foot pipe wrench laying in the bilge. He said he used that to tighten the gland nut. When I got the boat, water was spraying out. The guy was clueless regarding mechanical things. Did he know about the locking nut? Who knows.
 
GFO doesnt have to drip. Simple job just remove those two nuts slid off the packing plug ring pick out all the old packing clean everything with WD40 repack as Hop car said. Three or four rings what ever will fit. Not spiral but rings.
 
For folks with a scored or corroded shaft a longer or shorter hose will put the packing in a new spot.
 
bayview said:
For folks with a scored or corroded shaft a longer or shorter hose will put the packing in a new spot.
Click to expand...

I did this last spring and it works great.
 
Thanks everyone for the tips. I was able to take out the four rings on each shaft. Once I sprayed them with WD40, and used the previously referenced tool they came out easily. I have the GFO coming in the mail. Thanks for the tool tip.

I want to change the 12 yr old hose clamps. I currently have "Ideal Flex Gear HD, # 462" . I am having a challenge in finding them on line. kscdirect.com has them back ordered and I can't seem to find them anywhere else. Amazon has a Breeze product but not the right size.

Does anyone know where to find an adequate replacement item? I need eight of them. I want to change them before we splash in about a month.

Thanks,

JimL
 
Those clamps look similar to the clamps the trucking industry use?

Constant torque, little spring under the tightening nut?

Try the local NAPA or heavy truck supply house?

RB
 
I recommend you have the yard do this while you are on the hard. I had a mechanical seal fail while dockside, and was only alerted when the bilge pump started to run constantly. Very scary to wake up to.
 
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